My driver side rear caliper just started to leak last couple of
days…unfortunetly I’m currently 200 miles away from my trusty
jag mechanic…Pls HELP!..as I had to park her outside last few
days at my friend’s house in the cold/rain and lost almost half of
my brake fluid in the resevior cup overnight!..however I’ve been
just topping it off as necessary and also noticed the car will not
loose any brake fluid if I keep the rear brake seals warm by
driving her…rear brake caliper will only start leaking after
being parked for 3-4 hrs…now my question…is there a quick
roadside fix to shut down just ‘‘one’’ rear caliper until I get her
back to the hood??–
Lead
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In reply to a message from Lead sent Tue 27 Feb 2007:
I wouldn’t recommend driving 200 miles without the rear
brakes. I’ve done this for a much shorter distance and it is
extremely dangerous. On the highway the brakes have to be
applied very gently and the stopping distance is much
longer. A successful panic stop is probably impossible.
You said that the car does not lose brake fluid when it is
driven. So why not top up the reservoir and drive back
carefully, with frequent checks on the fluid level?
Remember that you now have air in the system and the brakes
will not be as effective.–
The original message included these comments:
My driver side rear caliper just started to leak last couple of
days…unfortunetly I’m currently 200 miles away from my trusty
jag mechanic…Pls HELP!..as I had to park her outside last few
days at my friend’s house in the cold/rain and lost almost half of
my brake fluid in the resevior cup overnight!..however I’ve been
just topping it off as necessary and also noticed the car will not
loose any brake fluid if I keep the rear brake seals warm by
driving her…rear brake caliper will only start leaking after
being parked for 3-4 hrs…now my question…is there a quick
roadside fix to shut down just ‘‘one’’ rear caliper until I get her
back to the hood??
In reply to a message from JDiii sent Wed 28 Feb 2007:
JD…thanks for your input…Yea you’re right…too dangerous to
mess with…I better just nurse her back home carefully…–
Lead
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In reply to a message from Lead sent Wed 28 Feb 2007:
Just R&R both my rear inboard brake calipers, rotors, pads and e-
brake system…wow…what a difference in braking
feel/performance…also as a bonus…my braking shimmy at 50-40mph
is completely gone…also we wraped the exhaust pipes near the rear
calipers with header heat wraps to help lower the heating near the
calipers…we hope this mod will extend the life of the new caliper
seals…–
Lead
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In reply to a message from Lead sent Wed 14 Mar 2007:
Lead:
I don’t read this forum often. I was referred to this post by
another lister. The subject of rear brakes was the subject and the
difficulty in servicing the inboard units.
I was under my car abut a week ago introducing it to a foreigh
substance, grease in the zerks fittings! I also tied to have a look
at my calipers and pads. ???
While my car is an 83 XJ6, the procedure is probably similar.
Do you have a narrative and pictures?
I am sure the XJ6 and lump forums are very interested in your
experience.
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
Just R&R both my rear inboard brake calipers, rotors, pads and e-
brake system…wow…what a difference in braking
feel/performance…also as a bonus…my braking shimmy at 50-40mph
is completely gone…also we wraped the exhaust pipes near the rear
calipers with header heat wraps to help lower the heating near the
calipers…we hope this mod will extend the life of the new caliper
seals…
In reply to a message from cadjag sent Thu 15 Mar 2007:
Carl…I’d love to contribute more data here but it was my trusty
mechanic who put in all the wrench time…I only stopped in to
check on things and to bring him more beers…=) However…I do
know that he did it the traditional way by disconnecting the
exhausts then ‘‘dropping’’ the complete IRS from my car…So no
special tricks here…for new parts we decided on installing
stainless steel type cylinders into the new calipers…and
replacement rotors were again solid brembos…unfortunetely I have
no photos of the excercise as it was rushed job…I needed it her
fixed fast…as this car is currently my only daily driver.
In reply to a message from Lead sent Thu 15 Mar 2007:
Lead:
Thanks for the prompt response. One or two of us were hoping you
had a better way. but, It seems that the ‘‘drop the IRS’’ is the most
popular and probably the most efficient.
We have a detailed and illustrated descrition on the XJ6 forum of
the ‘‘drop the IRS’’ protocol thanks to prolific poster, Alex!
But, I see the infinite wisdom of using top quality parts to
postpone the next time. Good cold beers included!
Thanks again
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
Carl…I’d love to contribute more data here but it was my trusty
mechanic who put in all the wrench time…I only stopped in to
check on things and to bring him more beers…=) However…I do
know that he did it the traditional way by disconnecting the
exhausts then ‘‘dropping’’ the complete IRS from my car…So no
special tricks here…for new parts we decided on installing
stainless steel type cylinders into the new calipers…and
replacement rotors were again solid brembos…unfortunetely I have
no photos of the excercise as it was rushed job…I needed it her
fixed fast…as this car is currently my only daily driver.
The following is a post by Dick Maury of Coventry West from several
years ago, describing how to remove the calipers on a lift:
There seems to be a lot of differing opinions on replacing rear
calipers. As a line mechanic of 30 years, we only charged 1 hour
per caliper. It usually did not take an hour. Just remove the
handbrake cable, unscrew the two handbrake bolts ( you will have to
pry back the lockplates) and push the handbrakes up on top of the
rotor. Unscrew the brake line, bend it slightly out of the way and
plug it with a rubber plug. Using a long 5/8 wrench open ind from
the bottom, loosen the lower bolt. Using the box end, loosen the
top. From here a set of short wrenches come in handy to loosen the
bolts. If you are lucky the top one is loose enough to turn with
your fingers. Once unscrewed, they will not come out of the caliper
but the whole caliper is lifted out. Replacement is reverse except
a long screwdriver to hold the bolts in place until started helps.
Make sure the handbrake screws are through the handbrake. Removing
them and putting a small taper on them helps. If the rotors need
changing, do this while the calipers are out. Remove one shock to
gain access to the 4 axle bolts. Remove the lower trunion grease
fitting and the trailing arm front mount. Lower the arm down,
axle,trailing arm and hub as a unit. Then the disc can be taken
out. Pay attention to the shims and put them back where they were
unless you need to adjust camber. The holes mentioned on the rotors
are for access to the caliper bolts on the ‘‘Dana’’ diffs which were
put in the XJS for part of the 1985 model year. They redundant on
the Salisbury diffs. Note that the bottom plate does not have to be
removed. It will be dented slightly when the lower arm is swung
down but can be easily be tapped back into place. I have found on
working on cars that if you remove a bolt, you will need to put it
back so I try to keep it to a mininum.
George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP-----Original Message-----
From: carl.hutchins1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks for the prompt response. One or two of us were hoping you
had a better way. but, It seems that the ‘‘drop the IRS’’ is the most
popular and probably the most efficient.
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what’s free
from AOL at AOL.com.
This all makes perfect sense, but, having been thru this job 3 or 4 times, I
can say there are some variables…even if just luck of the draw or
frustration level
I wouldn’t want a tyro thinking he can replace two calipers in two hours. I
just don’t think that’s very likely !
Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJR
There seems to be a lot of differing opinions on replacing rear
calipers. As a line mechanic of 30 years, we only charged 1 hour
per caliper. It usually did not take an hour.
In reply to a message from Doug Dwyer sent Fri 16 Mar 2007:
It was exactly for those ‘‘variables’’ why we choose to drop
her IRS…BTW…very nice in-house jaguar service department
DD!..i wish mine was that swank!..oh well back to the salt
mines…=P–
Lead
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In reply to a message from Doug Dwyer sent Fri 16 Mar 2007:
HI Doug, just had an XJ6 come in last week after lunch where the
brake flex hose had developed hardening of the arteries. The brakes
were smoking, the caliper seals were crispy they were so hot. I let
it cool off and replaced both calipers, pads, bleed the brakes and
hooked back up the handbrakes before I left at 5:00. I did not
really watch the clock but I know that I did not get started until
around 3:00 as the car did not get there until 1:00 and was very
hot when it got there. I could have probably done it faster if it
was cooler. Two hours is very realistic if you have the use of a
lift.–
The original message included these comments:
This all makes perfect sense, but, having been thru this job 3 or 4 times, I
can say there are some variables…even if just luck of the draw or
frustration level
I wouldn’t want a tyro thinking he can replace two calipers in two hours. I
just don’t think that’s very likely !
Doug Dwyer
