[xj] Waxoyl Application

Paul

Yes the idea is to dilute the Waxoyl with white spirit to thin it out a little
and allow the spitit to evaporate and leave the Waxoyl in place. It is also
good practice to heat the Waxoyl BEFORE applying it to make it easier
to find its way around generally and blind cavities in particular. This can
be achieved by placing the can of Waxoyl in a bucket of hot water first.

The advantage is that the mixture has a uniform temperature prior to
application which is such to allow wide penetration as it ‘flows’ as
opposed to localised heat applied later which is more hit and miss.

Regards

           Steve-----------------------------------------------------------------

Stephen Gibson
Supercat Jaguar Spares
www.supercatjaguarspares.freeserve.co.uk

From: Paul Clarkson p.c.clarkson@ntlworld.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 5:34 PM

I have used Waxoyl in
the past… often thinned down with white spirits for the first application.
Also, heat carefully applied with a hot air gun after waxoyling makes it
thin out and run around the joints better

===================================================
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Steve, this is my technique:

Thinning with white spirit as much as 50/50 for a first coat helps to ensure
the waxoyl creeps into the joints as much as possible. I let this first
coat dry out as much as possible, so I have a thin layer of Waxoyl in the
cavities. I then warm the can in a bucket of water (this just makes it into
a thinner consistency for the spray) and, using Waxoyls pressure pump cans
and their probe, spray a thin-medium layer into the section. This is where
the skill comes in… too much tends to build up and slump to the bottom…
wasteful.

Using a heat gun, I warm the areas (watch the paint) around welded joints so
the consistency thins out and runs into the joints as much as possible. I
will do this until I see it running out of drain holes in the doors and
sills. Warming the can before spraying makes it thinner to spray, but as
soon as it hits the metal it will cool and thicken, therefore not permeating
the joints and crevices. I let this dry out for a couple of days and then
give it all another thin coating of straight waxoyl. I also use the black
version of Waxoyl to help see any parts I’ve missed.

The long extension probe from Waxoyl is a bit of a dismal affair. It’s a
plastic tube with pinholes in the sides and a nail in the end. I improved
it with more pinholes made with drawing pins pushed in at various angles and
blocked the end. I tested by spraying water to make sure it sprays 360
degrees and fowards and backwards… in other words, as much of a sphere
shape as possible.

I am just about to go over my Daimler again. I did it last year but some
body work has been done since. I am going to wait until we have had a
decent spell of warm, dry weather (IN ENGLAND???) to make sure the car is
dry and apply it on a hot day.

Yes the idea is to dilute the Waxoyl with white spirit to thin it out a
little
and allow the spitit to evaporate and leave the Waxoyl in place. It is also
good practice to heat the Waxoyl BEFORE applying it to make it easier
to find its way around generally and blind cavities in particular. This can
be achieved by placing the can of Waxoyl in a bucket of hot water first.

The advantage is that the mixture has a uniform temperature prior to
application which is such to allow wide penetration as it ‘flows’ as
opposed to localised heat applied later which is more hit and miss.<<===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
FAQs: http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/xjfaq.html
Archives: http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/search.html

To remove yourself from this list, go to http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.

I know it is a long time since 2001 but is there a plan for cavity injection points? Rustbuster published an example for the MGB. Ideally it would be drilling points to protect the problem cavities. Again ideally with carpets etc fitted.
Pete