Hello I am new to Jaguars and have a question about this conversion. I recently acquired a 1994 xj40 v12. I am having to heavily rebuild it. Don’t feel this to be a restoration but more than just fixed. Car set up in a back yard for 6 years. Having to go through, clean and rebuild every system. Interesting and fun. Although my entire career was in quality control in Aerospace Industry I have tinkered with cars for close to 50 years. Now to my question. I have already replaced the springs, shocks, etc. of the SLS with a standard kit. I have read this post on removing the rest of the system which I want to do. My question is, If you remove the pump what do you do about the serpentine belt? In other words with the pump removed the belt is now too long. I have A/C and I don’t see how to replace it. If you could get a smaller belt how do you tension it? With the pump removed the tensioner is no longer in the circuit (so to speak). I have located the hose that’s required and the blanking plate although not longer available is easily made. Some measurements and some blank steel or aluminum is all you need.
Ahah! All of the chat on here has been about removing the redundant HSMO plumbing from a six cylinder engine including the power hydraulics pump which, on a six, is chain driven from withing the timing cover.
I’m not too familiar with the V12 engine but aren’t the SLS power hydraulics presurised from the power steering pump which is the one belt driven as you describe? Obviously you cannot remove that.
I cannot see a separate power hydraulics pump for the SLS on a V12 engine like we had on the straight six.
Just physically checked system. Very crowded in there. Yes there is only one pump. From the pictures on Classic Jaguar of the P/S pump and the HSMO pump thought they were separate. Wish they were. They are not. Mine is also leaking like a sieve. So something else to rebuild or replace. There is a rebuilder in the UK that is selling these for a reasonable price, but think I will try to rebuild myself and see how it goes. I think the only thing to do is cap the line off going to the shock. The control valve looks different than the one that goes on the six. The bleeder from the tee on the R/H (passenger side) shock will not work. It just falls into the hole. So will have to think of some other way to cap off. On the V12 the line from the control valve to the rear shock is on the L/H side (drivers side) and the capped off tee is on the R/H side. I had to strip all the doors down and rebuild as the windows, door locks, and latches did not work properly. That is how badly everything has gotten. But on the good side there is absolutely no rust anywhere that I can find. The car only has 83K on it so is low mileage. I had to clean out, rebuild the fuel system to get the car running again. The injectors were all stuck shut. Soaked in redline fuel injector cleaner for 24 hours and actuated with two flashlight dry cells to restore function. They now work fine and the engine runs well. Had to replace everything with the brakes. Disks, calipers, flex lines, etc. Found some NOS wood for interior and a guy that had some of the original carpet. Ordered enough to do the car. Used original for pattern, cut and installed. Leather and dash like new. Thank god. So coming along. rebuilding suspension now. All new bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. Most are probably reusable but into it this deep might as well replace everything that I can. Might not be able to in the future. The electrics are, rebuildable, take the switches, etc. apart, clean and lube and they all work. Security system cobbed somehow, drain on battery, just disconnected for now. Might look into in the future. Hope to have road worthy by fall then on to paint.
Well taken up enough of your time. Thanks for the reply.