XJ40 Not Starting

Hi. I’m back in trouble again. To start with I installed a new battery. The battery was taken out last fall. I tried resetting the Security system. When I tried locking the car, the driver’s boor lock hammered 4 times and the door became permanently open/unlocked. I removed the lock and handle (lots of fun). Freed up the mechanism, it has some rust in the pivot.
I can crank the engine and it has lots of spark, but no fire. Does the security system lock out the fuel pump?

Maybe the fuel pump has seized during the 'Winter-nap"?

Can you hear the priming burst from the pump when you turn on the ignition?

Mystery car I guess, but if it’s a late model try swapping over the o2 heater relay on the firewall with the one next to it.

Doug …

And the year of your car would be ?

You say your engine has “lots of spark” where did you test that? When you crank your engine does the tachometer register any RPM ?

First thing I would do is try a new distributor cap and rotor (you should always carry a spare in the trunk). These cars are notorious for carbon traces building up in the cap although they look perfect.

Next step would be to crack open the fitting leading from the fuel pressure regular to the fuel rail. Wrap a rag around it and have someone crank the car over. You’ll know soon enough if the rail is getting fuel.

Fuel, spark, and oxygen … unless the engine has an internal problem it’s down to one of those three.

Thanks for the reply.
1994 XJ40
Spark checked at the distributor.
No fuel in the fuel rail.
No sound from the fuel pump at ignition on.
No one has answered the question about the security system keeping the fuel pump off.
I have the CD (JMH 1156). It wiring diagrams, but I can not find the crossreference to the items on the diagram.

Did you try swapping out that O2 heater relay on the firewall?

It switches on the fuel pump. No relay action, no pump. The main fuel pump relay is located inside the DBC 10422 module. It’s clipped in the trunk just near the antenna. You can open this module and reflow the solder, sometimes that will fix the relay if it isn’t doing it’s job.

The red switch in the driver’s footwell turns off the fuel pump, make sure it isn’t tripped. The connection at the evaporative flange on top of the tank can also be a problem, and of course the fuel pump itself can fail, requiring you to pull out the tank.

You can sometimes see if the fuel pump has “stuck” by giving the tank a good “whack” with a broomhandle, this will cause the pump to jar itself and possibly impulse enough to start running. If this is the case, you’ll need a new pump.

Check the relays first!