Well, as I continue to sort this car out, the right rear
caliper is defiantly sticking. I pushed the pads away from
the rotor, and the rear wheels turn freely. Put the brakes
on one time, and the resistance is fully back.
Does the ABS apply any pressure when not pressing the brake?
When my e-Type had a sticking caliper, replacing the rubber
lines cured it. This seems a whole 'nuther beast.–
89 XJS convertible Marelli ignition
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// please trim quoted text to context only
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
2
Well, as I continue to sort this car out, the right rear
caliper is defiantly sticking. I pushed the pads away from
the rotor, and the rear wheels turn freely. Put the brakes
on one time, and the resistance is fully back.
You MIGHT try replacing the flexible hose to the rear brakes. A
defective hose has been known to hold the brakes engaged – although
I dunno about holding just ONE engaged.
Does the ABS apply any pressure when not pressing the brake?
No – unless something is defective, and in your case clearly
SOMETHING is defective. Seems far more likely to be the caliper
itself than the ABS system, though.
When my e-Type had a sticking caliper, replacing the rubber
lines cured it. This seems a whole 'nuther beast.
Your car has inboard rear brakes, does it not? I think those are
very similar to the rear brakes on your E-type!
– Kirbert
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 17 Nov 2013 at 12:35, Gene Holtzclaw wrote:
In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Mon 18 Nov 2013:
After thinking it through, seems if
it were the hose, I should be able
to open the bleeder and the caliper
would release. On my e, it was one
of the front hoses.
On this car, the left rear isn’t
sticking, so it does make me doubt
that the hose is bad. Yet, it
didn’t take much effort at all to
pry the pad away from the rotor.–
89 XJS convertible Marelli ignition
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Mon 18 Nov 2013:
from what I read, those pistons in calipers seem to be
sticky. could be gunk/seals etc and the heat back there and
dust grime can do this.
i guess my first question, is are you losing any brake fluid?
i had a leaking caliper back there, but I had to drop the
whole suspension rear to change that out.–
1990 Jag XJS 5.3L v12 Coupe
baltimore, United States
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In reply to a message from nwmgnt2011 sent Tue 19 Nov 2013:
Neither caliper appears to be leaking. But from what I know,
the only way to get them off is to drop the rear suspension?
If I have to do that, then new axle seals, shocks, rotors,
u-joints? You get the idea. I just know its tight, and would
love to just rebuild the calipers for now if I can get away
with it.–
89 XJS convertible Marelli ignition
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Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
6
Neither caliper appears to be leaking. But from what I know,
the only way to get them off is to drop the rear suspension?
If I have to do that, then new axle seals, shocks, rotors,
u-joints? You get the idea. I just know its tight, and would
love to just rebuild the calipers for now if I can get away
with it.
Everybody who has done it will agree: The easiest way to “just
rebuild the calipers for now” would be to drop the subframe. Really.
It’s your decision whether you wanna do all that other stuff (and,
seriously, if you’re gonna replace the rotors, you should upgrade to
vented rotors), but dropping the subframe is easier than you think,
far easier than trying to get the handbrake calipers back together
with the subframe in place.
– Kirbert
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 19 Nov 2013 at 19:23, Gene Holtzclaw wrote:
In reply to a message from mike90 sent Wed 20 Nov 2013:
Gene, this is definitely one of those jobs that will result
in ‘‘project creep’’. Before you commit to any serious dis-assembly,
try bleeding a can of fresh fluid through that caliper. Also, work
the piston in and out with the fresh fluid a few times. It may not
work, but I guarantee it will be worth it on the chance you can
avoid breaking the rear end apart.
The rear suspension and subrame is loaded with bearings and
bushings that work just fine, if you don’t look at them. But as
soon as you break them apart and take a close look, you will not
want to reassemble without replacing most of them. Plus, I bet
there is 100% chance one of your rear hubs is cracked through the
lower web…it’ll be fine, if you don’t look at it. If you get
under there, you will look at it and want to replace it too.–
John. '95 XJS 6.0L convertible. Southlake, TX
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In reply to a message from CJ95 sent Wed 20 Nov 2013:
I’ve done the rear suspension thing twice. Once on my first
XJS, a 79 that had bad carrier bearings from lack of lube,
and my 71 V12 XKE that turned into complete shipwrights.
Drilled and slotted rotors, but not vented. Disassembled
literally every component. Bearings, seals, shocks,
u-joints, yada yada yada. For some reason I wanted the E to
look good in places nobody looked except me, but on this car
I am looking for function over flash. Both rotors are pretty
grooved, so at a minimum I would replace those. I don’t see
any evidence of leaking, but then again I haven’t checked
the fluid level yet.–
89 XJS convertible Marelli ignition
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Wed 20 Nov 2013:
after dropping rear suspension, I had 2 main issues.
(1) getting rotors off was not easy as it would spin and i
could not get any leverage on the main bolts
(2) the parking brake was a nightmare for me, I still dont
have it right and I left it disconnected on reassembly
once rear suspension is out calipers, pads are
straightforward…–
1990 Jag XJS 5.3L v12 Coupe
baltimore, United States
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Wed 20 Nov 2013:
Gene:
I think most aftermarket rotors for the XJS are like this, but,
make sure your replacement rotors have two access holes in the
hub. The OEM rotors on my car did not have these, and that makes
things more difficult.
The access holes make the job of servicing MUCH easier.
In reply to a message from mike90 sent Mon 25 Nov 2013:
So in the opinion of those who know, am I better off to plan to
remove the suspension, or does it matter? I know its going to be a
pain either way. I’ve read the ROM, and it looks pretty straight
forward to do this in car. I just don’t understand removing the
trailing arm part. The lower plate I get, but why the trailing arm?–
89 XJS convertible Marelli ignition
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Mon 25 Nov 2013:
Gene:
Never done this in the car- the thought of doing it this way makes
me shudder (unless the car is way up on a lift). And you thought
getting the seat back in was fun!
I am guessing that the trailing arms have to come off to get
adequate swing on the half shafts to be able to pull the disks.
You’ve been there before, so I think you have a good idea of which
poison to pick, here, regarding dropping the cage and doing the job
with the cage in.–
Mike, 1990 5.3 XJS Conv., 5-speed, SE-ECU, TT Extractors
Lakewood, OH, United States
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Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
14
I am guessing that the trailing arms have to come off to get
adequate swing on the half shafts to be able to pull the disks.
You will need to disconnect the trailing arms to get the subframe
out, as they connect the suspension to the body. However, you can
opt to disconnect them at either end. If you disconnect them at the
suspension end, they’re just in your way as you work, but not too
bad. Disconnecting them at the underbody end is preferable, but
those joints sometimes don’t wanna come loose! If you can get them
loose, it’s a good time to apply anti-seize compound so they’re
easier to get apart next time.
You will need to disconnect the swingarms at the outer end to get
them to swing down enough to get the disks out. That’s presuming you
want to replace the disks. If you do, forget about drilled and
slotted, those are just gimmickry to sell expensive parts. Either
get plain ol’ solid or go with vented rotors.
– Kirbert
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 25 Nov 2013 at 9:55, mike90 wrote:
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
15
(1) getting rotors off was not easy as it would spin and i
could not get any leverage on the main bolts
Hmmm. Tip: Break all those nuts loose BEFORE dropping the cage!
(2) the parking brake was a nightmare for me, I still dont
have it right and I left it disconnected on reassembly
Imagine what a nightmare it’d be if you DIDN’T drop the cage and were
trying to put that system together from underneath?
– Kirbert
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 25 Nov 2013 at 6:09, nwmgnt2011 wrote:
In reply to a message from CJ95 sent Mon 25 Nov 2013:
The trailing arm question was in reference to the ROM. It
details changing the rotors, without dropping the
suspension, but shows dropping the trailing arm, but not the
suspension.
I was kinda hoping to never do the whole rear suspension
thing again, as for whatever reason, I had to walk away from
my E a couple of nights, as I had an EXTREMELY hard time
getting my new mounts to line up enough to bolt the
suspension back up. I don’t know if you guys change the
mounts when you take the suspension out, but seems like a
good idea? Plus, even though my E was extremely rust free,
it seems the pocket? indentation in the floor where the main
trailing arm bolt came up through the floor, held water. I
also had a difficult time getting those bolts out.
Its been so long since my first XJS, that the pain of that
one has long been gone.–
89 XJS convertible Marelli ignition
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Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
18
Spinning discs? That’s what impact drivers were made for!
Good point – but it may not be easy to get your impact driver in
there. And using extensions just soaks up all the impact.
– Kirbert
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 25 Nov 2013 at 15:41, CJ95 wrote:
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
19
The trailing arm question was in reference to the ROM. It
details changing the rotors, without dropping the
suspension, but shows dropping the trailing arm, but not the
suspension.
Yeah, you’d have to disconnect them to swing the arms down far
enough. Still, I think you’d be sorry that you didn’t drop the cage.
I was kinda hoping to never do the whole rear suspension
thing again, as for whatever reason, I had to walk away from
my E a couple of nights, as I had an EXTREMELY hard time
getting my new mounts to line up enough to bolt the
suspension back up.
That can be tricky, true enough. First, obviously, is don’t tighten
ANY bolts until you have ALL the bolts in. Second, if you can get
enough bolts in on one side to hold it, you can put the jack under
the other side and concentrate on that one.
Plus, even though my E was extremely rust free,
it seems the pocket? indentation in the floor where the main
trailing arm bolt came up through the floor, held water.
The XJ-S doesn’t have a bolt that comes up through the floor.
Rather, there’s a knob on the bottom of the car with a threaded hole
in the middle. Just a short bolt up from below holds the trailing
arm bushing in place – along with a short safety strap and another
bolt off to one side. Generally, the bolts come out easily enough.
The problem is getting the bushing itself off that knob, where it was
a tapered press fit to begin with and has rusted since.
– Kirbert
// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 25 Nov 2013 at 18:30, Gene Holtzclaw wrote:
In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Mon 25 Nov 2013:
Gene:
I changed my mounts the last time I had that cage out. I also
removed the trailing arm bolt at the hubs, and did not attempt to
take the forward mount loose instead.
I found the problem of refitting the cage pretty straight forward.
The mounts went up to the frame and I was able to get the through
bolts in pretty easily.
I would not take the cage by detaching from the mounts, but
rather, pull the through bolts that hold the mounts to the
body/frame. Much easier.
If you change your mounts, be advised that the convertibles use a
different part number, and these mounts have a different thickness
of rubber in them relative to the mounts for the coupes.
The biggest problem I had in refitting the cage was in reattaching
that rear mount of the trailing arms. The hubs had to be jacked up
a little bit to get the right angle for the bolt to engage the
threads. If you choose to drop the cage this way, when you put it
back up, you will see what I mean.
This is really not bad on the XJS- I would never contemplate any
kind of serious work on the cage components without dropping the
cage…it’s just not that hard getting out and back in. Well worth
the time to get all the access you will need.