Can one side be done at a time or must both be released
before proceeding? Shop time quoted for both was a
fraction over 2 hrs total. Rears are much much more as
they probably drop whole subframe. First want to see if
front bad veemounts will solve the backup braking clunks.–
LarryWard '93XJ40 '81MBZ300TD '95 Dodge4x4 CTD
modesto, ca., United States
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In reply to a message from LaJagy sent Sun 19 Apr 2015:
Larry,
have you inspected visually the V mounts? Did you see any
deterioration on the rubber? When I replaced mine, I did the
left side first. I removed all the bolts then with a pry bar
I gently pried the subframe from the body just enough to get
the old mount out and the new one in. I fastened all the
bolts then did the right side.
Let us know how it goes for you.–
Joseph '94 XJ40 (British Steel, Maiden England) Naples, FL
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In reply to a message from Joe77 sent Mon 20 Apr 2015:
Like Joe said you can do one side at a time but ideally you want to
replace both sides.Typically the rubber in the vee mount crushes or
flattens with age so if you only do one side the body may be a bit
higher on on side than the other.When I replaced my vee mounts it
raised the body approx 5/8 inch from what it had been with the old
mounts.You can check the mounts visually by removing a wheel and
using a pry bar to see if the rubber has separated from the steel
bracket-which is what mine had done. Cary–
The original message included these comments:
have you inspected visually the V mounts? Did you see any
deterioration on the rubber? When I replaced mine, I did the
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In reply to a message from Joe77 sent Mon 20 Apr 2015:
Joe, if I read it correctly, you did not need to lift engine
via a jack, etc., just pry bar through external wheel well
access was adequate to lift and remove and replace veemounts?
And do you recall size of pry bar and whether it worked best
fore or aft of actual mount?–
The original message included these comments:
left side first. I removed all the bolts then with a pry bar
I gently pried the subframe from the body just enough to get
the old mount out and the new one in. I fastened all the
bolts then did the right side.
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In reply to a message from LaJagy sent Wed 29 Apr 2015:
Larry,
when I did one side I put a hydraulic jack under the
subframe on that side because I didn’t know what happens
after loosening the bolts. I was afraid that the subframe
would drop more than needed. I didn’t hold the engine with a
strap or anything. I removed the bolts then lowered the jack
slowly. But the gap wasn’t big enough to get the mount out
so I actually used a fork type of tool that you put in a
jackhammer. And with that I gently pried the subframe and
pushed out the mount forward.–
Joseph '94 XJ40 (British Steel, Maiden England) Naples, FL
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A very useful thread for attempting this job.
Just done this on a V12 driver’s side and was also able to remove the old mount and install the new one without any major dismantling. All that was necessary was to jack up the car under the body, remove the road wheel and the upper shock nut and allow the front sub frame to hang free. I tried using a crow bar to make enough room to get the new mount in but found I needed to loosen the upper bolts on the opposite vee mount as well which allowed just enough space to get the mount in. Total time was about 2 hours.
The reason for the failure of the mount on this side was an oil leak from the power steering reservoir located above the mount and also from the PAS filter on the V12 car which had turned the rubber to jelly and caused the upper and lower rubber blocks of the mount to separate.