[xj-s] RE: Reasonable Cost of a Brake Repair (RESOLVED)

Many thanks to all of you for your advice on this
brake repair, including suggestions that I should
try it myself!
I was on the verge of attempting the front brakes
but found someone who would do the front pads and
rotors (not genuine Jaguar parts of course). As his wife
has an identical car to mine, and he has kept it running
for many years, it looked like a good deal.
Since the scoring on the rear rotor was not too
serious, we decided to just replace the pads. (I know
I will get TONS of criticism for that decision, but I’m
braced for it…:slight_smile:
He charged $250 for everything and the brakes
seem perfect. Whether the decision not to replace the
rear rotor will come back to haunt me, I don’t know, but
I’m prepared to deal with it if it does.
Again, thank you all. As always, I have archived all
your replies for future reference.
1989 1/4 XJS

Apparently I have had a frozen caliper on one of my rear brakes. This caused premature
wearing of the pads and subsequent scoring of the rotor.
The cost of replacing the caliper, pads and rotor was estimated today at $560. Can anyone
tell me if this seems like a reasonable price? (I have chosen not to do this work myself.)
I asked for an estimate to re-do the front brakes also, and the figure (new pads and rotors on
both wheels, no calipers) was $380. Reasonable?
If these figures do seem reasonable, can someone explain the following: 2 sets of pads and
2 rotors cost $190 X 2 on the front wheels. On that basis, one set of pads and one rotor on a single
rear wheel ought to cost roughly $190 plus the cost of the caliper. Don’t know the cost of the
caliper, but even if it’s $200, we’re still only up to $390.
Is the rest explainable by the additional difficulty in accessing the rear brakes?
As usual, help much appreciated! Thank you!

   1989 Pre-Marelli XJS


The guy that helped you out with your brakes … did he mention whether or not the caliper was sticking? From the price he charged, I have to assume that the rear caliper(s) were not replaced. Simply opening the bleed valve and pressing the piston back in is only going to allow new pads to be fitted, but the problem remains.

I’m not sure how to check if a caliper is “dragging” by just driving the car, but if you lift and support the rear (properly), get underneath the rear of the car and look for yourself to see if it’s not releasing. Have an assistant step on the brakes and then release. You might need to rotate the tire in order to free the caliper (hey, it happens), but that wouldn’t necessarily point to a sticking caliper. Basically, the difference between the calipers in a stopping position and relaxed position is only about an 1/8 of an inch.

Anyway, if it’s still dragging, expect to change pads quite often on that side and visit the gas pumps a little more often also.

Good luck,
John Wynne
89 XJ-S
Sterling, CT

P.S. Did the guy flush out ALL of the old brake fluid and replace it with the correct new fluid? Really need to do it otherwise …