[xj40] Preserving the wood veneer

Is there a product recommended for protecting the wood veneer from
the UV rays, and whatever else causes its deterioration? Len–
Len
Galloway, NJ 08205, United States
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In reply to a message from vettelen sent Tue 29 Apr 2003:

I’ve tried different products, although I can’t say how well they
protect from fading, since I’ve only had the wood on my car for
less than a year.

A lot of the detail products for auto wood interiors say they
prevent against UV rays (the cause of the fading). Peronsally, I
prefer to use pure lemon oil products. They really seem to nourish
the wood (if that is possible through the polyurethane cover
coating!) - the downside is it leaves the wood looking kinda shiny,
and shows up fingerprints/smudges very easily. (but boy does it
smell nice!). Not sure about UV protection with them though.

I haven’t tried to use Norwegian wood oil yet (it looks like
watery milk) … but will do so in the near future and report the
results if anyone is interested.

I’ve often wondered if those cars with tinted windows (UV
protective) really do have less of a problem with wood fade than
those without. Anyone care to share on this?

Keep in mind that whatever product you use, our ‘‘ski slopes’’ seem
still prone to at least fine cracking in the finish over time -
this is due to the heat rising from above the transmission/off the
back end of the engine and onto the underside of this piece, IMHO.–
&:-)) Paul '88 XJ6 VP 127K miles (black on doeskin)
Garland, Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from AttyDallas sent Tue 29 Apr 2003:

Hi All:

Conventional oils and wood treatments do not penetrate the poly
layer on the wood. They would simply sit on top and smell/look
nice.

The greatest enemies of wood are sunlight, temperature fluctuations
and humidity extremes. Basically, parking the car in a dark room ,
at about 45% humidity and temperatures of about 17 cecius is
probably ideal…those conditions must be maintained constantly.

Of course, the wife might object to the car sitting in the living
room…with the drapes closed…but tell her its for the good of
the wood… I am sure she’ll understand…S An alternaive
would be to park the car at the local art gallery/museum…they
usually have controlled atmospheres.

Seriously, tinted windows, garages and shady trees help, but its a
car…not JUST a car…but a car nonetheless…

The poly layer on the wood is there to limit the humidity
extremes…temperature and sunlight are within your control…

Oils and cleaners don’t actually come in contact with the wood, so
they really don’t do anything to the wood itself, but there might
be some that have UV protectors in them…i don’t know.

Darren
88XJ40
i really should get back to work…–
darren bessey
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In reply to a message from darren_bessey@ca.campbellsoup.com sent Tue 29 Apr 2003:

but … does the anti UV stuff keep the poly from cracking, due to
sunlight, heat? anyone know?–
&:-)) Paul '88 XJ6 VP 127K miles (black on doeskin)
Garland, Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from AttyDallas sent Tue 29 Apr 2003:

Cracking is caused by humidity changes (specifically, the veneer
drying out)and/or temperature extremes which cause the wood
to ‘‘move’’ and, if dry, crack. Its really a combination of the wood
losing elasticity and being forced to ‘‘move’’…

UV protection will most likely reduce fading and, will to a small
extent, reduce the heat reaching the wood as it stops the UV ray
portion of the light spectrum from getting to the wood. However, I
can’t see it doing much…Shade and cool even temperatures is
the only way to preserve wood. (Think of your home furnishings)

The living room is still the place for the car’s wood.–
darren bessey
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Greg: (who was kind enough to point out my errors offline)

Obviously I have to be very careful how I phrase things around you. Thanks
for keeping me honest…

Yes UV does break down the polyurethane. However, polyurethane lacqueurs
come with UV absorbers in the mix.

I think (could be wrong) that Paul was asking about the wood, not the
lacquer…but then I am probably wrong. I have never heard of a UV
protectant that you can wipe on wood finishes and have it stay there…but
then, as my wife points out regularly, I don’t know everything. So i stand
corrected. If we are talking about the lacquer here, then it’s entirely
poosible there is some product out there you might be able to brush on over
the lacquer that would enhance its UV protection level… but I never
heard of any.

I would think, that , if you wanted to do it right, you would strip off any
lacquer that has failed (its protection is probably very little now) and
re-apply the proper new lacquer. however, others have pointed out that to
do it yourself is expensive…I am not sure thats true, but the person who
did was from BritishAutoWoods, so they rpobably kow of what they
speak…(unlike some of us)

and if we are talking about the wood (or even the lacquer) I stand by my
assertion that shade (lack of UV rays and heat) and humidity control are
still the keys to preserving the wood (and the lacquer). But keeping the
Jaguar in the living room is probably not practical…

But then…what do I know…

No longer contributing my worthless comments, I remain

Darren
88 XJ40**********************************************************************
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IMHO Darren is correct. Many products claim to “feed” wood. This sounds
very appealing to those of us who desire to somehow nurture the beautiful
wood. The truth is that the wood has been very carefully sealed with
several coats of finish. Oils do not penetrate but simply sit on top of the
finish. One needs to be careful not to put a product on top of the finish
that may damage it. The best solution is to keep the wood out of the sun as
much as possible. UV protectors may help, but sunlight is the greatest
destroyer of the wood.
Best regards,
Don----- Original Message -----
From: “AttyDallas” attydallas@aol.com
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [xj40] Preserving the wood veneer

In reply to a message from darren_bessey@ca.campbellsoup.com sent Tue 29
Apr 2003:

but … does the anti UV stuff keep the poly from cracking, due to
sunlight, heat? anyone know?

&:-)) Paul '88 XJ6 VP 127K miles (black on doeskin)
Garland, Texas, United States
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Line Books and more !

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Paul

The thick coat of poly put on by Jag will crack period. Simply because of its thickness and the contraction of the wood at a different rate than the coating during
extremes of heat and cold. Thick coatings are not a good idea on wood unless it remains i a fixed temperature and humidity. If you want it to look good strip off the the
thick poly crap and put on 15-20 coats of min wax. It will be 1/100 of the thickness of the poly and not crack. Just my opinion (tried it)

Jay

AttyDallas wrote:

In reply to a message from darren_bessey@ca.campbellsoup.com sent Tue 29 Apr 2003:

but … does the anti UV stuff keep the poly from cracking, due to
sunlight, heat? anyone know?

&:-)) Paul '88 XJ6 VP 127K miles (black on doeskin)
Garland, Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from vettelen sent Tue 29 Apr 2003:

When you have finish problems, it is due to heat and moisture. The
door wood trim on your car is plywood with a thin veneer on it. It
is moisture and heat that will cause it to lift and crack. I do not
know what type of adhesives are used, but if they are the old
fashioned type, they are not resistant to these things.–
The original message included these comments:

Is there a product recommended for protecting the wood veneer from
the UV rays, and whatever else causes its deterioration? Len


uncle
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In reply to a message from tigrr%willinet.net sent Wed 30 Apr 2003:

Jay I’m intrigued by the idea of removing the poly (I’ve heard
can be done with a blowdryer on high heat setting and a paint
scraper) and trying the Min Wax, as you suggest.

Do you have any pics of your wood you could post or email?

(btw, whatever happened to Roger Formby, everyone? LOL)–
&:-)) Paul '88 XJ6 VP 127K miles (black on doeskin)
Garland, Texas, United States
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Uncle

Of 20 years of Jags I never had the trim on the door crack. The plywood was always good and is on my current car which has perfect wood trip aside from the start of a few
crack on the ski slope. My experience was the factory clear coat was way to thick to allow for the different expansion rate of the wood and thick coating.
The dash o my 80 Series III cracked badly (just the clear coat) at 36000. The dash on my 82 Cracked at ~40000 (& ski slopes both cars). The coating on the glove box door
of my 85 cracked a piece fell off (it was at least 1/16th" thick.
My 85 Ski slope cracked at 85000 (dash was ok at 138,000 when I sold it.
My current car is fine other than a few cracks on the ski slope). I don’t ever recall any delamination of the plywood but this is only my experience with 4 Jaguars over
20 years. If I had to hazard a guess it is the thickness of the factory clear coat that is the problem.

Jay 90 Majestic 200,000

uncle wrote:

In reply to a message from vettelen sent Tue 29 Apr 2003:

When you have finish problems, it is due to heat and moisture. The
door wood trim on your car is plywood with a thin veneer on it. It
is moisture and heat that will cause it to lift and crack. I do not
know what type of adhesives are used, but if they are the old
fashioned type, they are not resistant to these things.

The original message included these comments:

Is there a product recommended for protecting the wood veneer from
the UV rays, and whatever else causes its deterioration? Len


uncle
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