[xj40] Gas cap cover flapping in the wind

I promise I won’t rant about how stupid the design is of
placing the gas fill on top of the fender, for all water and
ice to gather.

Anyhow, it is 27F outside with a lot of moisture in the air.
I needed some gas and after getting gas the gas cap cover
won’t close. Yep, that little brass sliding piece is not
moving. This happened before in the winter and some WD40
loosened it but today it won’t loosen. Is it broke or still
frozen?

If it is broken, what is the fix? I think a good magnet
glues to close to the flap would work.

Amazing because right before getting gas it went through my
mind that the cat is working well today.–
John 90 XJ40
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In reply to a message from John S sent Mon 24 Dec 2012:

John,

Sorry to hear of the recent development. Get the magnets
for now, unless of course the locking pin has decided to
come back out. Even if it has decided to re-enlist, it will
be a matter of time before it misbehaves again. See the
follow post just a few months ago…:

Unless you’re a magician, you’re going to have to pull the
tank our at least partially, to get to the Fuel Filler Latch
Box assembly. Even then, the the solenoid/pin is encased in
another assembly attached to the FFLB assembly. You will
need to extract the smaller assembly, then you will be able
to pull out the solenoid with the pin/spring and clean out
the channel they travel in and the components. (see the
pics in the forum post above)

If you can get to this point with as little pain as
possible, you may get lucky and its just a matter of gunk
build-up in the channel. Then again…

In my case the circuit board went south. When power was
applied directly to the solenoid (bypass circuit board), it
behaved properly.

The circuit board is encased in a resin/epoxy type casing
and it is permanently enclosed. It may be different for
you, but I could find no means of separating the casing
without totally destroying it.

My advice before you travel this path… find a FFLB on
ebay or a wrecking yard, if you can, before you pull your
existing FFLB. It’s such a pain.

Get the magnets…

IIRC, and I think it was Pete (jaguarpete) stating in a post
that he managed to pull of the FFLB assembly somehow without dislodging the fuel tank. But, I think that includes
considerable contortionist moves while in the boot and
dealing with tiny screws (gaiter retainer)in order to
separate the gaiter from the FFLB body.

Good luck, let us know.–
The original message included these comments:

won’t close. Yep, that little brass sliding piece is not
moving. This happened before in the winter and some WD40
loosened it but today it won’t loosen. Is it broke or still
frozen?
If it is broken, what is the fix? I think a good magnet
glues to close to the flap would work.


Rob Evenson, '89 XJ40/XJ6, VIN 583143, 125K
Mobile, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from Rob Evenson, sent Mon 24 Dec 2012:

Mine is a manual pull so there is no electric to the thing.
When I bought this car there were several things I didn’t
want and shopped until finding it.

None of these -

Heated door locks
Self leveling system
Electrics to fuel filler
Sun roof

After spraying liberally with WD40 and silicone - the pin
finally popped out. I’m going to try some lithium grease on
it. I think that is what I used last year.

After spending about 15 years with Jags, more and more I am
starting to like simplicity. Why must you pop pen the lid
with a lever? You are going to get out to put gas in so why
not just a spring loaded flap that you pull on? No fuss, no
muss and nothing to eventually brake.

JagaurPete was probably the one because he seems to be able
to accomplish many things that the manual says can’t be done.–
The original message included these comments:

Get the magnets…
IIRC, and I think it was Pete (jaguarpete) stating in a post
that he managed to pull of the FFLB assembly somehow without dislodging the fuel tank. But, I think that includes


John 90 XJ40
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In reply to a message from John S sent Mon 24 Dec 2012:

It is definitely possible to remove and reinstall the Fuel
Filler Latch Box without removing the gas tank.

First, use a dental pick or other suitable tool to remove
the garter spring that secures the gaiter around the fuel
filler neck.

Next, working inside the trunk, remove the black plastic
cover from the left tail lamp (2 black plastic ‘‘star’’ nuts).
Remove the spare tire, jack and tools. Remove the flat
carpet trim panel that covers the fuel tank by pulling the
left edge outward and leftward from behind the battery. The
left fender carpet trim is just tucked into place and can be
carefully pulled out.

Now you have access to the underside of the FFLB. Cut any
plastic ties that secure the FFLB drain tube to the fuel
filler neck. Carefully separate the top end of the drain
tube from the gaiter. If the gaiter is old, it will be
fragile, so treat it with extreme care. Disconnect any
other ties or clips that secure the drain tube, pull its
lower end out of the exit hole in the trunk and lay it aside.

Locate the rubber hose that connects to a fitting on the
forward side of the fuel filler neck, loosen the clamp, pull
the hose off the fitting and tuck it aside.

Remove the long hex-head screws that secure the FFLB to the
fender underside. I think there are 4 of them and they’re a
small size like 7mm or 8mm. A 3- or 4-inch extension on a
1/4-inch ratchet helps access the screws. Removing these
screws first will permit limited movement of the FFLB for
the next step.

Use a short ‘‘stubby’’ Phillips screwdriver and/or a Phillips
bit on a 1/4’’ ratchet to remove the 8 (I think) small screws
that secure the plastic oval retainer that clamps the
underside edge of the gaiter in place. Start with the most
difficult-to-reach screws first so you are less likely to
lose a screw behind the fuel filler neck if the oval
retainer falls free as you remove the last awkward screw.
Save the easiest-to-reach screws for last instead. When all
the screws have been removed, let the oval retainer slide
down the filler neck, past the hose fitting and out of your way.

Carefully separate the gaiter from the FFLB by pushing
upward around its outer edge. When the gaiter is free, let
the FFLB slide down the filler neck, then very carefully
push the gaiter up and off of the filler neck. Because the
gaiter is so easily torn, before you try to push it off the
filler neck you may want to first run a thin flat-bladed
screwdriver between the filler neck and gaiter to release
any spots that may be stuck.

With the gaiter removed from the filler neck, it is now
possible to remove the FFLB by carefully tipping & tilting
its thinnest corner up and over the filler neck. It’s a
little like solving one of those old folk-art puzzles made
from two large nails bent into curves that interlock but can
be separated if you move them through the proper sequence of
positions. The oval gaiter retainer plate lifts over the
filler neck easily.

Assembly is the reverse of removal.–
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 187K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
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In reply to a message from John S sent Mon 24 Dec 2012:

fuel latch box … as big a pain as those stupid BFM s john!
i got rid of the latch lock a couple of years ago, after it failed,
for the third time. I now have the magnet jobby on my filler latch,
to hold it down and a locking fuel cap. I got fed up of looking a
dick everytime I popped the boot lid to fill up :slight_smile:
from what i ve read and also come across in practice, is the
pressure pad, it gets water in it and damp. its such a fragile
piece, it dos nt take much to play up.
i did at one point, consider fitting the later latch box and cap,
but to that, the tank needs to be changed. not top of the too do
list to be honest.–
The original message included these comments:

I promise I won’t rant about how stupid the design is of
placing the gas fill on top of the fender, for all water and
ice to gather.
John 90 XJ40


XJ40 SOVEREIGN 4.0 1990 (G-REG) SOLENT BLUE
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In reply to a message from John S sent Mon 24 Dec 2012:

JOhn,

Didn’t think about that… manual release…

You still probably have gunk build up on the mechanism,
probably wouldn’t hurt to remove the mechanism and clean it up
really good so it will be trouble free for some years.

Hope you have a great holiday and that goes for everyone here
at Jag Lovers.

Merry Christmas!!–
The original message included these comments:

Mine is a manual pull so there is no electric to the thing.
After spraying liberally with WD40 and silicone - the pin
finally popped out. I’m going to try some lithium grease on
it. I think that is what I used last year.


Rob Evenson, '89 XJ40/XJ6, VIN 583143, 125K
Mobile, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from John S sent Mon 24 Dec 2012:

And while you’re working in this area of the car make sure
the little drain hold in the rubber diaphragm under the lid
is clear. These can plug up easily and cause a high
moisture problem near this latch not to mention the
potential of water going down the fuel filler pipe when
removing the cap.–
The original message included these comments:

I promise I won’t rant about how stupid the design is of
placing the gas fill on top of the fender, for all water and
ice to gather.


John Quilter 1965 3.8S, 1951 MGTD, 1960 Morris ,1990 XJ6
Eugene, Oregon, United States
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In reply to a message from John S sent Mon 24 Dec 2012:

Actually, you do have the electronic release in your 90,
John. But that year, Jaguar fitted an inside door handle
near the floor on the left side and snaked a cable back to
the filler so it presses on the emergency release inside the
trunk. I know, because I pulled a cable and mechanism from
a 90 at Crazy Ray’s to fit on one of my two 88s (never got
around to it, though)–
The original message included these comments:

I promise I won’t rant about how stupid the design is of
placing the gas fill on top of the fender, for all water and
ice to gather.
Anyhow, it is 27F outside with a lot of moisture in the air.
I needed some gas and after getting gas the gas cap cover
won’t close. Yep, that little brass sliding piece is not
moving. This happened before in the winter and some WD40
loosened it but today it won’t loosen. Is it broke or still
frozen?
If it is broken, what is the fix? I think a good magnet
glues to close to the flap would work.


Pete Peterson 70E(193K) 88XJ40s(270K & 256K) 94XJ40 (122K)
Severna Park, Maryland, United States
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In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Tue 1 Jan 2013:

I’m back from the dead, somewhat — been sick for 7 days.
I’d give me an 85% better and reading posts. If I have an
electric setup, I’ve never seen an electric switch to
release it or any electrical connections under the filler
panel. If I have the electric I would like to disconnect it
so this interests me.–
The original message included these comments:

trunk. I know, because I pulled a cable and mechanism from


John 90 XJ40
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In reply to a message from John S sent Thu 3 Jan 2013:

Sorry to hear you’ve been fighting a bug.
The 90 I pulled the release cable from (Crazy Ray’s, of
course) pushed on the white emergency release tab inside the
trunk. I also bought the plastic filler assembly and can
verify that it is the electronic type, interchangeable with
my 88s, but missing the inline fuse.
The long release cable is sort of a Rube Goldberg solution
to the problem. The activating switch is under the white
plastic button at the bottom of the hole at the rear of the
assembly. Pushing down on the filler lid pressed on the
white button, which closes a ‘wafer’ switch which activates
a solenoid that pulls a brass pin in to release the lid. A
spring ‘pops’ the lid about an inch. And after a pause the
solenoid de-energizes, releasing the pin.–
The original message included these comments:

I’d give me an 85% better and reading posts. If I have an
electric setup, I’ve never seen an electric switch to
release it or any electrical connections under the filler
panel. If I have the electric I would like to disconnect it
so this interests me.


Pete Peterson 70E(193K) 88XJ40s(270K & 256K) 94XJ40 (122K)
Severna Park, Maryland, United States
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In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Thu 3 Jan 2013:

Yes that is how I see mine working (white tab) so I guess
all I am missing is the electronics.–
The original message included these comments:

course) pushed on the white emergency release tab inside the
a solenoid that pulls a brass pin in to release the lid. A
spring ‘pops’ the lid about an inch. And after a pause the


John 90 XJ40
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