[xj40] Rremoving 1990 LHD Passenger Side Blower Federal Spec. [better discription than on line book]

The blower is finally out after many hours work [as opposed to the 45-90
minutes quoted in the online book for the Driver’ side blower removal]
RHD obviously since it required removal of the steering wheel parts.

Nothing in the online book was of any use in removing this blower. The
online book data is for a RHD drive car. There was some helpful test
data on the electronics but this book would benefit by having the
following information added for a LHD passenger side blower removal.

On the 1990 VDP Majestic the hardest part was figuring out where the
fastenings were and what to do with the galvanized shelf the blower
appeared to sit on and be fastened too. Disregard any directions in the
MAP shop manual which indicated there were two feet on the bottom with
screws through from the bottom of the tray as well as instructions to
remove the computers [2} from under the tray and drop the tray. This
tray can be removed but its not necessary for removal.

The basic steps are the same as other blower removal but this list is
far more complete for a LHD car.

  1. Remove the knee bolster, then the metal panel behind the knee
    bolster the screws are on the bottom corners.
  2. Remove the glove box door [take the inside panels off so the
    retaining curved brackets can be disconnected so as to not ruin the box
    liner [there are stops on the back of the liner that hold the door level
    when you open it]
  3. Remove the light on the LH side and push inside the hole
  4. Remove the trunk remote switch and the screw behind it which holds
    in the LH side panel in the back of the liner box.
  5. Remove the brace at the bottom of the dash that the door hinge was
    bolted too.
  6. Disconnect the plugs after putting tape on both halves with an
    identifying match number. Its really a lot of “stuff” that needs to be
    moved out of the way so you can get at the blower and pull it out
  7. Pull out the glove box liner with the relay panel [disconnecting the
    connector that holds the remote switch wiring]. You don’t have to
    unbolt it from the dash because the brace at the bottom of the dash is
    not there to stop it coming out that way [lots easier than trying to get
    a philips head screw driver on the impossible to reach screws that are
    likely to be frozen and beyond the torque of a philips head screwdriver.
  8. Remove the silver 4 x 6 inch electronic gear box with no ID to the
    left of the blower [this will give you access to the 10 mm bolt at the
    top of the blower housing at the back.
  9. Behind the silver box there is a metal brace with a cutout in the
    center that shows the vinyl sleeve connecting the blower housing to the
    vents. There are two philips head screws at the bottom holding to
    plastic wire clips holding cables and two grounds. The bottom screws
    connect a galvanized tray that runs the width of the passenger space and
    under the blower housing. The top part connects to some bracing and is
    held in with two 10 mm bolts, you need to remove.
    9 Remove the side panel that covers the right front pillar fuse box so
    you can see the bolt in the top of the RH side of the blower.
    10 The tray does not have to come out but it can be removed if you
    remove the square head bolt on the bottom in the center that holds the
    tray to the cowl. There is an electronic box that looks like an ECU of
    some kind that may have to come down to check for other fastening.
    11 Get a 2 foot long heavy duty [blade type] Screw Driver and sharpen
    the tip like a chisel. You will need this to chip the interfering
    plastic from around the bolt that prevents you from getting a 10 mm
    socket on the head [especially on the RH side where there is no room to
    maneuver]. Chip the plastic brace back so you can get at the bolt head.
    12 Get a 1/4" drive ratchet and 14" extension, remove the bolts at the
    top of the blower housing. Its a bit tight on the right side but the
    tray angles in so you can insert the extension behind the vacuum
    actuator that is riveted on the lower right hand side of the blower
    housing. It would be a lot easier if this unit had been screwed on the
    housing so you could remove it to have room to put the extension on the
    bolt head but they obviously mounted the blower and then built the car
    around it. They sure must have had faith in the guy that built the
    blower is all I can say or were just plain not concerned with reparability.
    13 After you have spent an hour or so trying to move the rachet enough
    in the cramped space for the right hand bolt, remove the tape on the
    blower to vinyl tube and remove the tube.
    14 Disconnect the vacuum tube from the vacuum actuator riveted to the
    blower housing.
    15 Disconnect the same line from the fittings on the outside of the
    housing that you disconnected from the vacuum actuator pull the fittings
    off so you can thread the tubing through the some kind of fitting on the
    blower housing [the fittings wont slip through but the tube will] so it
    wont prevent the blower from being pulled out.
    16 Pry the two relay sockets off the bracket riveted to the bottom right
    hand side of the blower housing next to the vacuum actuator. These
    sockets hold the relays and slip over a blade type fitting on the
    bracket. There are 4 blades only two used. I have no idea what these
    relays are for but they are not the two that are inside the blower housing.
    17 Remove the vinyl tube and pull the housing out from the bottom, the
    tray will flex enough] pulling on the right hand bottom and out
    [twisting it slight] and the housing will come out easily.
    18 Disconnect the black round connector after marking it with tape
    [there is another one the same size and color you could confuse it with

I’d post this to the on line book if I knew how but I don’t and am too
tired. So if someone who does would be so kind as to cut and paste it
in the online book perhaps others wont have to struggle as much as I did.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as repair, it should be pretty much the same thought there seems
to be additional equipment in this blower. On the outside near the top
there is a strip of rotting black open cell foam about 3 inches wide and
the width of the bower housing at that point. On top of this there is a
transistor of some type [unknown function at this time]. On the inside
of the case directly opposite the foam there is another layer of black
rotting foam one must assume this is supposed to be for sound attenuation?

In addition on the inside there is some kind of humidity sensor [best
guess]. The sensor is inside the case and has a bare metal tip that is
a corroded galvanized color. How this fits will have to be doped out
from the schematic but if anyone knows how this extra stuff works or why
its needed, it would be appreciated if someone would let me know.

Jay 90 Vanden Plas Majestic

PS thanks to Arnoud, Chris Jamison and Scott Roberts who’s help was

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