[xj-s] fault Codes (FF44)

Hello I have gone mad and bought a V12 6L XJ-S 1993, It look
fab, however I have seen on the trip computer that FF44 fault
code. I think I know what it is, but I don’t know where it
lives in the engine bay. Can any one help? I have done a
search (on this site) but it did not show much, but could be
down to a bad earth (ground) wire. Many Thanks Phil–
w.a.s.p
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Hi Phil,

As you may already know, ff44 is a problem with the signal from the A
Bank (Right) O2 sensor. See 17.3-18 of the Jaguar Service Manual (JDHT
CD) for a checklist of possible causes. Those include loose/corroded
connections to the O2 sensor or the heater relay; exhaust/air leak in B
bank exhaust manifold; any other fault codes set?; 2nd fuel pump not
functioning properly; choked catalyst on that side – have you had any
A bank Marelli ignition problem where it just ran on B bank?

George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP-----Original Message-----
From: w.a.s.p irisphoto@hotmail.com

Hello I have gone mad and bought a V12 6L XJ-S 1993, It look
fab, however I have seen on the trip computer that FF44 fault
code. I think I know what it is, but I don’t know where it
lives in the engine bay. Can any one help? I have done a
search (on this site) but it did not show much, but could be
down to a bad earth (ground) wire. Many Thanks Phil


AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what’s free
from AOL at AOL.com.

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In reply to a message from w.a.s.p sent Sat 18 Aug 2007:

Congrats on buying a super car. As far as the fault code goes,
there is a chance that it is false. It seems that whenever I do
some work on my car, a code pops up. I clear the code (by
disconnecting the battery for a few minutes) and see if it
returns. If it is a real problem, it does. If it doesn’t, I
forget about it.

Replacing the O2 sensors is not a big job. You have three wire
sensors. You can either buy a driect replacement or a generic.
Being cheap, I use generic. If you do, you will have to splice the
connector from the old sensor to the new one. Not a big deal. You
will have two wires of one color and one of another. The two of
the same are for the heater, the odd wire is the acutal feed to the
computer. The colors may or may not match what you have.
Irrelecant. Connect the two of the same color to the two of the
same color on the new connector. Seal the connections. I use heat
shrink. I place a piece of large tubing over the cable, then a
piece of a smaller diameter over each individual wire. After
soldering, I slide each piece of small tubing over the joint and
shrink it. Then, I slide the large piece over the whole thing and
shrink it again. Of course, I may be a bit anal here.

You will find the sensor on the exhaust pipe just in front of the
front convertor. A trick that may be useful is to tie a ling piece
of string to the plug of the old sensor so that you can tie it to
the plug of the new sensor and pull it up.–
Maynard 94 XJS V12 Coupe 91XJS(RIP) 86XJ6 78MGB 67MGB
Niles, IL, United States
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w.a.s.p wrote:

Hello I have gone mad and bought a V12 6L XJ-S 1993…

Uhhhh, really?

– Kirbert

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In reply to a message from w.a.s.p sent Sat 18 Aug 2007:

I haven’t been hanging around her much in the last few years, but I
still have my 1994 6.0 XJS, and we’re both still kickin’. There is
a grounding issue that can (and usually) causes this. I believe
there was actually a recall on this issue as well, bottom line is
to do 2 things. Get some kind of wire (snall battery cable) and
attach one end to a bolt on the back of the intake manifold, and
the other end to the chassis somewhere that will give you a good
ground (I did it on both sides of the engine on my car). The second
place I added a ground was in the wiring harness that connects to
the oxygen sensors. I opened the harness cover, identified the
ground wire in those harnesses(both banks) and spliced a ground
wire (about 18 ga) into that harness and attached the other end to
a good chassis ground…Hope this helps. Sounds crazy, but adding
chassis to engine grounds is never a bad idea, and it usually fixes
this problem, assuming the o2 sensors are good.
Dave
1994 XJS 6.0LV12
18’’ XKR wheels, stainless headers, etc…–
The original message included these comments:

fab, however I have seen on the trip computer that FF44 fault


Penfold99
Atlanta, GA, United States
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In reply to a message from Penfold99 sent Wed 22 Aug 2007:

Hear! Hear! I’ll second that!

Adding the ground wire makes a difference for the 4.0 liter also.

There is a gound post on the left side of the firewall hiding under
an L-shaped black rubber cover. It is a simple matter to run a 18
gauge wire from there to a easy to reach bolt on the intake
manifold.

I have measured an improvement in gas mileage and smoother running
since I added the additional ground wire.

‘‘Towhook’’ from this Forum in his 12 Aug 06 post gave me the idea
for this fix.–
The original message included these comments:

to do 2 things. Get some kind of wire (snall battery cable) and
attach one end to a bolt on the back of the intake manifold, and
the other end to the chassis somewhere that will give you a good
ground (I did it on both sides of the engine on my car). The second


Paul Taylor 1993 4.0 XJS Convertible, San Diego
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In reply to a message from Paul Taylor sent Wed 22 Aug 2007:

Hello one, Sorted the FF44 problem , it was a rubber grommet,
cost 30 pence. and it sorted it out

Phil–
w.a.s.p
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Hi Phil, Where is this rubber grommet located and how did that solve your
problem?
Thanks, John

Hello one, Sorted the FF44 problem , it was a rubber grommet,
cost 30 pence. and it sorted it out

Phil

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In reply to a message from John Schmincke sent Wed 5 Sep 2007:

The gromment and its location is shown in Phil’s photo album.

Another case of finding the problem is the hardest part of the
repair!–
The original message included these comments:

Hi Phil, Where is this rubber grommet located and how did that solve your
problem?


Paul Taylor 1993 4.0 XJS Convertible, San Diego
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Thanks Paul. I wasn’t aware of his album but I’ll take a look. This is one
of those cases. I have FF44 showing for 4 years now on my 92 coupe. Replaced
everything just catching up with PO neglect. Car runs like the wind with no
felt qualms but continues to show FF44. I dusted a newer mustang a few weeks
back and I wasn’t really trying. I wanted his lane to make a turn up the
road a piece. It would be nice to have the computer cleared though.
John

In reply to a message from John Schmincke sent Wed 5 Sep 2007:

The gromment and its location is shown in Phil’s photo album.

Another case of finding the problem is the hardest part of the
repair!

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Hi Phil

I was reading an old post on the dreaded FF44 which has plagued me for many years. It has got to such a point that the car no longer passes emissions tests. In your post you say you replaced a gromet - would you mind saying where it was, I cant work out how to open your image folder.

http://www.jag-lovers.org/include/iv3.php3?zx=SdADygkIiM8ED8ZK%2FZfkxwPPEAObmMoFzgc41s28QAAWAYzY%2BzjUQULa1rsF2P4ArIvIGA5QRZTQ9znERT3cywhFxUhAzYvIGApHL9bZuwTdTDzH1vVF%2FDpAyc77RMVJNtaM%2BT0KRgudx88HxzsFnpjGQs8PBp%2BfEAvQCgCZnsdKzQz%2BlpbIBPj7CQ%3D%3D

I find that grommet unlikely as a solution. Mine has FF44 and I don’t care enough to fix it. Most people say ground issue.

My gromet is totally wrecked here. I’ve no idea what the pipe does - any ideas? I will also be looking at ground issues.

The pictured valve and hose let more air into the engine when the air conditioning Compressor is on. It keeps the idle up. If a leak around that valve from a worn grommet causes FF44, I’d be surprised. These can be weird cars though…

-John

I had chased an FF44 for years. Finally solved it when I fixed an exhaust leak.