[xj-s] Front Control Arm Bushings?

XJ-S
1

So it appears from what I have researched so far which has been
appreciable, but not exhaustive, is that for all practical
purposes, it is required to remove the front sub-frame assembly in
order to R&R the front control arm bushings?

A) If that is incorrect what is the procedure?

B) If that is correct…what is the procedure?

'88 XJ-S, LH Drive, V-12–
Waldo '88 XJ-S, '13 Chevy Cruz
Peoria, IL, United States
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2

So it appears from what I have researched so far which has been
appreciable, but not exhaustive, is that for all practical
purposes, it is required to remove the front sub-frame assembly in
order to R&R the front control arm bushings?

I think it can be done by just unbolting the subframe mounts and
lowering the rear end of the front subframe a bit. Otherwise the
shafts run into something as you drive them out. Perhaps someone can
confirm.

B) If that is correct…what is the procedure?

SOP is to beat on that shaft until your arm is tired, then beat on it
some more. This is probably a bad idea, as the beating probably
swells the shaft a bit and makes it even harder to remove. It’d
probably be a better idea to liberally apply Liquid Wrench and then
lightly tap it a zillion times to get it out.

I have often pondered whether there might be an easier way involving
cutting the shafts so you’re just driving out short pieces rather
than the long shaft. Obviously, this calls for new shafts. You
might be able to use generic shafts rather than Jaguar parts.

Whatever, make VERY sure to apply anti-seize compound to the shaft
and the ID of the bushings to make it easier to get apart NEXT time!

– Kirbert

// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 30 Jun 2015 at 12:49, TGWaldoP wrote:

3

In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Tue 30 Jun 2015:

On 3 occasions, I had no choice but to cut the shafts.

A SawzAll did it well, either side of the sub frame (2 cuts).

Then they pounded out, although sometimes heat is needed as well.

Shafts are available from the usuals.

I did them with sub frame removed from the car, so not sure if it
could be done swung down style.–
The original message included these comments:

I have often pondered whether there might be an easier way involving
cutting the shafts so you’re just driving out short pieces rather
than the long shaft. Obviously, this calls for new shafts. You

–
Robert Laughton www.leatheriquecanada.com 1999 Super 8
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4

In reply to a message from Robert Laughton sent Wed 1 Jul 2015:

I did this job on my car, and removed the subframe to do
it. It is not terribly difficult to drop the subframe: you
need engine support beams, and then you must disconnect the
steering from the rack, and disconnect the ground strap to
the engine, and the power steering lines to the pump. I
think those are the only items, but I’d review a Haynes or
the ROM to be sure. Of course, you need to remove the
bolts at the mounts, too. Then, it is simply a matter of
lowering the subframe on the jack you have under it to
support it when removing those bolts.

I would wager you will want to replace those mounts once
you’ve had a look at them.

I am evidently one of the few who did not have much trouble
removing those lower swing arm shafts. But I used liberal
amounts of PB Blaster on the bushing points for about two
weeks prior to removing. In my case, the bushings had all
but disintegrated on one of the arms. I replaced
everything in the front suspension with poly. If I were to
do it again, I would replace everything EXCEPT the lower
swing arm bushes with OEM rubber (my car is a convertible,
and the extra compliance is worth it). The lower bushes,
because they are such a bear to replace, I would do in poly
or delrin. In any case, a material that would offer much
greater durability. You don’t want to have to do this
twice.

You can do all the other mounts and bushes without removing
the subframe; but those lower swing arms require dropping
the subframe (there are those who only lower it enough to
get the swing arm shafts out, but, why? It is not that
much more difficult to take the whole subframe, and then
you can see what you are doing).

You will need a spring compressor, too. And be careful, as
those front springs can be lethal if not removed properly.

-M–
Mike, '90 5.3 XJS Conv., 5-spd+3.54, SE-ECU+TT F/R bars
Lakewood, OH, United States
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5

In reply to a message from TGWaldoP sent Tue 30 Jun 2015:

I was able to replace the bushings without dropping the
subframe. On the right side, I had to undo the engine mount
and raise the engine for clearance. On the left side, IIRC, I
had to remove the transmission pan. I’m probably leaving a
few things out, but it is possible. Remember that I have a 94
with the 6.0, your experience may differ.–
Maynard 94 XJS V12 Coupe 91XJS(RIP) 86XJ6 78MGB 67MGB
Palatine, IL, United States
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6

In reply to a message from Maynard sent Wed 1 Jul 2015:

Great info all! Appreciate it. This weekend I will pick up some
heavier duty jack stands (4 ton each) and take a look at the
clearance relative to the direction the shafts need to go, and
slather them with PB Blaster while I’m at it.

I’d like to drop the whole SF clean it up etc., just not made
of time you know!

I have paid particular attention to the spring compression
methods listed all over, and I think I’m leaning on the 4 long
threaded rods to compress the pan.

Also when my dad would use penetrating oils, he would rap the
joint or bolt head repeatedly with a small hammer, lightly (for
a hammer) and quickly like a drummer would for a drum-roll. He
said that allowed the oil to invade the joint more completely.
I don’t know if the physics would support this, but I do not
remember him ever having to cut off a shaft or a bolt!–
Waldo '88 XJ-S, '13 Chevy Cruz
Peoria, IL, United States
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7

In attempting to replace the lower control arm bushings on my 94 XJS vin# 189826 I find that there IS NO THROUGH BOLT. The factory apparently welded studs to the F&R of the subframe making it impossible to replace the bushings w/o cutting the studs off. Again, there is NO through bolt, nor was there any provision for one. It appears as though they would sell the subframe with the control arms attached. Anyone encountered this before?. Any help is appreciated.

8

So are you saying that your suspension does not look like this:

image
image2048×1536 216 KB

9

I’m sure this guy just unscrewed the bolt head from the fulcrum shaft and got confused. I was kinda surprised the first time the bolt head came off for me too and could see how it would look like two ends of studs.