[xj-s] Sticking right rear caliper

XJ-S
21

In reply to a message from mike90 sent Tue 26 Nov 2013:

Gene:

One last thing: if those cage mounts have never been changed, they
likely need to be changed. Look 'em over. Age (if not miles) mean
those rubber bits get brittle.

And: if you choose to do this work with the cage still in the car:
BE SURE YOU SUPPORT THE CAGE! There is relatively little holding
that assembly up there, really. It comes down to the rubber in the
mounts and the trailing arm bushes, and then the little bits of
cable and tubing hither and yon. Not much for an assembly that
weighs more than I care to contemplate.

I would not want to be under the cage when the car is in the air
and that cage is unsupported. The corollary: I do not lift the car
from the rear without supporting the cage.

If you already know all that, well, my apologies for the
redundancy. I just don’t want to later hear about a guy who was
injured by the rear cage coming down.

-M–
Mike, 1990 5.3 XJS Conv., 5-speed, SE-ECU, TT Extractors
Lakewood, OH, United States
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22

This is really not bad on the XJS- I would never contemplate any kind
of serious work on the cage components without dropping the
cage…it’s just not that hard getting out and back in.

As I understand it, the saloons had a removeable panel under the back
seat for access to the handbrake calipers. The XJ-S has no such
access panel, which may in fact be a reflection of just how easy it
is to drop that cage!

– Kirbert

// please trim quoted text to context onlyOn 26 Nov 2013 at 5:10, mike90 wrote:

23

In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Tue 26 Nov 2013:

Bits and pieces:

I farmed out the task of changing calipers in my car. Good and bad.
I don’t get out and get under as well as I once did. I got a mobile
mechanic to look. at first he was willing. but, chickened out as I
did. he did refer me ato a shop just starting up. OK, but, I don’t
think they got the park brake on. Result, clamity to a door. Fixed
sorta. In the spring, I’ll look! I am not a park brake aficionado
anyway!!!

In decades of getting stuff together, I learned ot use a slim
punch. Great to pry through bolt hoes to get alignment. Use a jack
or whatever to hold them inand then take the punch out and start a
bolt. if there are multiples, leave the punch in and start s close
by bolt.

Agree, do not tighten anything till all botsa are started.

Use new or cleaned bolts. Nice threads mean a lot. a tad of lube in
appropriate places. Antiseize is good. Loctite where appropriate.
But, thjinkl ahead!!

In tough starts, a bevel on the tip of a bolt often gets it to
start.

Beware of the cross thread. Nice if one can turn by hand before
putting a wrench on it.

Flush again!! Resuscitated old battery powered lantern. It
resembles a Coleman wick gas unit, but uses a 6v bsttery. Neat
engineering. excercising the switcha nd contacts brought it to
life. Bulb tested across the poles of the battery. used a bail as a
way to span the ground! But, no whre near the brightness of the
old white gas fueled Colemans of my youth!!

Carl–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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