In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Fri 20 Dec 2013:
Pete,
One other thought is that while you have things apart you
could test the potentiometer resistances to ensure that they
both transition smoothly and both have similar resistance
ranges. If something is amiss there, presumably the CC ECU
could stop one or both flap cylinders in the wrong position.
Don–
The original message included these comments:
rotary valve (blend flap) edge seals. I surmise that the
gear motor/potentiometer correctly positions the rotary
valve for function required. I do know that the gear motors
drive in both directions when moving from heat to cool with
the motors dismounted. The potentiometers are driven by the
rotary valve via a blade-in-slot coupling. I did not check
to see whether they could be installed with that connection
180 degrees out It appears that the rotary valves can be
removed when the potentiometer plates are dismounted, and I
will probably do that after the holidays. Access is
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In reply to a message from Don B sent Fri 20 Dec 2013:
I hate to ask a dumb question - but what’s the best way to access
the blend flap motors?–
WCManess - 1991 XJ40/6 - Black/Grey - 4.0 liter
Arlington/Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from wcmaness sent Mon 23 Dec 2013:
The best way is to take the glove box out (right side).
You’ll need to remove the panels below the glove box door to
gain access to the two 10mm bolts holding the GB door on
(mind the shims) and then loosen the two phillips-head
screws nearest the firewall and remove the two PH screws
closest to the GB door to lower the relay panel out of the
way. Then remove the 6 PH screws at the top of the glove
box (again mind the shims for the latch) and remove the
glove box. You may have to run a flat-blade screwdriver
along the top edge of the GB to help it out from under the
dash.
There is one PH screw holding the HVAC computer to the box.
The lower rotary valve (blend flap) motor is behind the
computer.
If you want to remove the fascia trim and center vents, run
a flat-blade screwdriver behind the wood in about 3 inches
top and bottom and give it a twist to pop the trim piece
loose. The vent grilles are held in by the trim panel.
While you have the glove box out, examine the wires leading
to the outside air temperature sensor on the recycle door on
the right-side blower. The wires to the sensor have most
likely broken from fatigue. You’ll need to repair those
wires.
To access the other side of the climate system box, remove
the panel below the steering wheel and then locate and
remove the 4 8mm bolts, two on either side of the instrument
cluster, and remove the cluster. There are 6 or 7
electrical plugs to disconnect, but they’re all different
sizes and colors, so there’s no confusion on reassembly.–
The original message included these comments:
I hate to ask a dumb question - but what’s the best way to access
the blend flap motors?
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In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Mon 23 Dec 2013:
Any chance you could flush the heater core without
removing it? Looks like that’s my problem.–
WCManess - 1991 XJ40/6 - Black/Grey - 4.0 liter
Arlington/Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Fri 27 Dec 2013:
The heater core was way too corroded to flush - so I took
the plunge and do e into the under dash to replace it. I
must say - it wasn’t as hard as I expected. Full heat and
blowing good.–
WCManess - 1991 XJ40/6 - Black/Grey - 4.0 liter
Arlington/Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from Brazierje sent Thu 2 Jan 2014:
I’ve sent you via a PM off list a description of how to
replace the heater matrix without removing the entire dash–
The original message included these comments:
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In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Thu 2 Jan 2014:
I didn’t have to remove the dash. Just the knee bolsters on both
sides, the glove box, and the instrument cluster. Not too tough
after that. Just be sure your lines are disconnected and the pipes
blown out inside before you take it apart/out.–
WCManess - 1991 XJ40/6 - Black/Grey - 4.0 liter
Arlington/Texas, United States
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