[xj-s] testing Teves III ABS valve block solenoids - how to?

I am sure this has been covered ad infinitum, but I have not
been able to find the exact info I need - maybe I have searched
to much. I have copied over 40 pages from the archives and
finally decided to make this post.

I need to know exactly how to test the ABS valve block
solenoids. I know to apply 12VDC to each of the solenoid
contacts in the valve block connector, but I do not know the
which way the connector tabs are numbered (and I am not going
to make any assumptions, after all, it is a Jaguar).

So, is PIN 1 on the left or the right when looking at the
connector? I also need the same information for the ABS ECU
connector and any tips that may be applicable. All replies
greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, and yes I am a newbie.–
1990 XJ�S
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In reply to a message from MrGreg sent Fri 5 Jun 2015:

I can’t help you with the info you are looking for about
the Jaguar teves system. Have you tried searching the
internet for the info you are looking for? The teves
system also came on Buick reatta, pontiac ?, Ford
turbocoupe and supercoupe, and Saab. Probably others as
well. All the early systems are basically the same, just
packaged differently to fit each model. I know the reatta
forums have a lot of info on the teves system. Good luck–
89 XJS convertible, 1995 9C1 Lt1 motor, th400,pre abs brakes
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In reply to a message from MrGreg sent Fri 5 Jun 2015:

The solenoid block plug has seven terminals. If you peel
back the insulation on the plug, you will be able to see
the wire colors - the black wire (common ground thru the
ABS ECU) connects to terminal 7. Or, you can look at the
illustrations in the Teves III information I sent you off
thread. Or, if you if you don’t want to mess with the
insulation on the plug, measure the resistance across the
two outer terminals on each side of the solenoid block plug
receptacle, you will note the resistance across one pair
will be ~1/2 the resistance of other pair. That’s because
terminal 7 to terminal 6 circuit passes thru only one
solenoid while terminal 1 to terminal 2 passes thru two
solenoids. Now you know where terminal 1 and terminal 7
are. From the schematic, you can see the black wire to
terminal 7 (ground thru ABS ECU) is common to all 6
solenoids, and you must test each solenoid resistance with
one lead on terminal 7 all the time while you place the
other lead on each of the six remaining terminals.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1/4L60E Miami FL
Austin, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from boboli sent Sat 6 Jun 2015:

Thanks Boboli - In my research I found an extensive list
of other makes that used the Teves system. The first
reference to the Buick and Pontiac I found was in Kirby
Palm’s book but that is in reference to a less expensive
parts source for the accumulator bar.

Your suggestion to check out one of their forums is not
something I had thought of before, thanks!–
1990 XJ�S
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In reply to a message from lockheed sent Sat 6 Jun 2015:

Hello Lockheed, thanks for your reply. I referred to
having copied over 40 pages of posts, most of them were
yours from 2004 and in particular a long 2013 thread where
you helped ‘‘jstjagguy’’. Having read that, one would think
I wouldn’t need to ask again, but I think my problem is
that I researched so much I completely confused myself.

The main reason for asking is that the Jag is at the local
garage (closed for the weekend) where we are all trying to
solve the problem. So, I brought home a spare valve block
and thought I would test the solenoids and I don’t have
the connector cable to check which end the black ground is
on, therefore, the question: is pin 1 on the right or the
left?

THANK YOU for sending me the electrical diagram! I have
it but yours it much more clear and readable and helps a
lot. That said, I notice that mine for MY '90 is a little
different from your MY '92 diagram. The PIN numbers seem
to be reversed. I will send you my diagram for
comparison.

Thanks again for your help and all of your older posts!–
The original message included these comments:

thread. Or, if you if you don’t want to mess with the
insulation on the plug, measure the resistance across the
two outer terminals on each side of the solenoid block plug
receptacle, you will note the resistance across one pair
will be ~1/2 the resistance of other pair. That’s because


1990 XJ�S
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In reply to a message from MrGreg sent Sat 6 Jun 2015:

if you would like, I still have the abs plug in my car, even
though I switched to vacuum assist brakes. Since mine is an
89, I assume ours would be the same. I could get you a
picture of the wiring order or what ever you need. I don’t
mind messing with it either, since damaging the wiring won’t
effect my brakes like on a car still using the teves system.–
89 XJS convertible, 1995 9C1 Lt1 motor, th400,pre abs brakes
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In reply to a message from boboli sent Sat 6 Jun 2015:

Thank you, it is kind of you to offer, however, I think I have it
figured out now.

So, you mean you completely switched out your ABS system for the
previous vacuum booster system? If I can solve this problem
soon, I may seriously consider doing that. how much of a task was
it?–
The original message included these comments:

if you would like, I still have the abs plug in my car, even
though I switched to vacuum assist brakes. Since mine is an


1990 XJ�S
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In reply to a message from MrGreg sent Sat 6 Jun 2015:

It wasn’t difficult, just took some time to do. The hardest
part, and where I got lucky, is you need to replace the
pedal box because the abs and vacuum assist pedals are
different. I got lucky and found a junkyard in Phoenix ( 90
minute drive), that had 2 XJS’s. They let me go into the
yard and pull parts. When I went to pay, they didn’t ask me
what it was from so I got the pedal box, booster, master
cylinder, reservoir, and most of the steel line down to the
frame rail for $50!! I was pretty happy.
I bought a rebuild kit for the master and I also replaced
the reservoir with one from a Mitsubishi eclipse,per Kirby’s
book.
Installing the pedal box is as easy as unbolting the
original, unplug the brake switch on the pedal inside the
car first, and pulling it out. Replace with the new/ older
style. One thing before installing the vacuum assist pedal
box. The abs pedal has a rod welded to it to push on the
brake switch. The vacuum assist doesn’t. I measured the abs
pedal to get the distance this rod is located. I then
drilled a small hole in the vacuum pedal, and threaded it. I
ran a bolt through the hole and put a nut on the opposite
side to keep the bolt from backing out. It worked perfectly.
For the steel lines, I used the extra line I got from the
junkyard to attach the vacuum set up to the old abs lines. I
think I was able to attach one line to the female fitting on
the residual pressure(?) valve on the frame below the abs
master. I removed this valve from the car. The other line
runs down to a t fitting. I think the t was already there,
so I just had to connect the vacuum master line to it. You
need to flare a few steel brake lines, but over all, it
wasn’t bad. Hook up the 2 wires to the reservoir float,
connect a vacuum source to the booster, and bleed the
system. That’s about it.
The brakes work great, which I can’t say for the abs on my
car. I tried to fix the abs, but couldn’t. My daily driver
ford has a similar teves and it also sat in disrepair for
years. I was able to fix it, but not the Jaguar’s. I am
happy with the vacuum assist. It takes a little more pedal
effort, but at least it works.–
89 XJS convertible, 1995 9C1 Lt1 motor, th400,pre abs brakes
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In reply to a message from boboli sent Sun 7 Jun 2015:

‘‘I was able to attach one line to the female fitting on
the residual pressure(?) valve on the frame below the abs
master. I removed this valve from the car.’’

Bad idea - What you removed was the ‘‘pressure sensitive
pressure reducing valve’’ (Jaguar jargon - also called the
pressure delay or pressure reduction valve present on most
all cars) to the rear brakes which keeps the car from doing
automatic donuts under heavy braking as the rear brakes
lockup before the front. The ABS would normally prevent
that, but if the ABS is taking a time out, that valve
should keep the rear brakes from locking up before the
front and prevent an automatic donut as the skidding rear
passes the front. But now, you have removed that
protection, and if you do a panic wheel locking (remember,
no ABS) stop, expect the rear to lock up first with a great
possibility of an automatic donut.–
lockheed 92 XJS Cpe/97 LT1/4L60E Miami FL
Austin, TX, United States
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