Checked the GB wire, and it does seem to have a good ground.
However, it seems to be a ground whether or not the car is in P/N.
Gee, that doesn’t seem right. Maybe I should get off my a$$ and dig
up the wiring diagrams so I can be of more help here – but I’m not
at home right now so I can’t.
Kirbert, I’m not sure I understand… I’ve checked, and the
Red/White isn’t providing any voltage. If I short the hot post to
the R/W, the starter does engage. Wouldn’t that show I’ve got a
That shows that the STARTER has a good ground. It doesn’t say
anything about whether the starter relay coil has a good ground –
provided you and I are thinking the same thing about which wires
we’re talking about and what you’re doing with them.
To review: There are two wires on the starter relay that are bigger
than the others. One of these big wires is brown, meaning it is
connected directly to the battery – there aren’t even any fuses in
that circuit. The other big wire goes to the starter, and I believe
that’s the WR wire we’re talking about. If you connect those two
together, you completely omit the starter relay (and everything else
in the starting circuit) from consideration. If the starter works,
you have proven you have a good starter. Nothing else.
To get the starter relay to work, you must have 3 things:
12V to one side of the relay coil
ground to the other side of the relay coil
the starter relay itself must be functional
None of the three questions are trivial. The 12V must come from a
post on the firewall to the ignition switch (which is always flaky)
to here. I’m not sure if there are other things involved, but there
are often problems here.
The ground involves another relay, the impact switch, and I think
the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (I know it’s involved, I’m just not
sure it’s here). Making sure each of these things is working
properly is simply a matter of chugging through it.
The starter relay itself is an unreliable item, and it often gets
intermittent before it fails altogether. The Lucas part is
expensive, I recommend replacing with a Chrysler starter relay which
is electrically identical but a lot cheaper, cheap enough you could
arguably just replace it as a test to see what happens.
It often is very helpful to isolate a problem to one of these three
areas. For example, if you install a jumper to provide a direct
ground and it starts working, you know the starter relay itself and
the 12V circuit are good, your problem is in the ground circuit. If
you provide 12V directly to the relay coil (there’s 12V right next to
it on the big brown wire, remember) and the starter engages, you know
the starter relay and the ground circuit is OK and there’s a problem
getting 12V through the ignition switch to the starter relay. Either
of these is a big step towards isolating the problem.
Also, are you saying that the driver’s side door impact switch has
a cutoff to it, so the car won’t start when the door’s open?
No, the car won’t start when the impact switch has been tripped. It
just happens to be located right next to the driver’s side door. You
bump it with your foot when getting in. The little button sticking
out the bottom must be up for the starter to work.
know that there is an issue somewhere over there, as cabin lights
don’t come on. Should I resolve that issue first?
Cabin lights are a completely different issue – unless the problem
happens to be a major disconnection of 12V power from a post on the
firewall that has taken both circuits out at once.
// please trim quoted text to context only