hi, I’ve been thinking of sanding back my woodwork and re appling a
new clear top coat.i got some cheap vent surrounds to practice
on.out with the paint stripper that I’ve used in the house on paint
and varnish which worked very well.painted it on,left for 10 mins.
as per insts.wipped it off and no affect.painted on again and left
for half an hour,still no affect.what the hell did jag put in this
clear coat.using this stuff in the house this way would have gone
through 4 layers of paint in no time.any ideas out there. thanks
rob…–
spurs
perth, Australia
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In reply to a message from spurs sent Fri 1 Feb 2008:
Spurs,
I’ve been thinking about doing the same. You might want to
search some of the archives from the other JL lists, or even
post to those forums. You’ll find more wood restoration
advice from the folks with older cars, I’d guess.
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In reply to a message from spurs sent Fri 1 Feb 2008:
Hi there I reckon your going to have a hard time removing
the clear coat finish on your wood it’s probably one of the
new polyester coatings as used on things like grand pianos
and the new type wooden steering wheels. I was reading an
article on repairing these modern finishes and the consensus
was that they are unaffected by normal stripping methods and
that the only way of removal is by abrasion . Rustins if i
remember right do a brushable polyester resin which after
curing can be highly polished up Derek.–
The original message included these comments:
hi, I’ve been thinking of sanding back my woodwork and re appling a
new clear top coat.i got some cheap vent surrounds to practice
as per insts.wipped it off and no affect.painted on again and left
for half an hour,still no affect.what the hell did jag put in this
clear coat.using this stuff in the house this way would have gone
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
I have restored several dashboards from the S3 XJ6 and the only way was to
apply a very thick coat of stripper, leave for half an hour then eyeball the
layer of stripper to look for low spots and apply more to those areas. Then
leave for 3 or 4 hours and wait for the laquer to start to bubble up then
scrape it off. You will find that some small areas will need a second
application.
hi, I’ve been thinking of sanding back my woodwork and re appling a new
clear top coat.i got some cheap vent surrounds to practice on.out with the
paint stripper that I’ve used in the house on paint and varnish which worked
very well.painted it on,left for 10 mins.
as per insts.wipped it off and no affect.painted on again and left for half
an hour,still no affect.what the hell did jag put in this clear coat.using
this stuff in the house this way would have gone through 4 layers of paint
in no time.any ideas out there. thanks rob…
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In reply to a message from spurs sent Fri 1 Feb 2008:
In all honesty, I’m not sure the wood trim for the dash
vents is repairable in many cases. The veneer is VERY thin
and simply glued to a metal form. If the veneer has lifted
from the metal, it’ll be very difficult to do much shy of
re-veneering the entire dash trim.
If the original wood and finish are in good shape, I think
the best course of action would be to use bronze wool to
roughen up the surface of the finish an apply a few new
coats of poly atop of the original.
Such a repair would hide most of the cracks and blemishes
time has inflicted on the trim without the very real risk of
destroying the veneer.–
91 XJ6, 93 Sov, 97 Sov – Driveway’s crowded!
Tampa Fl, United States
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In reply to a message from Win sent Sat 2 Feb 2008:
Re: Re-finishing Dash
here is how you redo your dash. I have just done mine on a 87
Sovereign: Put on paint stripper, and cover with plastic - let sit
for about 1/2 hr, until it starts to bubble, if no bubbles appear
after that, apply some more. Once bubbles appear - small spots -
take a paint brush about 1/4 ‘’ to 1/2 ‘’ wide ( brush used for oil
painting ) brush off stripper where it bubbles. This will take
about 2 days - very slow tedious process, due to approx. 15 layers
of lacquer. When all the lacquer is stripped off, use very very
fine sandpaper and clean off any residue. to finish the dash poly
urethan will give you a high gloss, however it is very soft and
cannot be rubbed out. the best finish to use is Nitrocellulose
Stringed instrument spraying lacquer. This type is being used for
wood instruments. It can be polished and buffed to a high gloss. It
is best to find a person who repairs guitars, violins etc., he/she
might be able to spray it on for you and polish it. If you like an
amber color which gives it a warm look it can be mixed in.
You might want to give this approach a try - I believe it will be
well worth it.Good luck
Roland
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In reply to a message from spurs sent Fri 1 Feb 2008:
I am not sure what finish is on the veneers, but it behaves like
catalyzed polyurethane or catalyzed lacquer, a commercial finish
for veneer doors and furniture. This material is essentially a
clear durable material that levels well and takes sunlight better
than epoxy. It most likelty is not applied in multiple layers but
possibly only two or three at the most. I suggest using a good
quality methylene chloride stripper which is made for catalyzed
resins. It will come off, you just need the right stuff. If you can
bring yourself to using a commercial product, you will have better
luck. Besway Systems products is a good place to look. The veneers
on this car are very thin and not wood backed, so they are tender
and I would not subject them to long periods of soaking in
chemicals or the glues may lift. If this happens, it will be
ruined. You also would have littel luck trying to repair it at home
as the veneers are applied on special equipment that makes the
venners as pliable as gum. You need a powerful remover that works
fast.–
The original message included these comments:
hi, I’ve been thinking of sanding back my woodwork and re appling a
new clear top coat.i got some cheap vent surrounds to practice
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from RolandT sent Mon 4 Feb 2008:
I have to say that, though I am not a professional woodworker, I am
about as experienced as any amatuer could hope to be: And the
finish on my 89 XJ40 door trim is just amazing. Enough moisture has
gotten under it so that the burl grain does not show through as it
should. But it is STILL almost impossible to remove. I know that
sanding it off will ruin it because the veneer is thin, but I have
tried every locally available stripper and they do absolutely
nothing. They don’t even dull the finish, let alone remove it!
I finally, little by little, flaked of the finish with an Exacto
knife. Brutal! I just can’t believe that there could be a finish
like this which separated from the wood enough to look like it
should just fall off…while still hanging on for dear life and
being completely impervious to strippers that would dissolve skin!
Certainly not like the varnish I easily removed on my old '66 3.8S!
I’ve never encountered any finish like this stuff! I did not try to
wrap the wood in plastic, but coat after coat of the stripper had
no effect at all, whether it sat for minutes or hours!–
olen soifer, '89 XJ40
Mays Landing, United States
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