In reply to a message from nwmgnt2011 sent Sun 11 Dec 2011:
Have you tested the dash gauge by wiring up the new sender,
without refitting it, and moving the arm to see how the dash
gauge responds?
This test will definitively show whether it is a guage
problem of a sender problem.
The wiring on the sender is as follows, on my car at least:
(1) Brown/Pink wire which provides a ground to the low fuel
warning light on the dash when the tank level is less than ~
2 gallons. You can test proper operation of that warning
light by grounding the Brown/Pink wire with the ignition
switch in the run position.
(2) Light Green/Orange wire which provides a variable ground
to the fuel level gauge, depending upon sender float level;
if you remove this wire from the sender and apply a ground
to it with the ignition switch in the run position, the fuel
level gauge should go to full. If it does, the problem is in
the sender. If it does NOT, then the problem
is in the gauge or its wiring.
From memory, the wires go onto the sender with the warning
light wire at about 3 o closk
The level sender at about 9 o clock, and the earth wire
(black) to the uninsulated terminal welded to the sender
body, also about 9 o clock or nearly so.
In the tank yuo have to poke the sender arm in horizontally,
supporting it a bit with your finger, and the arm will then
drop down into a circular-shaped baffled. If you shine a
torch into the hole you can see all this easily.
Greg–
The original message included these comments:
Fuel gauge firstly read 1/4 all the time…so ordered new
sender…now reads zero…all the time grounded instrument
cluster…I think when inserting the fuel sender there were
a lot of baffles…or compartments does anyone know how the
sender is placed in the tank correctly…
–
UK spec 1985 XJS V12 HE
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