American spec 1989 XJ40. The drain kills the battery when
the car is parked more than a day.
I have traced the battery drain to a fuse, using a
multimeter, but I am stymied at that point. The draw (an
extra 140ma) seems to be in the ‘‘aux circuits’’ 20-amp fuse,
the third fuse down on the right side column of the fuses in
my right door pillar fusebox (which has 2 columns of fuses).
Some of the electrical manuals I’ve looked at show 3 columns
of fuses on both the left and right door pillar fuseboxes
(my RH fusebox only has 2 columns, of 7 fuses each).
I did find a chart in CD JHM 1126 that lists 14 fuses in the
RH fusebox (doesn’t list them in columns) which seems
correct, with #10 fuse (20-amp) servicing:
Radio
Sunroof
Interior lamp
Map light
Auxiliary Side Light Relay
Heated door lock relay
Cubby box lamp
Column switch.
(I verified that the radio doesn’t work with that fuse
pulled, but also the heater blower fans don’t work, and I
would have expected the blower to be on #11 fuse)
No lights are on or appear to be malfunctioning, and the
sunroof works, so they are not my prime suspects. My prime
suspect would be the ‘‘heated door lock relay’’ (b/c the door
lock system has been by far the most troublesome aspect of
my XJ40 ownership), but I’ve no idea where that relay is
located. It may not be the culprit, so I also need to figure
out how to disconnect the other devices served by that fuse.
Can anyone give me some pointers?–
84 XJS, 89 XJS, 89 XJ40
Santa Barbara, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from WayneC sent Wed 23 Feb 2011:
I’ll agree, the heated door locks are the most likely suspect.
Door Lock Heater Relay is listed as in the passengers foot
well ‘‘A’’ pillar behind the trim.
Culprit is commonly the micro switch in the door handle for
the heaters but unplugging the relay should alleviate the
problem.
The electrical system of the car does show the radio relay
shared with the A/C so that behavior would be expected.–
The original message included these comments:
(I verified that the radio doesn’t work with that fuse
pulled, but also the heater blower fans don’t work, and I
would have expected the blower to be on #11 fuse)
No lights are on or appear to be malfunctioning, and the
sunroof works, so they are not my prime suspects. My prime
suspect would be the ‘‘heated door lock relay’’ (b/c the door
lock system has been by far the most troublesome aspect of
my XJ40 ownership), but I’ve no idea where that relay is
located. It may not be the culprit, so I also need to figure
out how to disconnect the other devices served by that fuse.
Can anyone give me some pointers?
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In reply to a message from Win sent Thu 24 Feb 2011:
Win,
I think that should be ‘‘JLM1130’’ should it not?
I’ve previously recommended that CD to Wayne and anyone else
contemplating working on the electrics of an XJ40. I can’t
live with the way the circuits are presented in the factory
Service Manuals but I find the JHM1130 versions relatively
easy to follow even for a ‘non-sparks’ like me!–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from WayneC sent Wed 23 Feb 2011:
JHM1103, Supplementary Information 1987 to 1994, Jaguar XJ6
(XJ40) & XJ12 (XJ81) from the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust.
Has most of the electronic and electrical information on our
cars.
The original message included these comments:
When you say the relay is ‘‘listed as in the passengers foot
well ‘A’ pillar behind the trim’’… where did you find
that information (pub and page)?
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In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Thu 24 Feb 2011:
Bryan,
Yes, it is JHM1130, I think my fingers got ahead of my brain
that early in the morning. Needed more coffee!
As you say, it’s a great tool for our cars, and more often
than not, the first place I go looking for anything related
to the electrical bits on the car.
One thing that concerns me is there’s not been a similar
release on the 1st generation V8 cars. As old and as many
miles as my collection has, I’d be interested in a newer
car, but not if I can’t work on the thing!–
The original message included these comments:
I think that should be ‘‘JLM1130’’ should it not?
I’ve previously recommended that CD to Wayne and anyone else
contemplating working on the electrics of an XJ40. I can’t
live with the way the circuits are presented in the factory
Service Manuals but I find the JHM1130 versions relatively
easy to follow even for a ‘non-sparks’ like me!
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In reply to a message from WayneC sent Wed 23 Feb 2011:
I had the same problem. the Barrel heaters for the door locks were
my culprit.
the small microswitch in the door handle was stuck closed and
misadjusted. got to take the door panel off to get top it. this
switch kept the relay energized, the relay is down right side kick
panel (passenger)
it will be too hot to touch,easy to find.–
IYMLUCKY
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In reply to a message from IYMLUCKY sent Fri 25 Feb 2011:
Thanks for the replies. Haven’t been able to get to the
circuit breaker yet… after looking at the car I found
removal of the trim/kick panel is not a trivial task. The
kick panel’s upholstery layer extends rearward and is glued
around the door post sheet metal edge beneath a fuzzy trim
weatherstrip and is also trapped beneath the chrome trim
piece on the door sill, and its top is blocked from swinging
out by a low-hanging panel beneath the dash; it was raining
today and I have to work on it outside, so I postponed the
search until better weather prevails.–
84 XJS, 89 XJS, 89 XJ40
Santa Barbara, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from WayneC sent Fri 25 Feb 2011:
I’d think you could verify the problem by feeling the door
lock cylinder. Should be warm to the touch.
If so, you could pop off the door cards and unplug the
heaters and switches. As noted, it’s probably one of the
switches that’s the culprit anyway.
Time has probably adhered the trip panel to the pinch weld
rather than an glue. I recall having some similar issues
getting the kick panel off my '93 because of that.–
The original message included these comments:
Thanks for the replies. Haven’t been able to get to the
circuit breaker yet… after looking at the car I found
removal of the trim/kick panel is not a trivial task. The
kick panel’s upholstery layer extends rearward and is glued
around the door post sheet metal edge beneath a fuzzy trim
weatherstrip and is also trapped beneath the chrome trim
piece on the door sill, and its top is blocked from swinging
out by a low-hanging panel beneath the dash; it was raining
today and I have to work on it outside, so I postponed the
search until better weather prevails.
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In reply to a message from Win sent Sat 26 Feb 2011:
Got a little further late today… by working the fuzzy
weatherstrip out from inside the doorsill trim, I managed to
slide the footwell trim panel rearward and off , and found 2
relays behind it, one black and one yellow (they both appear
to have the same electrical specs marked on them, though). I
ran out of daylight before I could figure out which one was
for the door lock heater. In looking at the electrical book
later, it appears that the black socket base holds the relay
for the lock heaters.
The other relay is plugged into a blue base, but strangely
the book seems to say that blue-based relay is for a
‘‘breather heater’’ and is located on the ‘‘left radiator
support’’ in the engine compartment… like I said, I really
have a tough time deciphering the Jaguar electrical book :>)
But, the lock cylinders do not feel warm to the touch to me,
so I may be on a goose chase. Hopefully tomorrow the weather
will allow me to connect my ohmmeter to the battery and do
some further exploration.–
84 XJS, 89 XJS, 89 XJ40
Santa Barbara, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from WayneC sent Sat 26 Feb 2011:
Win may be able to confirm this one - but don’t the door
lock heaters only have power when the ambient air
temperature is below a certain level? I think that applies
to the door mirror heaters so I figured it may also be true
for the lock heaters. How cold has it been in your neck of
the woods recently?
BTW Wayne, the car is littered with relays of various
colours, so there are a number of relays with a blue base -
like the one you found for the breather heater on the
radiator support. A sure way of confirming the relay
function is to match the wire colours to the circuit diagram.–
The original message included these comments:
ran out of daylight before I could figure out which one was
for the door lock heater. In looking at the electrical book
later, it appears that the black socket base holds the relay
for the lock heaters.
The other relay is plugged into a blue base, but strangely
the book seems to say that blue-based relay is for a
‘‘breather heater’’ and is located on the ‘‘left radiator
support’’ in the engine compartment… like I said, I really
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In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Sat 26 Feb 2011:
Yes,
The door lock heaters do have thermostats.
I believe they are high limit and the heaters always come on
when the door handle is lifted. The thermostat turns off the
heater at a set high temp. Would be a smart safety for a
stuck on heater micro switch or relay. (not that would every
happen!)
Either way, the thermostat is in line with the heater, not
the switch (DUMB!) and it’d be possible to energize the
relay permanently with a stuck switch.
At this point, I’d pull the relay from the black base there
behind the ‘‘A’’ pillar foot well trim just to remove the door
lock heaters from the list of possible suspects.–
The original message included these comments:
Win may be able to confirm this one - but don’t the door
lock heaters only have power when the ambient air
temperature is below a certain level? I think that applies
to the door mirror heaters so I figured it may also be true
for the lock heaters. How cold has it been in your neck of
the woods recently?
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In reply to a message from Win sent Sun 27 Feb 2011:
OK, I pulled the relay on the black base, and the drain
dropped from about 170 ma to about 40ma (assuming I’m
reading the multimeter scale correctly). Can’t understand
why the lock cylinders didn’t feel warm. I’m going to leave
the relay out and see what happens; I live in a warm climate
that seldom goes below freezing, so it shouldn’t be an issue.
I’m at the point where nearly anything I have fixed costs
more than the car is worth, so I probably won’t have this
'89 much longer (A/C is currently kaput, paint is
oxidized/peeling, headliner is falling down, and the door
locks and latches are driving me batty). It’s been nice
while it lasted, but I may go looking for a '97.
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In reply to a message from WayneC sent Sun 27 Feb 2011:
Outstanding!
I think '89 was the last year for the door lock heaters.
Not sure if Jaguar recognized a superfluous feature, or
simply a problematic one they could do without.
With keyless entry becoming the norm at that time,
eliminating the feature would certainly not be missed by
most new car buyers.–
The original message included these comments:
reading the multimeter scale correctly). Can’t understand
why the lock cylinders didn’t feel warm. I’m going to leave
the relay out and see what happens; I live in a warm climate
that seldom goes below freezing, so it shouldn’t be an issue.
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