Currently replacing front discs, pads, bearings etc etc.
The shafts are worn and I’m replacing them. Best means of
removal anyone?–
1991 Le Mans Coupe 5.3 V12
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In reply to a message from Leon sent Tue 12 May 2015:
Remove the lower shock bolt. That gets access to the
large nut on the back of the stub axle. Leave the nut on
the stub axle a few threads. The stub axle has a dimple in
the end of it. You’ll want to hit that. Hard. But
first, torque down the wheel bearing nut(bearings and
rotor still in place). Do NOT strip the threads on the
bearing nut.
What you are doing is applying a pulling force. Then when
you thump the back side of the axle, you break loose the
tapered fit. It works. You keep the inner nut on loosely
so the whole lot doesn’t come falling out.
Hope that helps–
The original message included these comments:
The shafts are worn and I’m replacing them. Best means of
removal anyone?
–
Stringbean- 94 XJS 4.0L convert BRG
Oklahoma, United States
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In reply to a message from Stringbean sent Tue 12 May 2015:
Excellent advice Stringbean. I didn’t even have to hit the
inboard end of the shafts, a few extra lb on that nut popped
them out a treat.
Once again, thanks for the tip.–
The original message included these comments:
What you are doing is applying a pulling force. Then when
you thump the back side of the axle, you break loose the
tapered fit. It works. You keep the inner nut on loosely
so the whole lot doesn’t come falling out.
–
1991 Le Mans Coupe 5.3 V12
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
// please trim quoted text to context only
I’ve been trying to get the stub axle out of 2 vertical links, and failed badly
the links are out of the car, as I got them second hand, but I used the same idea of loosening the big nut at the back, then tighten the bearing nut
loosening the nut went ok, using the impact wrench
but I used the impact on the bearing nut too, and strip the thread
I hoped it was just the nut, but the stub axle side is stripped too
no hammer hit managed to brake it loose, even after bashing the nut
on the other side, I only used a manual wrench to torque the bearing nut, but nut success either
I tried the press, but need to find a good way to apply the pressure, in order not yto damage the links (the stub axles have some marks, so wouldn’t be reusable imho
same for the bearing extractor I tried : no way of getting a good grip on the link
the hammer I used was about 1kg (2 pounds) , may it’s not enough to break the joint ?
I reckon my next (last ?) step is to find some way of holding safely the link so I can use a bigger hammer or the press
any suggestion welcome
Apply heat to the carrier while pressing with the press ram.
Your little baby Chinese shop press ain’t gonna be enough.
Where are the hub and bearings? I don’t see them in any pics.
I’ve removed the hub and bearings, no problem on this, they came out easily 
@John6 : I’m more afraid of braking / damaging the vertical link
@Robin_O_Connor : I’ll get a new gas heat gun , as I doubt my electric one will be man enough to heat the whole part
(the old one started leaking close to the handle, and I feared the gas can could blow on my face, so I binned it
That looks similar to the one that I used to remove my 50+ year old stub axles from my ‘S’ carriers
do you remember how you blocked the links on the press ?
they 're on a slight angle and I didn’t want to press on and have them move sideways or break
Afraid I can’t remember now.
the little press did it without much agro
I just put the links as flat as I could, the put some pressure up to about 4 tons, and waited 10 to 15 seconds
first one popped faster, maybe because I used a torch to heat the link beforehand
I left some corrosion remover soak the joints for 2 days, from each side : this could have helped a bit, but the axles showed no corrosion and the product only could get into the joint about 1/2 cm
one of the axles is definitely busted : the big bearing has grooved the axle on one side, and the small bearing on the opposite side
the second one is marked, but you can’t catch the mark with your nail
the vertical links have slightly different shape, one has the ring to fit the hub cap water shield, which isn’t on the second one
the markings give the answer
CCC6843 F.3 A360 is from a 1993-96 XJS left side
CBC1736F 2 A745 is from the earlier (91 to 93) XJS right side
So that would imply that this wear has happened before and a PO went the complete upright replacement. Just make sure the bearings are a nice fit on the new stub axles.
I’ve seen the “reinforcement kit” from SNG :
https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/English/parts/f4693fe2-ad9d-4730-ae2d-e7a13111fc8a
which could be a solution to sort the damaged axle without replacement
but never seen any “real life” feedback about it
Neat! So I guess you choose shims and then tighten the adjusting nut three grunts. The tight stack prevents either bearing race from rotating or otherwise wiggling around.
I’d be tempted to use that with a new stub axle. It should prevent it from wearing, as it’ll prevent the inner race from spinning.
That kit converts the car to what my mind would call “MGB” style. You can’t three grunt an MGB or you’ll be looking for a new stub axle shortly. What it does let you do is set the end float very precisely. Looks very expensive. Jaguar rear axle accomplished the same thing with a cheap crush sleeve… I guess the distance is too great for such an idea.
[quote=“Kirbert, post:15, topic:347292”]
I’d be tempted to use that with a new stub axle. It should prevent it from wearing, as it’ll prevent the inner race from spinning. [/quote]
that’s what I had in mind,
indeed : and I’m windering if the kit if for one side or both it states “Full axle kit enough for both sides.”, but only shows the bits fonr one
I reckon the expensive bits are the spacers, as most other parts are quite cheap
just wondering how this kit "prevent brake pad ‘knock back’ leading to a more responsive brake pedal "
Well, presuming your inner races are flopping around in there without it, it would presumably result in reduced brake pedal travel. Whether it’s a noticeable difference compared to properly adjusted wheel bearings, I dunno.
Another question is whether it would result in a significantly stiffer stub axle. I seem to recall some claims that the stub axle can actually flex under stress, also knocking the pads back a bit. Will this sleeve stiffen it up? No doubt. Significantly? Unknown.
I’ve replaced a few XJ front bearing sets and not come across this problem. I can only imagine that it is a result of not checking the bearing regularly for end float and cinching it up when necessary. The MOT test in the UK will check wheel bearings every 12 months, is that not something that is part of mandated safety checks elsewhere in the world?
I don’t know : my car came (back) from Japan
the French MOT is every 2 years, and should detect abnormal play in the bearings
