Hello guys!, I posted this in the ‘‘other’’ forum and was hoping
maybe someone here would know:
Does anyone knows where a LHE1410 ECU for a 95 or 96 XJS can be
rebuilt?
Mine went bad last year due to water corrosion on the pins and I
found a rebuilt one, but I want to have the old one rebuild, just
to have around in case I need it (God forbid!)
There is one vendor out there who will sell a rebuilt ECU with a
lifetime warranty for about 1500,00 and that includes a core charge
of 400.00…my point is that 8someone8 out there does it for him,
otherwise why would they charge a core charge
I tried AJ6 Engeneerng and they don’t do AJ16 XJS ECU rebuilts.
In reply to a message from motorcarman sent Sun 5 Feb 2012:
If that is the case, that would be great because XJS AJ16 ECU’s are
not as readily available as the X300’s and when they turn up people
want over 700.00 for them, where a functioning X300 ECU can be had
for a little as 100.00.
In reply to a message from motorcarman sent Sun 5 Feb 2012:
not sure about US cars, but Euro X300 ECU’s won’t power up
without the security module. An EPROM swap in itself works,
as I have swapped XJR-6 EPROMs in my XJS’s ECU and it runs
just fine.–
The original message included these comments:
I would think that ANY 95 to 97 X300 ECM can be used if you
swap out the 2 EPROMS from your XJ-S.
In reply to a message from Arnoud sent Sun 5 Feb 2012:
Thanks to both
I have send them an email asking if they can work on mine…
Very interesting Arnoud. So all you did for your XJS-R to work was
put the XJR e-proms on the ECU?? Maybe the XJS E-PROMS will work on
the X300 ECU…As far as the security ECU is concerned, perhaps it
can communicate with the XJS module?? It might be worth dropping
100 bucks on a X300 ECU to see
On a related side note, do you all disconnect the battery to remove
the ECU? I have not been doing it, But someone told me that I run
the risk of destroying it unless I unplug the battery first. I was
told that by removing the ground strap from the ECU when I remove
it I run the risk of immediately frying it…That does not make
sense to me unless I was running the car this way, but just quickly
removing the ground strap and unplugging the ECU with the battery
connected does not seem like it would automatically destroy a ECU,
unless I was doing it with the car on…I know these cars are
sensitive, but they are not held together with chewing gum either–
95 AJ16 http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1325653847 Houston
Houston, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from Mark Janzic sent Sun 5 Feb 2012:
On UK market ECU’s it only works the one way, putting other eproms
into the XJS ECU.
An XJS doesn’t have all the security system off the X300, so
swapping its eproms into an X300 ECU gives you in effect an XJS
locked ECU. Plugging an X300 ECU straight into an XJS doesn’t work
as there’s nothing there to disarm the security. The main problem I
ran into trying something similar to Arnoud was the fuelling
inhibit signal, which cut the injectors and fuel pump.
I was told at one point that NA market cars don’t have the same
security, so it may be worth a shot.–
The original message included these comments:
Very interesting Arnoud. So all you did for your XJS-R to work was
put the XJR e-proms on the ECU?? Maybe the XJS E-PROMS will work on
the X300 ECU…As far as the security ECU is concerned, perhaps it
can communicate with the XJS module?? It might be worth dropping
100 bucks on a X300 ECU to see
In reply to a message from Rich W sent Tue 7 Feb 2012:
I think you are right. Its one thing to put the XJR-eproms on a XJS
ECU and another to put the XJS eproms on the X300.
Luckily the guys that where recommended a bit earlier are capable
of rebuilding the ECU at a very reasonable price and with a 5YR
warranty. Much better than buying a overpriced used ECU with no
warranty at all–
95 AJ16 http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1325653847 Houston
Houston, TX, United States
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I know this is an old thread, but I just had to get the ECU for my 1995 XJS replaced due to it filling with water from a leak at the base of the windshield, and I thought I would share with updated info. I called Specialized ECU, since they are about 30 minutes from me, but they said they no longer work on ECUs that old. They told me that they don’t have the test equipment, and made it clear that they just weren’t interested. Then I tried Autotek in Santa Ana, California. They responded to my email right away, said they had a unit in stock, and sold it to me for $285. I received it in a week, plugged it in, and the car started right up. Recommended.
Wow, I started that topic six years ago! I was still in my 20’s …
Well, I have two spare XJS AJ16 ECU’s (one is a brand new one I was able to secure) that I keep and I had been thinking of selling one to partly fund another project. The fact no one seems to be rebuilding them has made me throw that idea out of the window rather quickly!!!
Remember though, the AJ16 cars tend to have corroded pins from drops leaking into the ECU- I have documented this here before, but you need to make sure you pack the top of your ECU connectors and lightly coat the pins and “inside” of connectors with Nyogel 760G also packaged as Motorcraft XG12 this gel is meant for connectors …DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE !! . Also seal the bulkhead in the engine (with aesthetically pleasing black silicone) where the water makes its way in after washing your car or A/C water drops run from the vacuum hose down to the ECU area… I lost 2 ECU’s until I figured out what was going on. I have never had a problem again since fixing this. I should probably repack the outside of the connectors with the gel sometime soon…
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
11
Might it be possible to fashion some sort of shield to go over the ECU to protect it from water?
Might be even better to repair the rotted scuttle that facelifts are prone to. By the time the ECU is toast there will already be considerable and difficult to repair corrosion.
Can you specify where the rust is likely so we can check? Although this would still be unrelated to drops of water from the A/C line running down the vacuum tube into the ECU, I would like to know places the car is prone to rust, so I can check.
Slight bubbles in the paintwork at the top and bottom of the windscreen normally conceal serious problems, (these are facelift cars where the screen is bonded).
You might try ATP Electronic Developments in the UK for a rebuild of your ECM- no affiliation or experience with them, but they do some Rover stuff (along with a lot of others).
…