[xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

XJ-S
1

Hello,

I just pulled the grill to check that the wiper motor cover had not
disintegrated and blocked the drain holes as per comments in The Book,
as a possible source of the water that gets in - presumably via the air
conditioning - on long journeys at speed in the rain. Two points:

  1. It isn’t really necessary to remove the wiper arms

  2. Be careful with the small dome-head nuts when refixing. I applied a
    little too much torque and snapped one bolt clean off :frowning:

My motor cover was intact (must be the sheer lack of sunlight in this
rainy climate!) and my drains are clear - so why am I getting water
dripping into the driver’s footwell on long wet journeys? My car doesn’t
leak (at least, not from that point :slight_smile: when sat outside in the rain,
at least as far as I have noticed, and this country is so very wet …

Duncan

2

Duncan,

Where are you that is so wet?

Len. Tucson. '85 XJ-S HE Coupe----- Original Message -----
From: “Duncan Smith” dps@imdb.com
To: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Hello,

I just pulled the grill to check that the wiper motor cover had not
disintegrated and blocked the drain holes as per comments in The Book,
as a possible source of the water that gets in - presumably via the air
conditioning - on long journeys at speed in the rain. Two points:

  1. It isn’t really necessary to remove the wiper arms
    SNIP
    (at least, not from that point :slight_smile: when sat outside in the rain,
    at least as far as I have noticed, and this country is so very wet …

Duncan

3

Your front windscreen gasket may be in need of replacement. Once mine was
replaced, there hasn’t been any leaks on either my legs or in the glove box.

I ordered the gasket from Jaguar, and had a good window shop do the
installation. There may be some trim around the bottom of the chrome by the
front cowl that will be in need of replacement. I had gotten a length of
that from the dealer also, I traded Kirbert the extra I didn’t need for use
on his boot lid(its the same part).

Charles

4

My Fellow Enthusiasts,

I have recently replaced my front windshield and can tell you that the
little black plastic edge finishers under the bottom chrome strip are Jaguar
p/n BEC 17446, price is US $9.00 ea. Fortunately for me, the nice guys in
the parts department of our local dealer (Collier Jaguar), knew the XJ-S
well enough that even though the part shown in the latest version of the
printed parts manual is incorrect, they knew of this part and found it on
the '92 and later model year Fiche system.

I hope this tiny shred of information helps anybody else attempting this
fix.

kind regards to all,

-Don Buresh, 1991 XJ-S V12 Coupe where I can see clearly now (and stay dry)
Orlando----- Original Message -----
From: “Charles Maraia” maraia@att.net
To: xj-s@jag-lovers.org
Cc: dps@imdb.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Your front windscreen gasket may be in need of replacement. Once mine was
replaced, there hasn’t been any leaks on either my legs or in the glove
box.

I ordered the gasket from Jaguar, and had a good window shop do the
installation. There may be some trim around the bottom of the chrome by
the
front cowl that will be in need of replacement. I had gotten a length of
that from the dealer also, I traded Kirbert the extra I didn’t need for
use
on his boot lid(its the same part).

Charles

5

Len,

Where are you that is so wet?

Great Britain, of course :frowning:

Imagine a 372 mile journey from Bristol to Edinburgh (Southwest England to
Central Scotland), six hours of driving, intermittent rain. By the sixth
hour, my left shoe and sock had gotten wet enough for me too notice.

This happened the last time I drove up to Edinburgh as well. Normal wet
weather drives of shorter durations don’t produce this result. I had in
fact forgotten it had even happened the first time until it happened again
(I drive up to Edinburgh for the festival each August, and it constitutes
a third of my yearly mileage!),

Duncan

6

Duncan,
I guess you’ll just have to drive with your waterproof car cover on at all
times. Kidding aside, those factory windshield (windscreen) and rear window
seal gaskets leak like a sieve, don’t they, as do the door seals.
You can force sealant in under the outer windshield rubber with a caulking
gun if you keep the tube tip “buried” under it as you move the “gun”
steadily and evenly all the way around. You will waste your time unless you
use only the best automotive window sealant, such as 3M’s. If you want to
attempt this, E-mail me and I will give you more details, on how to prep the
rubber and clean out under it to take the sealant…

In your climate, you may also have rust holes in the “tub” under the wiper
motor. If so, you could always seal it up temporarily with aluminum tape
and silicone, at least until next summer.

Talk to you later,
(I love Edinburgh and the Tattoo at night)
Len ,
Tucson. '85 XJ-S HE Coupe (not a spot of rust anywhere, no credit to
Jaguar - this Jaguar is a desert cat)----- Original Message -----
From: “Duncan Smith” dps@imdb.com
To: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Len,

Where are you that is so wet?

Great Britain, of course :frowning:

Imagine a 372 mile journey from Bristol to Edinburgh (Southwest England to
Central Scotland), six hours of driving, intermittent rain. By the sixth
hour, my left shoe and sock had gotten wet enough for me too notice.

This happened the last time I drove up to Edinburgh as well. Normal wet
weather drives of shorter durations don’t produce this result. I had in
fact forgotten it had even happened the first time until it happened again
(I drive up to Edinburgh for the festival each August, and it constitutes
a third of my yearly mileage!),

Duncan

7

Len,

Your methods for sealing the windshield and rear window could benifit
most of us here on the list. In fact, sealing those windows were the
next item on my list. The gaskets appear to be in good shape, but both
windows leak when ever I wash the car. I looked for any signs of cracks,
tears, or a visable point of entry and find no obvious problems with the
gasket material. I found some places along the rear window where
something (I don’t know if it is dried brittle glue, or years of dust and
dead mold) can be easily coaxed out of the crevice between the rubber and
the glass. Passing a shop vac near the crevice will draw the stuff out
in small paper thin sections, but it crumbles into dust if you try and
pick it up with your fingers.

Can I clean the crevice out completely, and then inject a sealer with the
glass in place, or do I need to remove the old gaskets and replace them
with new material?

Are you SURE there is no rust on your car? I found some rust at the
bottom of my fan shroud last night while cleaning it up to re-install
after replacing the radiator.

Mark Emerson
1987 “Southern California” XJ-S
(I thought it was rust free)

On Mon, 29 Oct 2001 00:01:02 -0700 “Len and Sheila”
lands1@mindspring.com writes:> Duncan,

I guess you’ll just have to drive with your waterproof car cover on
at all
times. Kidding aside, those factory windshield (windscreen) and
rear window
seal gaskets leak like a sieve, don’t they, as do the door seals.
You can force sealant in under the outer windshield rubber with a
caulking
gun if you keep the tube tip “buried” under it as you move the “gun”
steadily and evenly all the way around. You will waste your time
unless you
use only the best automotive window sealant, such as 3M’s. If you
want to
attempt this, E-mail me and I will give you more details, on how to
prep the
rubber and clean out under it to take the sealant…

In your climate, you may also have rust holes in the “tub” under the
wiper
motor. If so, you could always seal it up temporarily with aluminum
tape
and silicone, at least until next summer.

Talk to you later,
(I love Edinburgh and the Tattoo at night)
Len ,
Tucson. '85 XJ-S HE Coupe (not a spot of rust anywhere, no credit
to
Jaguar - this Jaguar is a desert cat)

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8

Mark,
I’m a little short on time right now ( I guess I’ve been too busy posting
jokes to the list lately) but I’m going to post a response to the List
later, for all who have expressed a desire to fix their windshield and rear
glass seal problems.

Re rust on my '85 XJ-S: I had my radiator out for a recore, and people
asked me (at the Voc school where I have been teaching auto body for the
past 31/2 years) if the rad support frame, shrouds and top cover were either
brand new or repainted in gloss black. I told them it was all original.
I’ve even got scatches of bare metal that are still shiny steel on the
shroud edges thet I have observed for years, and have not touched up yet.
This morning, I removed my cowling grill and wiper motor, because the platic
rain cover is disintegrated from intense sun damage. Underneath, in the
“pan” area, and under the cowlinng, it is factory perfect. I kid you not, I
wahed the dust off it with my favorite all 'round foaming detail
cleaner(“Sprayway” ammonia free Glass Cleaner from Costco) and rubbed it all
up to a high shine with a dry cloth. There is a one inch square of bare,
unpainted steel in there (in front of the drain), and it has turned a slight
golden color. I will sand that and touch it up.
The primary reason why the underside of the cowl panel is notorious for
rusting out in rust belt regions of the world (reason #2, electrolytic
reaction to the type of rubber in the windshield gasket) is that is NOT
painted under there! There is a light, “dry coat” of primer there, but it’s
not a covering coat. Also, being an '85 british car, it’s lacquer primer,
which is next to useless, even in a full coat, for holding out rust.
Again, even this has not begun to rust on my car, but my other reason in
taking the grill out was to rust proof thes notorious cowling panels. I
will first of all wipe them down with solvent ( no sanding, because there is
no rut present, and the existing light ccoat of primer will provide enough
“bite” or adhesion). Then I will coat the entire inside with a spray wand.
If you don’t have acces to that kind of equipement, improvise. Extension
tube on a spray can? Long handled right angled brush (or make your own)?
Wipe on paint with a rag? Remember, this is up underneath. Don’t forget to
coat behind the “hidden” edges, such as where the cowl folds down to make a
recess for the grill to sit in.

OK. Enough for now. I will get back to the window seal problem later.

Len Olsen Tucson. '85 XJ-S HE Coupe.----- Original Message -----
From: markemerson@juno.com
To: <@Len_and_Sheila>
Cc: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org; dps@imdb.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Len,

Your methods for sealing the windshield and rear window could benifit
most of us here on the list. In fact, sealing those windows were the
next item on my list. The gaskets appear to be in good shape, but both
windows leak when ever I wash the car. I looked for any signs of cracks,
tears, or a visable point of entry and find no obvious problems with the
gasket material. I found some places along the rear window where
something (I don’t know if it is dried brittle glue, or years of dust and
dead mold) can be easily coaxed out of the crevice between the rubber and
the glass. Passing a shop vac near the crevice will draw the stuff out
in small paper thin sections, but it crumbles into dust if you try and
pick it up with your fingers.

Can I clean the crevice out completely, and then inject a sealer with the
glass in place, or do I need to remove the old gaskets and replace them
with new material?

Are you SURE there is no rust on your car? I found some rust at the
bottom of my fan shroud last night while cleaning it up to re-install
after replacing the radiator.

Mark Emerson
1987 “Southern California” XJ-S
(I thought it was rust free)

SNIP

9

Tom,

Hello again,

Re: Sealing window gaskets.

I will be pulling it together for you (and others) later. I want to
research some products that you’ll be able to purchase for the job first.
You can quickly waste all your efforts by using inferior sealant, etc.

Len.----- Original Message -----
From: “Tom Bennett” tomnhelen54@bennettt28.fsnet.co.uk
To: “Len and Sheila” <@Len_and_Sheila>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 1:00 AM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Hi Len,
I would like some more details for this job! I live in Edinburgh too :frowning:
regards
Tom

10

Guys,

Further to resealing the windscreen: my dealer just said that the entire
chrome trim usually needs replacing as it won’t go back afterwards. Is
that people’s experience?

Duncan

11

Hello Duncan!

My experience with re-installing the chrome trim after windshield
replacement is that the groove that the trim is inserted into needs to be
“opened up” with a proper trim tool before installation. This tool looks a
lot like a cotter pin puller but is bent 90 deg. so that it resembles a
hook.

If you run this tool though the groove FIRST, it frees the groove in the
rubber strip sufficiently that the chrome trim can be inserted fully. I know
this from painful experience (sharp edges) trying to force the trim back
into place before opening up the groove.

If Len Olsen is reading this, perhaps he will assist in describing this tool
and its proper name.

The original trim will re-install quite nicely after cleaning the grooves.

As a small aside, the window guy was not going to seal the gasket until I
demanded it, both to the body and to the windshield. This is extra work for
them, but stand by your guns! What good is a guarantee if they have to come
back and remove all of the chrome again? What is your time and aggravation
worth?

For the first time since owning my car, I can see CLEARLY at night and
EVERYTHING stays dry.

kind regards,

-Don Buresh, 1991 XJ-S V12 Coupe, Classic
Orlando-- Original Message -----
From: “Duncan Smith” dps@imdb.com
To: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Guys,

Further to resealing the windscreen: my dealer just said that the entire
chrome trim usually needs replacing as it won’t go back afterwards. Is
that people’s experience?

Duncan

12

Duncan

I have just had the PO’s sun roof removed from my toy which required the
windscreen to be removed/refitted and I had no trouble with the
reinstallation of the chrome moldings in this area. The only reason that I
can see they would need replacing is if they are damaged prior to or during
removal.

Glenn Boatswain
81 XJ-S pre HE
Bathurst
Australia----- Original Message -----
From: “Duncan Smith” dps@imdb.com
To: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 3:42 AM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Guys,

Further to resealing the windscreen: my dealer just said that the entire
chrome trim usually needs replacing as it won’t go back afterwards. Is
that people’s experience?

Duncan

13

Len Olsen here,

Just got home, and caught this discussion even before I have time to see
what else you gusys have posted on this subject.

First of all, NO chrome trim needs replacing unless you force it, kink it
of otherwise damage it because of not knowing how it is supposed to be
done. I am going to repeat the following periodically - DON’T force
dry rubber, but always apply a soapy solution to the grooves prior to
opening them up or inserting chrome or locking strips
The tool I think you’re referring to is a “Windshield Locking Strip Tool”.
It has a screwdriver type handle and across the tip is a wedge shaped “T”
bar for inserting in the rubber groove to spread it open for either the
chrome or the locking strip. This is also a double action tool that inserts
the locking strip at the same time as it opens the gap (strip is fed through
the hole in the tool, much the same way as a rug makers hook works). This
tool should not be used on the actual chrome (only on the rubber gasket and
the rbber locking strip). It is perfect for opening and stretching the
groove or channel.
DON’T force dry rubber, but always apply a soapy solution to the
grooves prior to opening them up or inserting chrome or locking strips

I think we are dealing with a few different types of windshield
“installations” here on our XJ-S’s. Take my '85, for example. It now has an
“American” styl installation, as I have a new windshield and gasket
installed (urethane bonded, no locking strip needed, original chrome
re-installed.Rear window, original glass and gasket, but cleaned out of
DPO’s junk sealant and resealed with 3M urethane rebedding compound #0809.

BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE REAR WINDOW GASKET. It may be too brittle to
extract the chrome locking strip without cracking the rubber gasket. If the
rubber has tuned to plastic, IT CAN be sealed externally
with the 3M urethane. It will still have to have to be scraped and cleaned
thoroughly using wood instruments made from paint stir sticks.

I have attend to something else right now, but communicate with me, and I’ll
get back to you guys.

Len Olsen.
(excuse my typos etc., my spellcheck is non-functional).----- Original Message -----
From: “Donald C. Buresh, Jr.” dburesh@cfl.rr.com
To: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org; “Duncan Smith” dps@imdb.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Hello Duncan!

My experience with re-installing the chrome trim after windshield
replacement is that the groove that the trim is inserted into needs to be
“opened up” with a proper trim tool before installation. This tool looks a
lot like a cotter pin puller but is bent 90 deg. so that it resembles a
hook.

If you run this tool though the groove FIRST, it frees the groove in the
rubber strip sufficiently that the chrome trim can be inserted fully. I
know
this from painful experience (sharp edges) trying to force the trim back
into place before opening up the groove.

If Len Olsen is reading this, perhaps he will assist in describing this
tool
and its proper name.

The original trim will re-install quite nicely after cleaning the grooves.

As a small aside, the window guy was not going to seal the gasket until I
demanded it, both to the body and to the windshield. This is extra work
for
them, but stand by your guns! What good is a guarantee if they have to
come
back and remove all of the chrome again? What is your time and aggravation
worth?

For the first time since owning my car, I can see CLEARLY at night and
EVERYTHING stays dry.

kind regards,

-Don Buresh, 1991 XJ-S V12 Coupe, Classic
Orlando

– Original Message -----
From: “Duncan Smith” dps@imdb.com
To: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air
conditioning

Guys,

Further to resealing the windscreen: my dealer just said that the entire
chrome trim usually needs replacing as it won’t go back afterwards. Is
that people’s experience?

Duncan

14

Don, Duncan, Tom Bennett et al,

The hooked windshield tool you are referring to is a “winshield Gasket Hook”
is really intended for limited use, to “uncurl” or to work any stuck lip of
rubber gasket over the metal lip or pinch weld. One has to be extra careful
as this tool has a tendency to tear older rubber.
Apply soapy solution with plumbers foam glue applicator to lube the
rubber

Regarding Ted’s difficult windshield removal: if it was your '82 XJ-S, the
glued installation was not original. To break a urethane or “ribbon” bedded
windshield you have to use a pull thru or hot knife method, or a two handled
pull thru piano wire “tool”. Even the body shops farm windshield
INSTALLATION work out now. Anybobody can remove a windshield (albeit boken)
but it takes experience to install one properly.

All windshield chrome can be saved for reinstallation, no car excluded. Some
are more difficult, but not impossible.

Later I will get into how to reseal a leaking window gasket from the outside
only, with 3M urethane #8009 rebedding sealer ( but note that a cheap
caulking gun cannot handle the pressure required to dispense it- buy a heavy
duty compound action type caulking gun).

Time to go eat.

Len.----- Original Message -----
From: “Donald C. Buresh, Jr.” dburesh@cfl.rr.com
To: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org; “Duncan Smith” dps@imdb.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Hello Duncan!

My experience with re-installing the chrome trim after windshield
replacement is that the groove that the trim is inserted into needs to be
“opened up” with a proper trim tool before installation. This tool looks a
lot like a cotter pin puller but is bent 90 deg. so that it resembles a
hook.

If you run this tool though the groove FIRST, it frees the groove in the
rubber strip sufficiently that the chrome trim can be inserted fully. I
know
this from painful experience (sharp edges) trying to force the trim back
into place before opening up the groove.

If Len Olsen is reading this, perhaps he will assist in describing this
tool
and its proper name.

The original trim will re-install quite nicely after cleaning the grooves.

As a small aside, the window guy was not going to seal the gasket until I
demanded it, both to the body and to the windshield. This is extra work
for
them, but stand by your guns! What good is a guarantee if they have to
come
back and remove all of the chrome again? What is your time and aggravation
worth?

For the first time since owning my car, I can see CLEARLY at night and
EVERYTHING stays dry.

kind regards,

-Don Buresh, 1991 XJ-S V12 Coupe, Classic
Orlando

– Original Message -----
From: “Duncan Smith” dps@imdb.com
To: xj-s-digest@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air
conditioning

Guys,

Further to resealing the windscreen: my dealer just said that the entire
chrome trim usually needs replacing as it won’t go back afterwards. Is
that people’s experience?

Duncan

15

: Duncan Smith <>

Hi Duncan

You Wrote:

Further to resealing the windscreen: my dealer just said that the entire
chrome trim usually needs replacing as it won’t go back afterwards. Is
that people’s experience?

That is just so much bulls**t. There is, however, a bit of a trick to the
replacement of the side trim which might described be in “the book” but you
will definitely find in the archives as this was the subject of extensive
discussion some years back. Mine has been on and off at least three times.

Also you may be interested to know that the trim is stainless steel, not
chrome.

Hope this helps

Steve Kleyn
'84 XJ-S

(This is when this list is just great - putting unscrupulous people who take
chances with jag owners in their place!)Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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16

At 08:04 PM 31/10/2001 +0200, you wrote:>: Duncan Smith <>

Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

While this is a hot subject . . . .

My rear window has never leaked and there was no rust in the area, but the
window seal was 22 years old and perished. On removing the bright trim
around the window I found either the factory or dealer under warranty had
applied a lot of RTV early in the car’s life to hold the trim. It was not
possible to extract the trim without bending it to some extent.

Meanwhile I pulled the old headlining and used a fibreglass repair kit to
beef up the crumbling edges of the moulded roof panel. That was a big
mistake, because the rear edge of the moulded panel fits into a slit in the
rear window seal. Now my panel is a bit thicker around the edges and
perhaps 5mm longer. It pushes the new and pliable rear seal outwards even
with the window in place. This has distorted the seal, although it does not
leak. The problem is the distortion does not allow me to put the bright
trim pieces back in. I guess I will have to pull out the headlining and
carefully shorten it without damaging the new covering material. I have non
hardening compound in the window seal so if I ever have to pull it out it
will not be damaged.

One quick fix is to push the window back into position then use a hardening
sealer similar to RTV. It will not push out easily then, but it will be a
write off if I have to remove it ever again. Any other suggestion to help ?

The lack of bright trim does not look bad from a distance, but close up you
can see the seal is not properly bedded.

Some good news on rust. A young guy in an office down the road showed me
his 1977 XJ-S a couple of days ago. He bought it 5 years ago and the PO
usually had it garaged. He does not use it much either. I drove it and it
was pretty good for such an original car, no obvious faults apart from minor
disc runout. I carefully checked the body which has what looks like
original factory paint. It had a few minor dings from shopping trolleys,
but no rust in the usual places except in the lower door seal channel which
always harbours water.

I was very impressed. I have to say it is rare, even in this climate, to
see such rust free examples although I have no complaints about mine which
had very little rust and all of it easy to fix - except the door channel
which was a tedious session.

Richard Dowling, Melbourne, Australia, '79 XJ-S & '85 XJ6.

17

Hi Steve

First of all, thanks again for your help on my alternator
problem.
Regarding the windshield chrome on the XJ-S, while it is highly unusual, in
that it is hardwearing, lightweight and lightgauge, in all my postings on
sealing water leaks, I call it chrome (as in chrome plated steel) because my
magnet sticks to it. In every other way, it behaves like stainless.

Has any Lister had negative experiences with this trim that would help
explain it’s composition, eg. rusting, peeling pitting? Going by my trim,
if it’s plated, it’s remarkable(inside and out) but I live in the dry
southwest.
To all out there who intend on removing at least some of the chrome to seal
the leaks, be gentle with it, because it buckles and kinks very easily.
Also, remove each piece in the proper order, because one piece locks the
next piece down (the pillar chrome locks the windshield upper and lower
chrome pieces). There are two screws holding the pillar trim, and three
behind the cowl grill hold the lower moulding. The pillar mouldings have to
be eased off the gutter moulding. Do not use screwdrivers or metal
instuments to pry the mouldings off. Auto glass shops use “fiber wedges” to
ease mouldings out of their rubber channels. The wedge sticks are also
available in plastic. I also recommend that you use a soapy solution as a
rubber release agent. Some say you should use a silicone spray, but that
would contaminate the area you wish to seal with urethane sealant,
destroying the bond. If you want to use silicone, use it for reinstallation
only.

By the way, Steve, I also have had my mouldings off and on a number of
times.

Len Olsen.
'85 XJ-S HE Coupe----- Original Message -----
From: “Steve Kleyn” steve@lukhozi.co.za
To: dps@imdb.com
Cc: xj-s@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 11:04 AM
Subject: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

: Duncan Smith <>
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air
conditioning

Hi Duncan

You Wrote:

Further to resealing the windscreen: my dealer just said that the entire
chrome trim usually needs replacing as it won’t go back afterwards. Is
that people’s experience?

That is just so much bulls**t. There is, however, a bit of a trick to the
replacement of the side trim which might described be in “the book” but
you
will definitely find in the archives as this was the subject of extensive
discussion some years back. Mine has been on and off at least three times.

Also you may be interested to know that the trim is stainless steel, not
chrome.

Hope this helps

Steve Kleyn
'84 XJ-S

(This is when this list is just great - putting unscrupulous people who
take
chances with jag owners in their place!)

18

Len wrote:

Regarding the windshield chrome on the XJ-S, while it is highly unusual, in
that it is hardwearing, lightweight and lightgauge, in all my postings on
sealing water leaks, I call it chrome (as in chrome plated steel) because my
magnet sticks to it. In every other way, it behaves like stainless.

Has any Lister had negative experiences with this trim that would help
explain it’s composition, eg. rusting, peeling pitting

The trim on my 90 is stainless, at least that’s what I always thought it was. A
magnet will not stick to it ( most of it) I will get a light pull from a magnet
at a few spots. Thought this might be from behind the trim??, I have no idea
what’s under the trim. There are a couple SS alloy’s that are magnetic, 410,
416, and a couple that will become magnetic after heat treating, 15-5 PH and
type 630.

I for one would like to know what the trim pieces are made from. I plan on
buffing the windshield trim someday, maybe this winter.

Al Askevold
90 XJ-S CONV.
The Ozarks, USA

19

Windshield/-screen is stainless on my 1988.

Dean
1988 XJ-S__________________________________________________
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Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com

20

Richard,

Yes, it does seem that you did to your headliner the kind of thing we
usually blame on DPO’s. As you say, you will have to do your best to
reverse the damage. 3M spraycan contact cement is what the auto glass
shops use to to reattach the covering material (but that is the end of the
job, and you’re still contemplating a start).

I hpe that your previous headliner patch will hold up to a “slim & trim” .
I know it’s a pain, but you’ll be much happier if you pull the window and
gasket rubber and do it right. A few days work and it’ll be done. Use 3M
urethane sealant #0809. Coat the pinch weld channel with the matching 3M
urethane primer (after getting it thoroughly clean ). Use a “fiber or
plastic wedge tool” to ease the rubber channel open, and lube it with
silicone spray or soapy solution to get the trim in.
A hook tool will be helpful for the rubber, but be careful 'cas it can tear.
A new gasket is not expensive ($37 US) if it needs it.

Len.
Tucson, Arizona. '85 XJ-S HE Coupe.----- Original Message -----
From: “Red Phase Instruments/RMD Electronics” redphase@access.net.au
To: xj-s@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air conditioning

At 08:04 PM 31/10/2001 +0200, you wrote:

: Duncan Smith <>
Subject: Re: [xj-s] Wiper grill/cowl rust; water leak from air
conditioning

While this is a hot subject . . . .

My rear window has never leaked and there was no rust in the area, but the
window seal was 22 years old and perished. On removing the bright trim
around the window I found either the factory or dealer under warranty had
applied a lot of RTV early in the car’s life to hold the trim. It was not
possible to extract the trim without bending it to some extent.

Meanwhile I pulled the old headlining and used a fibreglass repair kit to
beef up the crumbling edges of the moulded roof panel. That was a big
mistake, because the rear edge of the moulded panel fits into a slit in
the
rear window seal. Now my panel is a bit thicker around the edges and
perhaps 5mm longer. It pushes the new and pliable rear seal outwards even
with the window in place. This has distorted the seal, although it does
not
leak. The problem is the distortion does not allow me to put the bright
trim pieces back in. I guess I will have to pull out the headlining and
carefully shorten it without damaging the new covering material. I have
non
hardening compound in the window seal so if I ever have to pull it out it
will not be damaged.

One quick fix is to push the window back into position then use a
hardening
sealer similar to RTV. It will not push out easily then, but it will be a
write off if I have to remove it ever again. Any other suggestion to help
?

The lack of bright trim does not look bad from a distance, but close up
you
can see the seal is not properly bedded.

Some good news on rust. A young guy in an office down the road showed me
his 1977 XJ-S a couple of days ago. He bought it 5 years ago and the PO
usually had it garaged. He does not use it much either. I drove it and
it
was pretty good for such an original car, no obvious faults apart from
minor
disc runout. I carefully checked the body which has what looks like
original factory paint. It had a few minor dings from shopping trolleys,
but no rust in the usual places except in the lower door seal channel
which
always harbours water.

I was very impressed. I have to say it is rare, even in this climate, to
see such rust free examples although I have no complaints about mine which
had very little rust and all of it easy to fix - except the door channel
which was a tedious session.

Richard Dowling, Melbourne, Australia, '79 XJ-S & '85 XJ6.