[xj40] Possible evaporator failure

I had my AC system recharged last month with 134R. It has been
over two years since I charged it and I was noticing the system
wasn’t as cool as it could be. The charge lasted less than two
weeks and now I’ve lost the charge completely. I took the 94 XJ40
back to the AC shop and they used a sniffer to locate the leak.
The leak was localized to the vents inside the car and I was told
the evaporator has failed!! Dye was injected into the system and
there is no evidence of leakage under black light in the engine
compartment. Besides a sniffer checking the interior vents, is
there any other way to confirm or deny the failure of the
evaporator? We are talking big bucks here to replace the
evaporator. Thanks for the assistance.

Bob Donnelly
84 SIII 171,000 mi
94 XJ40
Suffolk, VA–
Rob
Suffolk, United States
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Sounds like the evaporator. The most common place for slow leaks on older
systems is the seal at the compressor behind the compressor clutch which
black light may not “see”—if sniffer detects no leaks in this area, you
probably have a pin-hole leak in your evaporator.

Ken
“If I can’t fix it, it don’t get fixed”----- Original Message -----
From: “Rob” r.donnelly@verizon.net
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 7:13 AM
Subject: [xj40] Possible evaporator failure

I had my AC system recharged last month with 134R. It has been
over two years since I charged it and I was noticing the system
wasn’t as cool as it could be. The charge lasted less than two
weeks and now I’ve lost the charge completely. I took the 94 XJ40
back to the AC shop and they used a sniffer to locate the leak.
The leak was localized to the vents inside the car and I was told
the evaporator has failed!! Dye was injected into the system and
there is no evidence of leakage under black light in the engine
compartment. Besides a sniffer checking the interior vents, is
there any other way to confirm or deny the failure of the
evaporator? We are talking big bucks here to replace the
evaporator. Thanks for the assistance.

Bob Donnelly
84 SIII 171,000 mi
94 XJ40
Suffolk, VA

Rob
Suffolk, United States
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Line Books and more !

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Unfortunately, the evaporator is a known weak point on that year car. The
a/c shop is most likely correct.

Dave

At 01:13 PM 8/7/03 +0200, you wrote:

I had my AC system recharged last month with 134R. It has been
over two years since I charged it and I was noticing the system
wasn’t as cool as it could be. The charge lasted less than two
weeks and now I’ve lost the charge completely. I took the 94 XJ40
back to the AC shop and they used a sniffer to locate the leak.
The leak was localized to the vents inside the car and I was told
the evaporator has failed!! Dye was injected into the system and
there is no evidence of leakage under black light in the engine
compartment. Besides a sniffer checking the interior vents, is
there any other way to confirm or deny the failure of the
evaporator? We are talking big bucks here to replace the
evaporator. Thanks for the assistance.

Bob Donnelly
84 SIII 171,000 mi
94 XJ40
Suffolk, VA

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !

Is it also a known weak point on the 95 XJ40s? I am looking at a '95 Daimler
with non-cooling A/C and need to check out the likely cost of fixing it
before I make an offer.

Regards,
Jerry-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xj40@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xj40@jag-lovers.org]On
Behalf Of David Hurlston
Sent: 7 August 2003 16:52
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xj40] Possible evaporator failure

Unfortunately, the evaporator is a known weak point on that year car. The
a/c shop is most likely correct.

Dave

At 01:13 PM 8/7/03 +0200, you wrote:

I had my AC system recharged last month with 134R. It has been
over two years since I charged it and I was noticing the system
wasn’t as cool as it could be. The charge lasted less than two
weeks and now I’ve lost the charge completely. I took the 94 XJ40
back to the AC shop and they used a sniffer to locate the leak.
The leak was localized to the vents inside the car and I was told
the evaporator has failed!! Dye was injected into the system and
there is no evidence of leakage under black light in the engine
compartment. Besides a sniffer checking the interior vents, is
there any other way to confirm or deny the failure of the
evaporator? We are talking big bucks here to replace the
evaporator. Thanks for the assistance.

Bob Donnelly
84 SIII 171,000 mi
94 XJ40
Suffolk, VA

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting
services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On
Line Books and more !

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !

In reply to a message from Jerry RM Jones sent Thu 7 Aug 2003:

Evaporator core problems are not typical on 95 (X300’s). As someone
mentoned earlier, It seems as though the 93’s had most of the
problems.

Anyway, on the 95 you are looking at, see if there is pressure in
the system. If yes, you probably don’t have a significant (as in
evaporator)leak.–
The original message included these comments:

Is it also a known weak point on the 95 XJ40s? I am looking at a '95 Daimler
with non-cooling A/C and need to check out the likely cost of fixing it


uncle
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In reply to a message from uncle sent Thu 7 Aug 2003:

I am on my 3rd evaporator on a 94 xj6. Only 32000 miles total on
car. What kind of crap are they selling us???–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Jerry RM Jones sent Thu 7 Aug 2003:


stuart81817
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In reply to a message from Rob sent Thu 7 Aug 2003:

Bob, I just went through a major overhaul of my A/C including
condenser, all A/C hoses, receiver drier. Fortunately my compressor
and evaporator are still serviceable. Anyway , when I thought I
might have to replace the evaporator, I did some online research
for prices etc. If I’m not mistaken the 1993 and 1994 Xj40’s have
the same evaporator (if not than the following is irrelevant). But
anyway check this site:
http://www.oewarehouse.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv
This is the AC Delco Direct site and they offer the evaporator for
the 1993 Xj40 (part #15-62224) for $157.10, which you will be hard
pressed to beat elsewhere. I can’t explain why they don’t list this
evaporator as applicable to the 94 since other parts sites indicate
that the same part applied to both the 1993 & 1994 model year xj40
In any event you should be able to find this part for no more than
$250 in the event that the this part won’t fit your vehicle.–
sgfinpa
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In reply to a message from sgfinpa sent Fri 8 Aug 2003:

Further to my previous post, the part no. is 88919675 while 15-
62224 is a reference no of some sort. Sorry for the confusion!–
sgfinpa
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In reply to a message from sgfinpa sent Fri 8 Aug 2003:

Hello!
It sounds that you are going to change the evaporator yourself.
I have a Daimler 93 with a fault evaporator and the workshop
offer me to fix it for 1100 Euro. It sounds like a huge job to
access the evaporator. Do you think it is reasonable for a amateur,
like me, to change the evaporator myself. What are you planning to
do?

Regards Robert
Jaguar Daimler 1993–
robert_s_andersson
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I have lost my ac in my 94, recharged with dye installed, worked for a couple weeks, not not working again. Mechanic says shine the black light at the drain coming out the bottom of the car, i can’t find a drain. Next problems is apparently they aren’t available for purchase. I asked can they be repaired, he said if they are copper. Anyone know if a 94’s is aluminum or copper before is dismantle the car?

I agree, put some containers under the drains and check the condensate with the uv lamp.

The drains come out either side of the trans tunnel about mid way along the transmission from memmory.

Henge …

Before you even consider replacing your evaporator you’ll want to test it in place to make sure it’s actually leaking.

The best way to do this is to remove the expansion valve. Now you have access to the two tubes that come out of the evaporator through the fire wall in the engine bay… Simply cap off one tube and make up an adapter to slip on the other tube that will allow you to pull a vacuum with a hand held vacuum pump. If it holds a vacuum over night then it should be OK.

To be absolutely sure you can also pressurize the evaporator using the two tubes and see if it will hold the pressure. Now I know it seems like a lot of effort to jury rig an adapter to do the pressurization test but I can tell you from first hand experience that removing the evaporator is a MAJOR job.

If you’re really handy around cars and have the time, tools, and patience you can do it, but it won’t be fun. If on the other hand this will be your 1st really big project … good luck.

Even though the evaporator in my '89 passed both test in the end I still decided to pull it out. Why? Because after testing I finally made the decision to totally rebuild my A/C system and this included removing the evaporator to clean off all the crude that I was sure had built up on the cooling fins after almost 3 decades. I’m glad I did, the face of it was around 1/3 blocked with a sticky grime.

Thanks for responding.

Any idea if the evap is aluminum or copper.

If aluminum I won’t even attempt, people say they can’t be fixed.

I work on my Triumph, Sonetts and Corvair, so I have some talent, some
patience, but maybe not enough

I have been into that dash a little before, but not that deep.

I just don’t see the dye anywhere with a black light can only assume until I
see some, the problem is in there.

I don’t even see how the expansion connection comes off.

Thanks for your help though.

Henge

I have 3 of these NOS evap’s. JLM2161.
Note they have thread-on fittings.
I believe these types changed over production, and I’m not sure which these fit.
Going cheap if you can use them.
Thanks, and good luck,
Rob

Before going nuts on the assumption that the evap had failed, buy a STRONG 21 led UV flashlight from eBay then take the car to a place with TOTAL darkness and examine the engine compartment components including the condenser (shine blacklight through the grille).

250,000 Km on an original 94MY evap so not sure why deemed a failure point?

Thanks. I am going to dig into the dash in the winter with snow on the ground when i don’t use the car