[xj-s] Rear window prob.SOLVED heres the dealnow to reassemble

Well Gents I tracked it down,HEE HEE (I’M Happy)was pissed for a
while.I used a multimeter and pulled the first two and last two
relays wich are the four that contropl the windows.The relay bases
have 5 spade terminals the center is the ground blk term.The
terminal toward the center or inside on ea is 87 the one closet to
the front of car on ea is the 85 according to relays. If you touch
the blk multimeter lead to center and red lead to either of the
other two 85 or 87 you should get 12v even with your ignition
switched off.I checked all four relays and had 12v at both pins on
all four relays so I knew I had 12v to that point.Next I
diconnected ea thermal breaker and hooked one multimeter lead to ea
wire it doesnt matter wichh one you hook to Hit the top switch up
and then down and at the exact time the windows are supposed to go
up & down you will get twelve volts for a few seconds long enough
for window to get up or down,This let me know the ecm or computer
that controls the windows and top was working an that I had 12v At
ea breaker connection.Next I switched breakers from side to side
but still no power to right side motor.Now I unplug the gr gw wires
were the motor plugs to the harness 5 or 6 inches from the motor at
this point when I hooked multim leads to ea wire and operated the
top I was only getting 2.5-4 vlts when the ECM relayed the power I
chcked the other side that was working and I had 12 volts when top
went up and down.So I knew I had power to relays to the thermal
breaker but not at motor connection.I unplugged the big blk round
connector that joins the power supply from batery to harnes and
cleaned it with battery term cleaner in spray can the scraped ea
terminal with tiny screwdriver and sprayed once again with electric
motor cleaner put GB Ox-gaurd (corrosion inhibitor and increases
conductivity) on ea probe and reconnected large blk connector with
the 6 main pwr wires.Next I unplugged the small black square
looking connector that joins the ecm to the wires going to the
switch on the ski slope these wer really bad cleaned them ox-
gaurded and reconnected,and Bingo,When I checked the volts at the
wires from harness to the motor that wouldn,t work I now had 12
volts connected the wires tried the hood switch and BOTH windows
work beautifuuly.I hope this helps Note Iremoved my rear stowage
compartment wich made gettinto these two connectors that sit
behind the top pump acessable.I hope this helps.The two connectors
I cleaned are bothe behind the pump motor within a few inches od ea
other.Hope this helps obviously the corrode terminals were keeping
me from geting the 12vlts from the relay harness to the motor
connection point that was my problem and could be yours, hope this
helps.Now to reassemble and go for late Sunday enening Top down
drive.–
T Boy
Raleigh NC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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In reply to a message from T Boy sent Sun 25 Mar 2007:

Sorry about all of the mispelled words I should have proof read
before posting, not very good at typing.Hope you got the jist of
it,if not email me at my adress.–
T Boy
Raleigh NC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

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In reply to a message from T Boy sent Sun 25 Mar 2007:

my rear window problem went away also. as it turns out, my battery
had a bad cell and apparently was causing my passenger rear window
to stay in the down position even when the top came up. new
battery fixed the problem. thank you to everyone for all the
help. I finally got the hood tightened up after I bought a new
hood release mechanism on ebay and rewired the drivers side. the
ebay seller was reading about my problem on the jag-lovers site and
contacted me.–
chickenbob
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

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