Hello
I’ve disconnected the sway bar, removed the road wheels and one outer tie rod but still can’t seem to wiggle the sway bar out from the car.
Any tips, am i missing something or did the service manual lie?
Thank you===================================================
The archives and FAQ will answer many queries on the XJ series…
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It lied. Lower the front of the subframe about 1-2" and it’ll come out
Cheers
Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJRFrom: “IAN JENKINS” ianjenkins@rogers.com
I’ve disconnected the sway bar, removed the road wheels and one outer tie
rod but still can’t seem to wiggle the sway bar out from the car.
Any tips, am i missing something or did the service manual lie?
In reply to a message from Doug Dwyer sent Fri 19 Dec 2008:
Doug,
If you please, is this a matter of elevating the front end,
supporting the subframe separately with a jack, removing the two
large bolts securing the bushings, lowering the jack 1-2’', remove
the old bar, put in the new and jack up the subframe again?
Thanks for your help.
Chuck–
The original message included these comments:
It lied. Lower the front of the subframe about 1-2’’ and it’ll come out
Small details, if any, have been long forgotten by me
Cheers
Doug Dwyer
Longview Washington USA
1995 XJRFrom: “Chuck Stone” cpstone@cavtel.net
If you please, is this a matter of elevating the front end,
supporting the subframe separately with a jack, removing the two
large bolts securing the bushings, lowering the jack 1-2’', remove
the old bar, put in the new and jack up the subframe again?
I just want to confirm what this and the ROM seem to say.: it’s OK to lower the front and rear of the front subframe (independently not front and rear of the subframe lowered at the same time) to replace the subframe mounts with the engine unsupported? So everything will cant down but nothing will rip apart? Thanks
I‘d be very careful and put some blocks,… under the subframe so your maximum travel is an inch or maybe two, whatever you think you need. I think there is enough flex, but I‘d do the front first. The rear engine mount has sufficient flex. Maybe the fan can hit the radiator, I don’t know about this but it won’t be enough. I haven’t done this but I think it works.
1-2“ obviously work so if you should need significantly more, caution advised. Sounds manageable.
I never had any success getting the sway bar out without dropping the front cross member. Keep in mind the engine is supported from the cross member. You may want to consider loosening or unbolting the front engine mounts, and support the engine via a floor jack. I used an engine support bar. Like this one
David wants to change the rubber, leave the sway bar in. The engine support could be fabricated but if one left the engine supported by the IFS it should be possible to reach the parts as per the book? As long as it can’t fall down much should things go wrong, it can be tried, it is well worth to find out.
And I would pull the AFM duct as well as inspect the exhaust carefully, I can imagine that the supports and tailpipes will bind eventually, should the exhaust be left alone.
If I made an engine support brace and removed the subframe it would end up painted and all new…
Changing the rubber can most definitely be done without monkey’ing with the IFS. It’s a bit fiddly but it can be done. I’ve done it a couple of times.
Wheels off,
Remove the end links,
You’ll need a series of ratchet extensions that will reach the top bolt of the sway bar bracket from the top of the wing about a meter total length combined. If you have a wobbly extension for the socket that will help. Otherwise a universal joint at the end where the socket attaches to the series of extensions.
A boxed end spanner to hold the nut below. I wedged it between the frame so it wouldn’t spin while I loosened the bolt from the top.
The brackets are not the same for both sides so when putting it back together be sure to keep the two sides separate. There is just enough of a difference where the holes won’t line up.
I’ve done a couple of Alternator replacements posts. a more detailed description on how to remove the swaybar mount and refit bushings are listed in the alternator post. but in a nut shell, that’s how I did it.
I don’t think I have a video or picture of this process. Sorry.
But yes, the rubbers can be replaced without removing the swaybar.
I know the original subject here is the sway bar but in it there is a post about replacing the subframe mounts by just lowering, not removing, the subframe. That is what I am asking about as Davidsxj6 has addressed. The ROM actually describes this as how to do the subframe mount replacement. So, I think I will try it but take care to ensure things don’t go to far and rip the brake lines or damage the steering, etc., etc… I will put blocks below to limit travel and, since I do have an engine support beam, I may also limit the travel from above.
Thanks
David
PS. I forgot. While the subframe is down, if this works, I will replace the anti-roll bar bushings where it is attached to the body.
I have replaced the front mounts to the front subframe as per the ROM. It was easy and while down, I also replaced the bushings for the the sway bar. Unfortunately, I carelessly damaged the big nut that goes on the bolt that passes through the body and the front subframe mounts. I can’t find one in stock in the US so I have one coming from the UK. Until then, the damaged bolt is on the car but I won’t be driving it! Meanwhile, I will see about the rear mounts to the front subframe and taking out a front spring to add a packing ring to fix a slight sag on the drivers side.
