[xj] " trick" wrench for door removal?

In reply to a message from Cea sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

Cea. You don’t need a trick wrench but you do have to know the
trick (or method).

I take it you are having difficulty getting to the bolts on the
bottom hinge, top one is easy to get too. Open the door half way
and you can reach the bolts through the crack that has opened
between the door and the fender.

You might want to put some sort of sturdy support under the door
while it is in this position or your gap will close up quickly when
the door starts to drop out of position. I have found it is easier
to release the bottom hinge before I move to work on the top one.

One other thing. To protect the paint work from getting damaged I
always put some protective tape down the edges of the door and
fender, wraping it carefully over the edges of both. This protects
the paint on the edges if I happen to come in contact with them
with the wrench I am using. This little extra step is worth all the
effort.–
The original message included these comments:

Is there a ‘‘trick’’ wrench for removing the FRONT doors from a S3 xj-
6? For the life of me I have tried searching on this site, but it
does not seem to accept ‘‘door removal’’ as a boolean search.


Bob
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In reply to a message from Peddlarbob sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

Bob;

This is the sort of stuff that hte manuals just don’t write in!!

I don’t plan on any door removal soon, but it will stick in my mind.

I bet David Boger has a plan.

Carl–
The original message included these comments:

I take it you are having difficulty getting to the bolts on the
bottom hinge, top one is easy to get too. Open the door half way
and you can reach the bolts through the crack that has opened
between the door and the fender.


Carl Hutchins
Walnut Creek, California, United States
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In reply to a message from cadjag sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

Carl. The removing the door part is real easy compared with the
replacing that stupid little retaining spring on the upper hinge.
Seems like it should be such a simple job when you first look at
it. Struggled with that for about four days on my #31 Black Cherry
before I found out how to do it. Main thing for me was that I did
not want to leave any marks on the paint especially around and on
the hinge itself.–
The original message included these comments:

This is the sort of stuff that hte manuals just don’t write in!!


Bob
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In reply to a message from Peddlarbob sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

Of course that spring I was referring too is on the lower hings not
upper one. I really got to start reading my posts before I hit send.–
The original message included these comments:

Carl. The removing the door part is real easy compared with the
replacing that stupid little retaining spring on the upper hinge.


Bob
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PeddlarBob,
I have a missing door stay spring on the driver’s door on my Series III. What is the procedure you discovered for R&R of that spring?
Greg Bernier
XJ6 Ser.III, XK120DHC, Mark IX

To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xj] " trick" wrench for door removal?
The removing the door part is real easy compared with the> replacing that stupid little retaining spring on the upper hinge.
Seems like it should be such a simple job when you first look at
it. Struggled with that for about four days on my #31 Black Cherry
before I found out how to do it. Main thing for me was that I did
not want to leave any marks on the paint especially around and on
the hinge itself.

The original message included these comments:

This is the sort of stuff that hte manuals just don’t write in!!

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me Too! Have the spring, can’t figure it out short of pulling the door,
and i aint gonna do that right now…

Ken
Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ
87 SIII VdP
135,000 miles,
Pace… Space… Grace…----- Original Message -----
From: “Greg Bernier” gregjag@hotmail.com
To: xj@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:39
Subject: [xj] Door stay spring

PeddlarBob,
I have a missing door stay spring on the driver’s door on my Series
III. What is the procedure you discovered for R&R of that spring?
Greg Bernier
XJ6 Ser.III, XK120DHC, Mark IX

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Gang: Bob gave a complete description of how he does this, and the
tool he built, on 3 Feb 2006…it’s in the Archives under “door
hinge” and I recommend looking it up…it’s too long to re-type, by
me at least.
It seems to me there may have been a follow-up by someone that made
it even more simple so it might be worth doing a longer search.
But as is frequently the case, the answer is in the archives!
Bill
S1(Lump) &S3(V12)
Homer,AlaskaOn Oct 24, 2007, at 9:04 AM, Peddlarbob wrote:

In reply to a message from cadjag sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

Carl. The removing the door part is real easy compared with the
replacing that stupid little retaining spring on the upper hinge.
Seems like it should be such a simple job when you first look at
it. Struggled with that for about four days on my #31 Black Cherry
before I found out how to do it. Main thing for me was that I did
not want to leave any marks on the paint especially around and on
the hinge itself.

Bob

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In reply to a message from Greg Bernier sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

I don’t have a series III to look at but our shop manager
struggeled with a XJ 40 for about seven hours. I told hiom
to take a break before he broke something and then I used a
trim tool to spoon it in place. Five minutes.–
The original message included these comments:

I have a missing door stay spring on the driver's door on my Series III. What is the procedure you discovered for R&R of that spring?

Subject: Re: [xj] ‘’ trick’’ wrench for door removal?
replacing that stupid little retaining spring on the upper hinge.


equiprx
Pacifica, CA, United States
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Okay Steve!
What did you do?
Or is it just one of those things you have to see ??
I just found my new spring the other day and I want to do it before I
lose it again, and I never built Bob’s tool…
BillOn Oct 24, 2007, at 10:57 AM, equiprx wrote:

In reply to a message from Greg Bernier sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

I don’t have a series III to look at but our shop manager
struggeled with a XJ 40 for about seven hours. I told hiom
to take a break before he broke something and then I used a
trim tool to spoon it in place. Five minutes.

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thanks Bill… Thanks Bob.
ken>

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In reply to a message from William de Creeft sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

The ‘‘S’’ shaped door retainer clip can be installed without
disturbing the hinge or removing anything from the car. I was told
there is a GM tool available to do this job but when I borrowed it
it would not work on the Jaguar spring.

The problem I faced was I could see lots of way to get it on but
each of those methods would probably have left marks on the hinge.
Seeing this was my Concours car and all marks earn points
deductions. That would not have been acceptable to me.

I ended up making a tool which consisted of a dog legged shaped
piece of metal 7 inches long of 1/4’’ thick by 1/2’’ wide and I
welding two small blocks on it to allow it to be used as both a
holding in place and a twisting tool. Place the spring over the
hinge in the general position it sits in with the bottom leg
located properly deep in the bottom of the hinge. Then using this
tool, place it over the top of the spring so that the blocks allow
you to twist the top part of the spring into position. While still
holding the spring in a tensed position, tap on top of the spring
to drive it down into a locked position. All done.

In short the spring locates in a slot at both the bottom and top of
the hinge. The slot one at the bottom of the hinge is deeper than
the top one, allowing more movement on the spring. You have to be
able to keep the bottom leg located as deep as possible while you
are twisting the spring and locating over the top slot. Then by
tapping on the top you are driving the spring down to locate in the
top slot, while not allowing the bottom part to pop out.

Hope this helps someone.
The ‘‘S’’ shaped door retainer clip can be installed without
disturbing the hinge or removing anything from the car. I was told
there is a GM tool available to do this job but when I borrowed one
it would not work on the Jaguar spring.

The problem I faced was, I could see lots of way to get it on but
each of those methods would probably have left marks on the hinge.
Seeing this was my Concours car and all marks earn points
deductions. That would not have been acceptable to me.

I ended up making a tool which consisted of a dog legged shaped
piece of metal 7 inches long of 1/4’’ thick by 1/2’’ wide. I welding
two small blocks on it to allow it to be used as both a holding in
place and a twisting tool. Place the spring over the hinge in the
general position it sits in with the bottom leg located properly,
which is deep in the bottom of the hinge. Then using this tool,
place it over the top of the spring so that the blocks allow you to
twist the top part of the spring into position. While still holding
the spring in a tensed position, tap on top of the spring to drive
it down into a locked position which would be located into the slot
at the top of the hinge.

All done.

In short the spring locates in a slots at both the bottom and top
of the hinge. The slot at the bottom of the hinge is deeper than
the top one, allowing more upwards movement on the spring. You have
to be able to keep the bottom leg located as deep as possible while
you are twisting the spring and locating over the slot in the top
of the hinge. Then by tapping on the top of the spring you are
driving the spring down to locate in this top slot. Trick is to do
this while not allowing the bottom part to pop out of the slot at
the bottom of the hinge.

Hope this helps someone.–
The original message included these comments:

What did you do?
Or is it just one of those things you have to see ??
I just found my new spring the other day and I want to do it before I
lose it again, and I never built Bob’s tool…
Bill


Bob
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In reply to a message from Ken Davis sent Wed 24 Oct 2007:

HI All

Normally when I remove a front door from any of the Series 3 cars,
the only tool that I need is an adjustable 13MM (?) ratcheting
wrench (Craftsman).
I do it with the door fully open, not partially or through the
crack.
The ratcheting action gets me through the tight spots. I simply
hold the wiring out of the way, and take it right off. I don’t have
to remove the spring from the hinge that way.

Good luck with it
David Boger
www.everydayxj.com–
69 XJ6, 75 XJ12, 84 XJ6, Bunches of parts cars
Rockwell, NC, United States
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I notice everybody makes sure to mention “Series 3” am
I right in assuming its not as easy as that on a
Series 2? I have to do mine(sagging hinges) and have
been putting it off for quite a while.

Nick
1975 XJ6L
2000XJR— DavidBoger davidteriboger@aol.com wrote:

In reply to a message from Ken Davis sent Wed 24 Oct
2007:

HI All

Normally when I remove a front door from any of the
Series 3 cars,
the only tool that I need is an adjustable 13MM (?)
ratcheting
wrench (Craftsman).
I do it with the door fully open, not partially or
through the
crack.

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In reply to a message from DavidBoger sent Thu 25 Oct 2007:

Hummm. The top bolt at the rear hits the front fender edge when you
have the door wide open and the bottom bolt hits the hinge. I also
don’t believe I said anything about the having to remove the spring
when removing the door. There again we all have to accept that
there is always more than one way to skin a cat. :)–
The original message included these comments:

Normally when I remove a front door from any of the Series 3 cars,
the only tool that I need is an adjustable 13MM (?) ratcheting
wrench (Craftsman).


Bob
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In reply to a message from Peddlarbob sent Thu 25 Oct 2007:

Hey Bob

I wasn’t disagreeing with any of your comments. In fact, I’m sure
I’ll be using some of your suggestions. I’m simply adding what I’ve
done in the past, and what’s worked for me.
I know there are bunches of ways to skin cats, and I’m sure you’ve
skinned alot more of them than me in your time :slight_smile:

David–
The original message included these comments:

Hummm. The top bolt at the rear hits the front fender edge when you
have the door wide open and the bottom bolt hits the hinge. I also
don’t believe I said anything about the having to remove the spring
when removing the door. There again we all have to accept that
there is always more than one way to skin a cat. :slight_smile:


69 XJ6, 75 XJ12, 84 XJ6, Bunches of parts cars
Rockwell, NC, United States
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In reply to a message from DavidBoger sent Thu 25 Oct 2007:

Hey watch it now I ain’t that old. Well not really but everything
still functions well :)–
The original message included these comments:

I know there are bunches of ways to skin cats, and I’m sure you’ve
skinned alot more of them than me in your time :slight_smile:


Bob
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I haven’t noticed a difference, but I haven’t tried either of ours.–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

NICHOLAS GILLITT wrote:

I notice everybody makes sure to mention “Series 3” am
I right in assuming its not as easy as that on a
Series 2? I have to do mine(sagging hinges) and have
been putting it off for quite a while.

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In reply to a message from NICHOLAS GILLITT sent Thu 25 Oct 2007:

Nick

It’s almost no different on an SII. The hinges, while not
identical, are interchangeable. And I always skin my knuckles on
both of them.–
The original message included these comments:

I right in assuming its not as easy as that on a
Series 2? I have to do mine(sagging hinges) and have


al mclean '93 XJS 4.0 - '84 4.2 Daimler - '84 DD6
Telford, United Kingdom
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Thanks Al,
The reason I ask is that I purchased a set of rear
door hinges from a 1984 S3 with the intention of
putting them on my 1975 S2. Here is what I found…

Lowers: The half of the hinge that fixes to the door
pillar is an exact replacement. This is the half that
carries the pin in the center section of the hinge
mechanism. The S3 half that attatches to the door has
a different mounting pattern to the S2 door so you
need to use the original S2 half - if not too worn.
Swopping out the door pillar half and the pin fixed
the sagging problem.

Uppers: Upon inspection do not match at all, different
mounting pattern on door and this time the door
mounted half of the hinge carries the center section
of the hinge as opposed to the pillar mounted part of
the hinge.

I fear that this would be the same for the fronts but
have not dared to look yet. Still with a paint job
beckoning and new door rubbers etc. they need to be
done.

Anyone out there successfully replaced door hinges
(front and back) for an S2 and have any tips, insider
knowledge ?

Cheers
Nick
1975 XJ6L
2000 XJR— almcl al.mclean@blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

In reply to a message from NICHOLAS GILLITT sent Thu
25 Oct 2007:

Nick

It’s almost no different on an SII. The hinges,
while not identical, are interchangeable.

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