[xj] stake down kit

im sure I will get inundated with responses here, but first
come, first served, I purchased the stake down kit for my
baby , opened her up and voila, someone beat me to it, so if
anyone wants it, its up for free… just need an address to
send it to–
Darren B 83 xj6 orlando florida brg 69k miles
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In reply to a message from darrenmb sent Fri 6 Jan 2006:

well that was quick, we have a winner already
Joe A. in phoenix, glad I could help someone out–
Darren B 83 xj6 orlando florida brg 69k miles
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my 84 xj6 is now turning 150K. have a ticking noise,read through
the FAQs and became alarmed at the prospect of impending doom. got
a stake down kit from a major supplier. no instructions. I would
like this to be a one time project.done right. my concern is the
depth of the holes,before hitting the oil passage inside.BTW in my
youth I drove ALFAs and the tappets ran in the aluminum head with
NO sleve.never a problem that im aware of.BUT,that was before the
internet.also on the ALFA no external oil lines. the screws in my
kit are not self tapping.ive had the valve cover off the exaust
side and all is good. ed–
84 XJ6
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In reply to a message from edscott sent Mon 4 Nov 2013:

There are no oil pressure-fed lines, just passages under
where you will be drilling. The thing you will want to do is
be Darn sure you get every aluminium chip you can get,
cleaned up after to do the drilling. Drill slow. I took a
small piece of masking tape and wrapped it around the drill
bit at a depth a little longer than the total depth of the
actual amount of hole depth. That depth is NOT the screw
length, but the length of the screw minus the thickness of
the stake-down pieces, and the amount of height that they
are above the head, when sitting on the tappet guides.–
Tom Hishon, 69 E-type 2+2, 69 E-type OTS, 85 XJ6, '03 X-type
Wasilla, Alaska, United States
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In reply to a message from kassaq sent Mon 4 Nov 2013:

thank you TOM. you’re in WASILLA? say hi to WHATS HER NAME for me.
so the passage under the tapped hole are oil return routes? the
dimension I referred to is the depth from the surface of the head
to that passage wall. BTW the screws that came with the kit are
10x24. thanks again ed–
84 XJ6
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In reply to a message from edscott sent Tue 5 Nov 2013:

I accidentally drilled the first hole in one of my cars’
stake down kits too deep and went through to the oil return
galley. It hasn’t caused any problem at all, but I wouldn’t
recommend doing it (you run the very real probability of
getting aluminium chips down in the oil sump). I had ‘self
tapping’ slotted hex head screws with my kit, but tapped the
holes anyway. I didn’t want to run the risk of breaking off
one of the screws in the head. Some people advocate using
some Locktite, but I just made sure mine were tight. I
haven’t had any problem with the 3 XK engines I have that I
put them in. Some people say that you only need to put the
kit on the exhaust side, but others will suggest doing the
intake also. I have heard that fuel injected/catalytic
convertor cars are more prone to need them. I imagine Dick
Maury would have more info on that.–
Tom Hishon, 69 E-type 2+2, 69 E-type OTS, 85 XJ6, '03 X-type
Wasilla, Alaska, United States
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In reply to a message from kassaq sent Wed 6 Nov 2013:

When using the plate style lock down kits, I prefer to drill and
tap the holes to use allen cap screws. Self tapping sheet metal
screws are not the way to go. I also use loctite as you do not want
to overtighten the screws. Doing so warps the plate and can cause
the tappet guide to warp causing the tappet to stick. Not much
pressure is required to keep them in place so snug and let the
loctite keep the screw from moving. On our rebuilt heads, we lock
down all 12 tappet guides. I have seen them come loose all the way
back into the XK-120’s on the inlet side. No use taking chances.
Drilling to far is not a problem as it is a big open area under the
area where you are drilling. The screw will seal the hole back up
to keep the oil from draining down.–
The original message included these comments:

one of the screws in the head. Some people advocate using
some Locktite, but I just made sure mine were tight. I
haven’t had any problem with the 3 XK engines I have that I
put them in. Some people say that you only need to put the
kit on the exhaust side, but others will suggest doing the
intake also. I have heard that fuel injected/catalytic
convertor cars are more prone to need them. I imagine Dick
Maury would have more info on that.


Dick Maury , Rebuild Dept.- Coventry West, JCNA President
Lithonia, GA, United States
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Hi , Does anyone have the dimensions of a stakedown kit for
a series 3 , I can fabricate them but not the dimensions .
Thanks Mark–
jaguar xj40 sovereign 1990 .Jaguar s3 1982 4.2
adelaide, Australia
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In reply to a message from MarkON sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

The dimensions are rather hard to describe, being
irregular. If you have a picture and a head it is easier
to eork from what’s in front of you (probably).

You could also insert a counterbored Allen head machine
screw overallapping the edge of each tappet to hold it
that way without plates.

Pete–
66 ‘UberLynx’ D, 70 FHC, 79 S2 XJ12L, 97 XJ6L
Gaithersburg, Maryland, United States
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

Just to add, on a search engine if you type ‘xj6 stake down
kit’ and search for images, you quickly get decent pics of
an xk engine with the cam cover removed and the kit fitted.

From that you can see that its a fairly simple affair and
you could ‘knock something up’ rather than needing a proper
engineering process…

cheers–
rich schofield
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In reply to a message from rich schofield sent Wed 27 Apr 2016:

There’s more to machining those plates than you might think,
if you’re doing only one set. A friend needed a set a while
back, and I had one to use as a template. But when you
considered what’s involved, including the little ledges that
fit the tappet guides, we decided that the going price was
worth it. Of course if you have a CNC mill it’s different,
but then the question is how long the setup would take.–
The original message included these comments:

From that you can see that its a fairly simple affair and
you could ‘knock something up’ rather than needing a proper
engineering process…


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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I had looked in the oil filler hole and didn’t see any hold-down, so I
bought a kit. Premature! Later, with the covers removed, I saw the PO had
installed screws to hold things in place.
Here I am with a kit I don’t need.

Gene McGough
XJ6C II 1976
XK-150 FHC S834515DN----- Original Message -----
From: “Robert Wilkinson” wilk@wustl.edu
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 7:31 AM

There’s more to machining those plates than you might think,
if you’re doing only one set. A friend needed a set a while
back, and I had one to use as a template. But when you
considered what’s involved, including the little ledges that
fit the tappet guides, we decided that the going price was
worth it. Of course if you have a CNC mill it’s different,
but then the question is how long the setup would take.

The original message included these comments:

From that you can see that its a fairly simple affair and
you could ‘knock something up’ rather than needing a proper
engineering process…


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States

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OK , after ordering and waiting for a kit , good ol’
australia post have gone and misplaced them , those of you
in Aussie will not find this unusual , so I’ve decided to
make my own . Can anyone tell me the thickness of the steel
to use , I have scoured the net and looked at heaps of
photo’s and 8-10 mm seems to be , does this sound right ?
Thanks Mark–
jaguar xj40 sovereign 1990 .Jaguar s3 1982 4.2
adelaide, Australia
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In reply to a message from MarkON sent Thu 19 May 2016:

Mark!
Drill and tap for a small allen head screw next to
the guide, to hold the guide down.

                              Walter--

Walter Schuster 78XJ6 FI Ser.II, 2002 xtype 3.0
Albuquerque/New Mexico, United States
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In reply to a message from MarkON sent Thu 19 May 2016:

My extra ones (from Terry’s in the US IIRC) are 4.75 mm
thick (3/16 inch). The recessed portion that fits directly
over the tappet guide is 3 mm thick.

As usual, took much longer to find than to measure.–
The original message included these comments:

make my own . Can anyone tell me the thickness of the steel
to use , I have scoured the net and looked at heaps of
photo’s and 8-10 mm seems to be , does this sound right ?


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Thu 19 May 2016:

I have no need for a
‘‘stake down’’ kit.
But, I like Walter’s suggestion.
Elegance in it’s simplicity.

Carl–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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