In reply to a message from George Camp sent Wed 5 Feb 2014:
George,
Did you remove the rotor retaining screw? I’ve forgotten to
do that once. The rotors wouldn’t budge until I realized that
I missed that screw. If you did remove it and they still
won’t budge I don’t know what to tell you. They usually come
of pretty easily once released.–
The original message included these comments:
Anyone have a successful method of removing a couple of
these to replace the parking shoes? They have been soaked-
hammered with a 5 lb brass hammer from every angle etc. etc.
The rotors are good (well the brake portion–not sure what
the park brake area looks like) and I had considered a
puller and the possibility of destroying the rotors–but my
thought is I would still have most stuck. Oh yes the smoke
wrench was used with liberal application–still no joy.
Thanks in advance for any successful experiences. Starting
to consider putting the brakes back on with loose bolts and
loose wheel nuts and driving–thoughts on that?
In reply to a message from JagsinVT sent Wed 5 Feb 2014:
Screws out–workshop manual followed–just stuck! Thanks–
The original message included these comments:
do that once. The rotors wouldn’t budge until I realized that
I missed that screw. If you did remove it and they still
won’t budge I don’t know what to tell you. They usually come
of pretty easily once released.
In reply to a message from George Camp sent Wed 5 Feb 2014:
George, if you were able to strike the disc while it was
under tension it might spring off. To put it under tension
is the issue. Maybe some kind of bar or plate across the
center of the hub and drilled to take a fat length of stud
each end, that could be bent to grip behind the disc and
tightened through the cross beam?
Getting slightly wilder, since the rotors are the low point
on an outboard IRS, could you put some kind of expander
across the underneath to push one disc outwards against the
other? Building props don’t usually lie around a mechanic’s
shop but a jack and some lumber might serve? Try pushing
out at three point on the circumference in turn, turning
the LSD-linked hubs each time? I’d put a couple of nuts on
each in case they flew off (yeah, I know, you’d LOVE to
have that problem right now!
Even once the discs are jarred free they can often hang up
on the handbrake shoes, which you may need to back way
further than you think - at least that was my experience on
an X300 and X308.
In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Thu 6 Feb 2014:
Thanks to all for your help and suggestions. All of you who
know me know I followed the WSM. The issue was they were
just frozen to the hub. One smoke wrench was not enough so
I put three torches on the hub and got it very hot while
wailing away with a 5 lb bronze hammer. Of course once it
freed up it was a slip off. I can only think that a very
strong wheel cleaner had been used for years. Again thanks!–
The original message included these comments:
George, if you were able to strike the disc while it was
under tension it might spring off. To put it under tension
is the issue. Maybe some kind of bar or plate across the
center of the hub and drilled to take a fat length of stud
each end, that could be bent to grip behind the disc and
tightened through the cross beam?
In reply to a message from JagsinVT sent Wed 5 Feb 2014:
I have found that you just may need to keep hitting it all the
way around from the face only until it brakes loose. Perhaps
your not hitting it hard enough and overly concerned about
damage to the rotors.–
car-storage
Columbia, SC, United States
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