[xj40] Power Steering Pump

Greetings,

Over the weekend, I had the opportunity to re-work the power steering pump
on my 90 XJ6. I had noticed a leak in the system for some time … but it
wasn’t killer so I used some seal enhancer to hopefully rectify the problem.
Well … it was to no good end as the leak increased significantly this past
Saturday as the wife was driving.

Upon her return home, she informed me that the “car was smoking”. A closer
inspection revealed Dexron burning off the exhaust manifold and cat
converters. After a quick de-greasing and another test drive, the problem
was manifested itself as an apparent power steering pump seal leak … lots
of red blood directly below and around the front of the engine.

Let’s start by stating that Haynes is exceedingly simplistic with regards to
this repair work. Lots more to the problem than the simple paragraph Haynes
devotes to the subject. After jacking the front of the car up on stands …
and removing the exhaust manifold heat shield (and EGR valve) to allow
access, I was able to remove the inlet hose and high pressure hose from the
pump.

The pump itself is secured to the engine jack shaft via three 13mm head
bolts that are NOT located for ease of manipulation. These bolts are a
b&t*h to access. Finally, I was able to remove the bolts and pull the power
steering pump out via the engine bay. With the pump in hand, the fun just
begins to start.

The pump shaft is attached to the engine via a standard spider type coupling
… but there’s a problem. The pump shaft coupling hub is pressed onto the
pump shaft … not easy to remove. I was able to remove the coupling hub by
some creative machinist work with the excellent help of my local machine
shop. With the coupling hub off, I was able to remove and replace the shaft
seal.

The good news … the power steering pump is a conventional GM Saginaw pump
… the seals and rebuild kits are very plentiful and inexpensive. Not
wanting to break into the pump (as there was nothing wrong with the pump), I
decide a seal replacement was all that seemed necessary. The cost of the
seal was $5.00 US.

After replacing the seal, the machine shop helped to re-press the coupling
hub back onto the power steering pump shaft. This part is not as simple as
it seems as you need to place the hub back to the exact location you found
it. Thankfully, I pre-measured the distance before removing the hub. The
machine shop charged me $6.00 US for the press work.

Its accurate to say the re-installation work was a bit simpler than the
removal as I was already familiar with the work. It was about 2 hours for
removal and 1 hours for re-installation. The total cost … $14 US with the
new Dexron III.

The really bad news … I contacted my local Jaguar dealer and asked if they
had the tool for removing the pump side coupler hub. The answer was …
maybe, but it would take two weeks before they could work me into their
schedule. Two weeks to attempt a 15 minute job … these guys are truly
customer driven. Can you imagine the price the dealership would have
charged for this repair work? Another example of excellent Jaguar service
… needless to say, I declined their service and did the work myself.

Every weekend is a new adventure …

John P.

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !

In reply to a message from John Pring sent Tue 14 Oct 2003:

John,

Having gone through a similar process to yourself in finding a
method of removing (and replacing with some accuracy) the drive dog
on the pump shaft when I re-sealed my car’s pump some time ago, I
later became aware that it is totally unnecessary to do that to
replace the seal.

If you attack it from the other end, once you’ve removed the cover,
the spring, the end plates and the rotor and stator (all very easy
on the kithen table!) you can remove a circlip and withdraw the
shaft c/w drive dog forward to gain access to the seal.

Providing you remember which way around everything goes back
together, that method is very easy and you don’t need to go
searching for a machine shop or someone with the Jag special
removal / re-fit tools to handle the drive dog. An added benefit,
you don’t need to worry about the drive dog being re-fitted in the
precise location on the shaft to avoid mashing up the drive
mechanism in the timing cover (as happened to one of our bretheren
in the distant past)

I was amused by your remarks about the Jag dealer’s reluctance to
fit in your little job. Mine wouldn’t even consider helping me to
re-seal the pump. His best offer was to fit a brand new pump!–
Bryan N ('91 Sovereign 4.0 L)
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Tue 14 Oct 2003:

That’s what I like about Brian, he always has an easier way
without alll the fuss. Good idea on the pump leak repair.–
uncle
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Doug,

I would agree that Bryan’s method for replacing the power steering pump
shaft seal is an option … but its not a workable solution if you need to
replace the pump. You absolutely need to remove (and replace) the pump side
coupling hub to be able to replace the pump.

Personally, I kind of have some difficulty thinking that disassembling the
“power steering pump” to replace the shaft seal is “easier” than pressing
off the hub. Lots of chances with this option to make mistakes … meaning
you do the job again. After seeing the hub pressed off (and on) the shaft
… its really not a difficult task. Its just that you need the correct
tooling.

One thing I think we all can agree on, the dealership service department
doesn’t want to be bothered with this “small work”. It may be small
potatoes to them … but its a real concern for me when the car is
out-of-service.

John P.

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In reply to a message from John Pring sent Thu 16 Oct 2003:

John,

What you describe as ‘Bryan’s method’ of re-sealing the pump, I
really cannot take credit for. What I described was the method
discovered by Scott Kirk and described in his post to the XJ40 list
in October 2002.

Whether it is an ‘easier’ method surely depends on the availability
of suitable tools or a facility where you can get the drive dog
removed and re-fitted. When I did it the ‘hard’ way, long before I
became aware of the ‘kitchen table’ alternative suggested by Scott,
it involved driving 100 miles (two round trips of 25 miles each
way) to an independent Jag specialist who happened to have the Jag
special tools.

Since we are not all blessed with willing local machine shops (and
even less, cooperative Jag dealers!) I think dismantling the pump
is a legitimate alternative where only the seal is in need of
replacement. Compared with getting the darn pump / adaptor assembly
off the car in the first place, it’s a breeze!

However, for any other lister who is contemplating doing it that
way, I think it only fair to warn them that correct re-assembly of
the innards of the pump is only really ‘easy’ providing you pay
absolutely critical attention to the orientation of the parts when
you remove them from the pump body. There are only two ways you can
install the rotors, stators and end plates - and guess what? Both
Scott and I assembled them ‘the obvious way’ which turned out to be
incorrect! Thus we had no pressure when we re-fitted the pump to
the car and had to start all over again …

In my case, as mentioned, I had had the drive dog removed so that I
could unbolt the adaptor from the pump before I started to
dismantle the pump. I used a lever action valve spring compressor
hooked around the forward face of the pump body to depress the
powerful internal conical spring that forces the end cover against
its retaining circlip. With the pump adaptor still bolted to the
front of the pump, it will require a large ‘G’ clamp or similar to
straddle the extra length of the assembly on the ‘kitchen table’ to
deal with that part of the process.

Still worthwhile when a $10 sealing kit will solve a power steering
problem that my then local dealer would have charged probably $500
for by fitting a new pump.–
The original message included these comments:

I would agree that Bryan’s method for replacing the power steering pump
shaft seal is an option … but its not a workable solution if you need to
Personally, I kind of have some difficulty thinking that disassembling the
‘‘power steering pump’’ to replace the shaft seal is ‘‘easier’’ than pressing
off the hub. Lots of chances with this option to make mistakes … meaning
you do the job again. After seeing the hub pressed off (and on) the shaft
… its really not a difficult task. Its just that you need the correct
tooling.


Bryan N ('91 Sovereign 4.0 L)
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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There is an option for folks who’d rather not have to deal with rebuilding
the XJ40 PS pump. We rebuild these units in house and supply not only the
bare pump as a rebuild but also build and stock these as a complete rebuilt
pump assembly with the aluminum mounting bell in place. Of course, we do
require a matching core for either type.

Best regards,

Gregory Wells 800-331-2193 x103
Coventry West, Inc. - Atlanta, GA www.coventrywest.com
New, Rebuilt, and Used Jaguar & Land-Rover Parts

Bryan N wrote:

Still worthwhile when a $10 sealing kit will solve a power steering
problem that my then local dealer would have charged probably $500
for by fitting a new pump.

The original message included these comments:

I would agree that Bryan’s method for replacing the power steering pump
shaft seal is an option … but its not a workable solution if
you need to
Personally, I kind of have some difficulty thinking that
disassembling the
‘‘power steering pump’’ to replace the shaft seal is ‘‘easier’’
than pressing
off the hub. Lots of chances with this option to make mistakes
… meaning
you do the job again. After seeing the hub pressed off (and
on) the shaft
… its really not a difficult task. Its just that you need the correct
tooling.

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !

I will admit that in the middle of the repair process on my power steering pump, I contemplated calling CoventryWest thinking that they would supply a complete assembly with the coupling hub installed.

Maybe I was lucky in working with such a owner “friendly” machine shop, but I would bet other members have access to likewise excellent shops. Bryan mentioned that his work saved him $500 … but I would think its more like $800 or more. The pump alone from Jaguar is no doubt very expensive much less the multiple hours needed for removal/replacement.

The morale of this story … owners of older Jaguars need to be creative when maintaining their vehicles.

John P.

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !

John,

We started supplying the XJ40 P/S pumps as ready-to-install assemblies a few
years back when we began to realize that even skilled and experienced shops
were having trouble removing and reinstalling the trumpets without breaking
them.

I do not quote pricing on these lists but our price on the assembly is well
under $200 exchange. The big advantage to the assembly in my eyes is the
time it saves.

Best regards,

Gregory Wells 800-331-2193 x103
Coventry West, Inc. - Atlanta, GA www.coventrywest.com
New, Rebuilt, and Used Jaguar & Land-Rover Parts

John Pring wrote:

I will admit that in the middle of the repair process on my power
steering pump, I contemplated calling Coventry West thinking that
they would supply a complete assembly with the coupling hub installed.

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !

This is an old thread. However, I could not find the writing by Scott Kirk in October 2002. I would be interested in reading about his ‘kitchen table’ alternative of changing the shaft seal of the power steering pump.