well it never seems to end does it…if you followed a recent post
of mine concerning replacement of the driveshaft center bearing and
jurid you know it took me 2-3 weeks for me to finally get through
those issues…just when I thought I had straighten out all of the
issues on my '93 the front crankshaft seal decides to go bad and
now I am leaking oil badly…the good news is that this happened
before my planned trip this coming W/E that will be a 6 hour drive
one way…the bad news is it will be about 2 weeks before I will
have time to replace the front seal…i have priced the seal and
it is not too expensive at around $60…i am also going to replace
all of my belts while I have them off…my question is does anyone
have any tips or pointers about this job?..i have searched the
archives and did not find any info…apparently failure of this
seal is rare, but I do have 210K miles on my beauty…can anyone
tell me what size socket will fit the cranshaft securing
nut?..the job appears to be pretty staraight forward…all belts,
electric fans/shroud, and radiator have to be removed to gain
access but that should not be too big a deal…–
Cliff - '93 XJ40 Sovereign (4.0L)
Lancaster/South Carolina, United States
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In a message dated 3/20/2006 8:34:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, “Cliff Archie” archie01@comporium.net writes:
now I am leaking oil badly…my question is does anyone
have any tips or pointers about this job?
Hi Cliff:
I replaced the front crankshaft oil seal on my 89 about 5 years ago when I replaced the head gasket and timing chain dampers. Prying the old seal out & installing a new one is NOT a hard job. I also replaced the crankshaft damper several years ago in a separate operation, so what you need is basically the procedure used to remove/replace the damper. You do NOT have to remove the radiator to get the damper off, but you might have better access to the seal if you do. Here’s the procedure:
Car on ramps
Remove 4 nuts (incrementally) securing fan clutch; remove 2 clips securing shroud
Lift shroud & fan together to remove
Remove Belts; see separate procedure for Alt & Compressor pivot points to loosen belts
Remove rubber plug on access port beneath starter to access flywheel bolts (15mm)
Position with 15mm deep socket & 3/8" extension/ratchet on one of flywheel bolts to prevent rotation
Remove 1-5/16" bolt securing damper/pulley assembly to crank & collect key
Sand paint from rebuilt damper keyway & crank seat
Install new Damper & Torque bolt to 150 Ft-Lb
Remove 15mm socket & replace plug
Refit Belts, Fan & Shroud
George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP
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thanks George…sounds straight forward…–
Cliff - '93 XJ40 Sovereign (4.0L)
Lancaster/South Carolina, United States
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George…one question…you mention the crankshaft bolt as being 1
5/16’’ in size…this seems odd in that all other nuts and bolts ar
metric size…can you confirm this is correct?..–
The original message included these comments:
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In reply to a message from Cliff Archie sent Mon 20 Mar 2006:
sorry, one more…what size bolts did you use with the puller to
remove the damper/pulley?..they appear to be about 10mm…–
Cliff - '93 XJ40 Sovereign (4.0L)
Lancaster/South Carolina, United States
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In a message dated 3/20/2006 10:43:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, “Cliff Archie” archie01@comporium.net writes:
you mention the crankshaft bolt as being 1
5/16’’ in size…this seems odd in that all other nuts and bolts ar
metric size…can you confirm this is correct?
The bolt may actually be 33mm which is slightly smaller than the SAE size 1-5/16", but I can confirm that I used that SAE size, as I do NOT have a metric socket bigger than 30mm.
I just used a gear puller (no bolts) to remove the damper after removing the bolt. I believe the tapped threads in the face of the damper are for use of a special tool to hold the crankshaft (prevent crank rotation) while loosening/tightening the crankshaft bolt. Anchoring the flywheel as described in my procedure will work if you don’t have the special Jaguar tool (18G 1437).
George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP
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Several years since I did this job on my 1989 XJ40 but it sticks in my mind
for two reasons:
had to buy a 33mm socket and three foot breaker bar to remove the pulley
nut
had to buy a harmonic balance puller to remove the pulley
none of which have been used since which at least says something for the
reliability of first the X300 and recently the X308 which replaced my XJ40.
The pulley nut was unbelievably tight and the flywheel had to be locked with
a large flat bladed screwdriver though the access hole in the bottom of the
bellhousing to prevent the engine turning.
As you say, seal failure seems rare and I only replaced mine because the
timing cover was removed to replace chains and dampers. Timing cover doesn’t
need to be removed just to replace the seal and it was easier to fit the new
seal with the cover back on.
The seal had a bright yellow plastic sleeve through the middle to prevent
damage to the lip whilst it was being fitted. I think I used an old front
wheel bearing carrier to drive the new seal in. It certainly didn’t take
much tapping into position but I do recall not having a suitable diameter
socket or section of pipe and had to improvise. Once in place, the yellow
sleeve is removed by sliding it off the crankshaft nose which leaves the
seal lip properly positioned on the crankshaft.
Graham Gardner
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 14:34:37 +0100
From: “Cliff Archie” archie01@comporium.net
Subject: [xj40] front crankshaft oil seal…
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>just when I thought I had straighten out all of the
issues on my '93 the front crankshaft seal decides to go bad and
now I am leaking oil badly…my question is does anyone
have any tips or pointers about this job?..i have searched the
archives and did not find any info…apparently failure of this
seal is rare
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<SNIP
Cliff - '93 XJ40 Sovereign (4.0L)
Lancaster/South Carolina, United States
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A quick way to remove the nut is to put the wrench on the nut with the
wrench held securely in place then hit the starter. Sounds scary but it
isn’t.
You will need to make sure the starter turns the nut in the right direction
to undo it - and I suspect this is a given, and also disable the ignition so
the engine can’t run.
David Hurlston
ViaData LP-----Original Message-----
The pulley nut was unbelievably tight and the flywheel had to be locked with
a large flat bladed screwdriver though the access hole in the bottom of the
bellhousing to prevent the engine turning.
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In reply to a message from David Hurlston sent Mon 20 Mar 2006:
Yes, but don’t lock the flywheel AND do that! :-)–
The original message included these comments:
As an aside…
A quick way to remove the nut is to put the wrench on the nut with the
wrench held securely in place then hit the starter. Sounds scary but it
isn’t.
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In reply to a message from David Hurlston sent Mon 20 Mar 2006:
thanks guys…i have a long breaker bar and I am fairly strong for
my old age of 50 so hopefully I can break loose the damper
bolt…if not I also have a 3 foot ‘cheater’ bar I can put on the
end of the breaker bar…if that and my 215 lbs won’t break it
loose I guess I can try the starter trick but that will be a last
resort…i’ll keep the forum posted as to the results so that the
archives will have a record of the process…–
The original message included these comments:
A quick way to remove the nut is to put the wrench on the nut with the
wrench held securely in place then hit the starter. Sounds scary but it
isn’t.
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from Cliff Archie sent Mon 20 Mar 2006:
Cliff,
I found the biggest problem was gettng the large nut off the
crankshaft…It is ABOUT 1 1/15 inch or so…My 17 year old son
could not keep the crank still at the flywheel as suggested in the
book.
I ended up taking out the radiator and condesnser and grill to get
enough room to fit my air wrench on it…
You will also need a properly sized piece of pipe long enough
to ‘‘press’’ the seal into the motor…I was in a hurry and simply
bought some special 4 wheel drive axle tool that was the right
diameter and depth…
If you can get the large nut off (as many others have done) without
the ‘‘to do’’ I went through it is a straitforward job.
Best of luck.
Regards - Tom–
The original message included these comments:
all of my belts while I have them off…my question is does anyone
have any tips or pointers about this job?..i have searched the
archives and did not find any info…apparently failure of this
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !