I’ve been trying to figure out why my '88 3.6 has been giving me a “free
vibrating seat option” not offered in the owner’s manual…vibrating the
whole car as a matter of fact. It seems as though a cylinder isn’t
firing, but when you are cruising, you’d never know. Allow me to
I first checked my timing. A bit off. The triangle was one and a half
teeth away from the alignment point (crankshaft wheel teeth, that is).
To me, too many degrees from normal.
I checked my sparkplugs. All but cylinder 4 looked good. 4 had a
little oil. After 14 years, I suppose the rings should be allowed some
leakage, right? I was running NGKs, but bought some Champion Double
Platinum for kicks. See if one works better, I’ll give a head’s up down
the road. No pun intended. After changing the plugs–exact same
vibration, even at start up. By the way, after problem occurred, start
up was a little rough: cranks 2 more seconds than normal. Also, fuel
consumption is horrid: 23/19 before ~ 12/15 after.
I checked my wires at night. Looking for spark, looking for any light,
looking for cracks. Nothing, not even an unpleasant shock to my
fingers. Connections didn’t have any corrosion or deposits. Didn’t see
anything out of the norm. Question to follow…
I looked at the distributor cap and rotor. A little worn…some
corrosion, but nothing to cause such a major malfunction. For my own
enjoyment, I changed both out for new. Two less Lucas parts in my car.
Exact same vibration as before.
For no reason at all, I changed out the fuel and air filter…they were
mispriced in the store, and I figured that I would take advantage of
this. No difference in vibration. The fuel pressure seems to be
So, I’m left with a few questions: 1)What is the resistance for each of
the sparkplug wires supposed to be? I don’t have specifications on
this. 2)Aside from removing my engine to check the timing chain and
having no clue whether things are working correctly or not, does anyone
have any more suggestions for me? 3)If I take it Jaguar, could…stress
on could…the problem be as simple to fix as “checking the ECU and
‘resetting’ the comp to default,” or am I going to need to chop off an
arm before I pick up the cat? I really need both arms connected to
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
'88 XJ40 3.6
Still using Leatherique at 170K mi. What’s that? “Beautiful,” you say?
I thought so.