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The symptom for ‘capmod’ fault is; normal cold start and idle, Francois - engine misbehaving only while accelerating. Flat surfaces ok, misfiring going uphill. When warmed up engine is behaving normally…
As Paul says; the FAQ describes remedial actions. Actually, two approaches are possible; fitting the capacitor inside the AFM or solder the capacitor to the wires outside the AFM. Peel back the rubber boot on the AFM connector - the capmod may already have been done, and the capacitor there has failed…
Hi David, you gave me hope for a second I just treid but the car still still behaves the same after disconnecting the Cold start injector. Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi Frank, I just checked and didnt see a capacitor added to the wiring under the cap nor inside the afm itself. I guess that at 97 000 miles it’s time for the capmod! I bookmarked the FAQ sextion, i’m good to go!. Thanks again!.
Good afternoon, after 2 weeks of vacations and 3 of flight training, i am finally able to fit that capacitor. However, all i have to work with is the write up in the FAQ and the accompanying picture. It shows the capacitor attached to the 3rd and 5th wire but i cant tell which one is where the positive terminal goes to. Any clue? Thanks!
Hi Francois, When I did that mod I used a non polarized capacitor. I think that you can get them fairly easily, then you can fit it any way you like. I only knew this because I was replacing a capacitor that had failed and was already in place.
Con
The negative cap lead goes to the third wire from the front, Panzieri - the pos lead to the fifth. Actually, terminal #6 and terminal #8 as marked on the AFM connector…
Bingo! Betty’s now smooth on cold starts and warmup. I couldn’t manage to pull the wires out of the socket so, I soldered the capacitor inside the unit. Hopefully the heat didn’t damage anything
I just treid but the car still still behaves the same after disconnecting the Cold start injector. Thanks for the suggestion!
