In reply to a message from coveralls sent Tue 2 Jan 2007:
Many forum members have done this job - search the ‘Modern’
and ‘XJ40’ forums under ‘new head gasket’ or similar
terminology to read up on others experience.
I did mine some years ago and it’s not rocket science!
First, get a Haynes Manual. The procedures in there are
pretty good - the only major difference in my case is that I
did not totally remove the inlet manifold from the car -
just unbolted it and lay it on the left inner wing after
removing the air filter box and MAF and displacing the
Dave and Pat Lokensgard did a picture sequence of the job on
their car :-
You will need a camshaft setting tool to get the valve
timing correct, but you can easily make one that I designed
instead of the factory special tool:-
You will need a deep OHC valve spring compressor too.
There are other sources of information � one I like in
particular is an article in the October 2001 edition of
Jaguar Monthly � the UK magazine but I don�t think you can
order back issues of that edition. However, they did another
article in the April and May 2005 editions of Jaguar World
Monthly for which you should be able to get back issues:-
Both of these have dozens of colour illustrations and step
by step instructions for doing the job.
Some other advice off the top of my head -
Make sure you get a genuine OEM Jaguar gasket set - it
contains everything you need to do the job including a full
set of 24 valve stem seals so you can fit seals to the
exhaust side for the first time
You do NOT need to replace all of the 14 head bolts
particularly if you believe that this is the first time the
head has been removed.- but pay strict attention to the
method of tightening them on re-fitment.
Take your time - allow a full week of evenings and
weekends to do the gasket and a complete valve job to clean
them up and lap the seats.
Before you unbolt the head, measure and note the exact
valve clearances so that you know if you need to fit
different shims on re-build and keep all
valve/spring/collet/cap/cam follower bucket and shim set
together, clearly identified to their original location in
the head so they are re-fitted from whence they came.
Be prepared to find corrosion / erosion damage around the
coolant passages in the head which you may have to get
filled with JB weld (or aluminum weld if bad) and machine
skimmed to resurface the head. Also be prepared to find
warping in the two exhaust manifolds which you may also need
to get machined flat.
Apart from that - enjoy! :-)–
The original message included these comments:
Losing fluid, oil in the coolant, milky oil cap. Steam in the
exhaust. My initial checking puts repair by a shop that’ll do it
at &1300=$1700. I’m not a stranger to auto repair, but I’ve never
tried to replace a head gasket. I need advice.
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, (RHD)
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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