I’'d also like to fix my oil leak form the oil cooler lines and cant
find the instructions on what to blank off on the filter
Can anyone help me with this
Jay 90 VDP Majestic
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In reply to a message from Jay sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
Jay,
The oil cooler pipes connect to a small block that is
sandwiched between the crankcase and the oil filter carrier.
Jaguar do sell a kit for bypassing the cooler, but this is
unnecessary as you can just unbolt the oil filter carrier
remove the block and pipes and simply bolt the oil filter
carrier back direct to the crankcase. You’ll need to source
some appropriately shorter bolts though.
Search the forum for ‘‘Oil Cooler Remove’’ if you want more info.–
The original message included these comments:
I’'d also like to fix my oil leak form the oil cooler lines and cant
find the instructions on what to blank off on the filter
Can anyone help me with this
Jay 90 VDP Majestic
–
Mike. '92 Soverign 4.0 RHD
London, SW17, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Jay sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
Jay,
Here’s a picture:-
Your car doesn’t have items 3,4,5,6 & 7 fitted - they are
only on cars which left the factory without oil coolers in
the first place. Your car has the oil cooler lines attached
in that position, so if you wish to remove the oil cooler
completely, you could invest in those items.
However, there is really no need to do that.
Remove items 1,2,8,9 & 10 and discard items 1,2 & 9 but
before throwing them away, measure the length of bolt, item
9, and the thickness of item 1, oil cooler adaptor.
From the original part number (FB108141J) for that bolt, I
believe that it is an M8 thread, 70 mm long, so, subtract
the thickness of the adaptor from the length of the bolt and
obtain new M8 bolts to that shorter length.
Then simply bolt the filter head, item 8, directly to the
block and re-fit the filter, item 10, in the customary manner.–
The original message included these comments:
I’'d also like to fix my oil leak form the oil cooler lines and cant
find the instructions on what to blank off on the filter
Can anyone help me with this
–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Bryan N
Thanks.
From the looks of it I should invest in the JDHT CD.
One thing I might ad to any owner who has not removed a radiator
since the car was built.
You would be advised to check the bottom pan under the radiator (on a
90 anyhow). Just look under the front bumper and right behind it you
will see a rusty plate the width of the radiator. This thin rust
piece of 10 ga or so sheet metal is all that supports the radiator
and holds the shroud in place (two tabs from the cast plastic shroud
stick through it and there are rectangular gaskets that keep the tabs
from rattling and moving). Mine looked as if it had never been
painted in its life and had rust scale falling off it. but was
reasonably sound that it looks worth, cleaning and passivating before
repainting the whole radiator support and side pieces with primer and pant.
By passivating I mean to use a spray can of the material that turns
rust into a hard black protective coat. It sprays on clear and turns
the rust black (obviously wire brush off the loose rust). ~$4.00 a
can If you spray it in the cracks and crannies it will slow down
rusting considerably if not stop it entirely depending on penetration level.
I’ll post photos of the conversion to electric fans. Its not
difficult but it is time consuming as the shrouds have entirely
different mounting methods (obviously improved this rusted mess
design as part of the 93/94 improvements. Using the electric fans
should increase mileage by lowering the HP drain to turn the fan and
it makes a much cleaner looking engine up front that’s a lot easier
to work on though I don’t ever want to go revisit this mess (HSMO
caked all over from the leak that couldn’t be seen or reached without
removing everything up front from the pump to the radiator).
Thanks again for your help
At 02:08 AM 8/20/2007, Bryan N wrote:
In reply to a message from Jay sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
Jay,
Here’s a picture:-
snip
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In reply to a message from Jay sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
Coincidentally, I’ve just ordered a brand new radiator
mounting bracket (CCC2670) and a set of mounting rubbers
(lower CBC1789, upper CBC1576) and am awaiting delivery.
The mounting on my car was starting to rust when I bought it
11 years ago. I’ve patched it up and rust treated it a
couple of times but only in a half-cocked way because I
didn’t remove the radiator to do it after the first time and
one of the mounting rubber holes has now nearly given way
completely. To repair it properly I would probably have to
take it off to get it patch-welded, so I decided that the
old girl deserved a new one which I will make sure is so
heavily rust-protected / painted before installation that it
will be the only thing left standing when the rest of the
car has crumpled to dust! 
At the same time it will give me the opportunity to replace
the entire tranny fluid by pumping it out of the coolant
pipes which I will have to disconnect from the left side of
the radiator and of course, my bi-annual coolant flush is
due this year anyway, so it makes a nice little work
package! ;-(–
The original message included these comments:
You would be advised to check the bottom pan under the radiator (on a
90 anyhow). Just look under the front bumper and right behind it you
will see a rusty plate the width of the radiator. This thin rust
piece of 10 ga or so sheet metal is all that supports the radiator
and holds the shroud in place (two tabs from the cast plastic shroud
stick through it and there are rectangular gaskets that keep the tabs
from rattling and moving). Mine looked as if it had never been
painted in its life and had rust scale falling off it. but was
–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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