[xj40] Fuel Line Check Valve Installation Photos

XJ40
1

For the archives I have uploaded photos of my recent work to
install a fuel line check valve. The original valve failed
long ago, and since it was part of the fuel pump housing
mounted in the fuel tank on our '93 car, it was much easier
to just insert a new check valve in the line between the
tank and fuel filter.

I am indebted to Win for recommending both the installation
of a check valve and inexpensive parts available from
McMaster-Carr. He also provided details of how he installed
a valve in his car.

I initially installed the check valve at the fuel rail,
along with a new fuel pressure regulator. Cold starting
improved, but I still felt it could be better. When
aerostarflyr told me off-line that he’d learned from a check
valve vendor that the valve should be as close to the tank
as possible, I decided that when I dropped the IRS to
rebuild the differential, I would move the check valve near
the tank. This made a noticeable improvement and cold
starting now requires fewer cranks than it has in many years
(typically just a couple of revs before it fires up).

Thanks for your help, Win and aerostarflyr!

As I recall, Win used a 1/8 in. pipe size check valve. I
first ordered a 3/8 in. pipe size valve but decided it was
just too physically large. I split the difference and
ordered a 1/4 in. valve and was very happy with its size
relative to the fuel lines in our car. Here are the parts I
ordered from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) (typical
disclaimers):

Brass Check Valve, Fluoroelastomer Seal (important for use
with gasoline), 1/4 in. pipe size, Catalog No. 7768K56
$11.02 U.S.

Brass Hose Barbs, 5/16in.hose size, 1/4in. pipe size,
package of 5, Catalog No. 5346K53 $9.25 U.S.

By the way, Bryan N has posted an excellent procedure for
testing both the check valve and fuel pressure regulator.
If you don’t want to go to the trouble of building a test
rig like Bryan’s, then I strongly recommend that you replace
the fuel pressure regulator at the same time you install the
check valve. It will do no good for the check valve to
prevent pressure from being relieved back toward the tank if
the fuel pressure regulator has failed and relieves the
pressure anyway. I shopped around and found a new Bosch
fuel pressure regulator for $62.00 U.S. from a seller at
Amazon (typical disclaimers). There were even more
affordable FPRs listed on ebay, from manufacturers that
included Beck Arnley, SMP/Standard, Airtex and others, but I
decided to spend a little more for the Bosch.

I hope the photos are helpful.

Cheers,

Don

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1362701845&n4=--
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 189K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
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2

Don.
This is a brilliant write up of the procedure that you carried out,
congratulations.
With my non return valve I used an Aluminium (sorry I’m a POM) NRV that was
totally self contained which removed any fear of the barbs unscrewing under
vibration.
Also I inserted mine a little further away than you did in the first
instance.
Mine is on the verticle rise of the fuel hose in the engine bay.
I must say I was impressed by the clarity of the photos until I reached the
one where you said that the IRS had been removed for repair. That made a lot
more sense as I could not recall that much space being available around the
diff :slight_smile:

Regards Robin O’Connor
'92 XJ40 4.0 Ltr
Auckland NZ----- Original Message -----
From: “Don B” dnbyr@aol.com
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 6:55 PM
Subject: [xj40] Fuel Line Check Valve Installation Photos

For the archives I have uploaded photos of my recent work to
install a fuel line check valve. The original valve failed
long ago, and since it was part of the fuel pump housing
mounted in the fuel tank on our '93 car, it was much easier
to just insert a new check valve in the line between the
tank and fuel filter.

I am indebted to Win for recommending both the installation
of a check valve and inexpensive parts available from
McMaster-Carr. He also provided details of how he installed
a valve in his car.

I initially installed the check valve at the fuel rail,
along with a new fuel pressure regulator. Cold starting
improved, but I still felt it could be better. When
aerostarflyr told me off-line that he’d learned from a check
valve vendor that the valve should be as close to the tank
as possible, I decided that when I dropped the IRS to
rebuild the differential, I would move the check valve near
the tank. This made a noticeable improvement and cold
starting now requires fewer cranks than it has in many years
(typically just a couple of revs before it fires up).

Thanks for your help, Win and aerostarflyr!

As I recall, Win used a 1/8 in. pipe size check valve. I
first ordered a 3/8 in. pipe size valve but decided it was
just too physically large. I split the difference and
ordered a 1/4 in. valve and was very happy with its size
relative to the fuel lines in our car. Here are the parts I
ordered from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) (typical
disclaimers):

Brass Check Valve, Fluoroelastomer Seal (important for use
with gasoline), 1/4 in. pipe size, Catalog No. 7768K56
$11.02 U.S.

Brass Hose Barbs, 5/16in.hose size, 1/4in. pipe size,
package of 5, Catalog No. 5346K53 $9.25 U.S.

By the way, Bryan N has posted an excellent procedure for
testing both the check valve and fuel pressure regulator.
If you don’t want to go to the trouble of building a test
rig like Bryan’s, then I strongly recommend that you replace
the fuel pressure regulator at the same time you install the
check valve. It will do no good for the check valve to
prevent pressure from being relieved back toward the tank if
the fuel pressure regulator has failed and relieves the
pressure anyway. I shopped around and found a new Bosch
fuel pressure regulator for $62.00 U.S. from a seller at
Amazon (typical disclaimers). There were even more
affordable FPRs listed on ebay, from manufacturers that
included Beck Arnley, SMP/Standard, Airtex and others, but I
decided to spend a little more for the Bosch.

I hope the photos are helpful.

Cheers,

Don

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1362701845&n4=

–
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 189K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting
services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On
Line Books and more !

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !

3

In reply to a message from Robin and Maureen O’Connor sent Fri 8 Mar 2013:

Hi Robin!

I do think the all-in-one self-contained check valves would
be an even better choice, and they don’t cost that much
more. I believe that is what aerostarflyr is planning to
use so we’ll look forward to his report.

I did look at the fuel line at the vertical rise in the
engine bay but I had that nagging concern about needing to
immobilize the valve to reduce the chance of leaks. I
wasn’t so concerned about the barbs un-threading from the
valve body as I was about the mass of the valve itself
vibrating or oscillating and causing the hose to weaken as
the barbs moved around with the valve. Brass is much denser
than either aluminium OR aluminum :-), so it was possible
the valve could exert considerable force on the hose as the
car changed directions, traversed rough roads, etc.

Regarding the access while the IRS was out, most folks won’t
have that much room to install the valve. I planned the IRS
rebuild for quite a while before I committed to overhaul the
differential myself, so I had plenty of time to think about
other jobs I should do while the rear end was out of the car.

I should have also mentioned in my post that McMaster-Carr
carries the ABA brand of stainless-steel fuel-line hose
clamps, which are a little expensive but they really are
nice clamps. The catalog just lists them as Type 304
Stainless Steel Clamp with Type 304 Stainless Steel Screw.
I ordered part numbers 53175K26 which the catalog lists as
for hose diamaters of 31/64 in. to 35/64 in. The clamps
themselves are stamped simply 13mm.

Your check valve solution sounds like a great one. Are you
happy with your cold-starts? I’m sure other members would
appreciate any details, where you sourced your valve, etc.

Cheers!

Don–
The original message included these comments:

With my non return valve I used an Aluminium (sorry I’m a POM) NRV that was
totally self contained which removed any fear of the barbs unscrewing under
vibration.
Also I inserted mine a little further away than you did in the first
instance.
Mine is on the verticle rise of the fuel hose in the engine bay.
I must say I was impressed by the clarity of the photos until I reached the
one where you said that the IRS had been removed for repair. That made a lot
more sense as I could not recall that much space being available around the
diff :slight_smile:

–
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 189K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !