The blower is finally out after many hours work [as opposed to the 45-90
minutes quoted in the online book for the Driver’ side blower removal]
RHD obviously since it required removal of the steering wheel parts.
Nothing in the online book was of any use in removing this blower. The
online book data is for a RHD drive car. There was some helpful test
data on the electronics but this book would benefit by having the
following information added for a LHD passenger side blower removal.
On the 1990 VDP Majestic the hardest part was figuring out where the
fastenings were and what to do with the galvanized shelf the blower
appeared to sit on and be fastened too. Disregard any directions in the
MAP shop manual which indicated there were two feet on the bottom with
screws through from the bottom of the tray as well as instructions to
remove the computers [2} from under the tray and drop the tray. This
tray can be removed but its not necessary for removal.
The basic steps are the same as other blower removal but this list is
far more complete for a LHD car.
- Remove the knee bolster, then the metal panel behind the knee
bolster the screws are on the bottom corners.
- Remove the glove box door [take the inside panels off so the
retaining curved brackets can be disconnected so as to not ruin the box
liner [there are stops on the back of the liner that hold the door level
when you open it]
- Remove the light on the LH side and push inside the hole
- Remove the trunk remote switch and the screw behind it which holds
in the LH side panel in the back of the liner box.
- Remove the brace at the bottom of the dash that the door hinge was
- Disconnect the plugs after putting tape on both halves with an
identifying match number. Its really a lot of “stuff” that needs to be
moved out of the way so you can get at the blower and pull it out
- Pull out the glove box liner with the relay panel [disconnecting the
connector that holds the remote switch wiring]. You don’t have to
unbolt it from the dash because the brace at the bottom of the dash is
not there to stop it coming out that way [lots easier than trying to get
a philips head screw driver on the impossible to reach screws that are
likely to be frozen and beyond the torque of a philips head screwdriver.
- Remove the silver 4 x 6 inch electronic gear box with no ID to the
left of the blower [this will give you access to the 10 mm bolt at the
top of the blower housing at the back.
- Behind the silver box there is a metal brace with a cutout in the
center that shows the vinyl sleeve connecting the blower housing to the
vents. There are two philips head screws at the bottom holding to
plastic wire clips holding cables and two grounds. The bottom screws
connect a galvanized tray that runs the width of the passenger space and
under the blower housing. The top part connects to some bracing and is
held in with two 10 mm bolts, you need to remove.
9 Remove the side panel that covers the right front pillar fuse box so
you can see the bolt in the top of the RH side of the blower.
10 The tray does not have to come out but it can be removed if you
remove the square head bolt on the bottom in the center that holds the
tray to the cowl. There is an electronic box that looks like an ECU of
some kind that may have to come down to check for other fastening.
11 Get a 2 foot long heavy duty [blade type] Screw Driver and sharpen
the tip like a chisel. You will need this to chip the interfering
plastic from around the bolt that prevents you from getting a 10 mm
socket on the head [especially on the RH side where there is no room to
maneuver]. Chip the plastic brace back so you can get at the bolt head.
12 Get a 1/4" drive ratchet and 14" extension, remove the bolts at the
top of the blower housing. Its a bit tight on the right side but the
tray angles in so you can insert the extension behind the vacuum
actuator that is riveted on the lower right hand side of the blower
housing. It would be a lot easier if this unit had been screwed on the
housing so you could remove it to have room to put the extension on the
bolt head but they obviously mounted the blower and then built the car
around it. They sure must have had faith in the guy that built the
blower is all I can say or were just plain not concerned with reparability.
13 After you have spent an hour or so trying to move the rachet enough
in the cramped space for the right hand bolt, remove the tape on the
blower to vinyl tube and remove the tube.
14 Disconnect the vacuum tube from the vacuum actuator riveted to the
15 Disconnect the same line from the fittings on the outside of the
housing that you disconnected from the vacuum actuator pull the fittings
off so you can thread the tubing through the some kind of fitting on the
blower housing [the fittings wont slip through but the tube will] so it
wont prevent the blower from being pulled out.
16 Pry the two relay sockets off the bracket riveted to the bottom right
hand side of the blower housing next to the vacuum actuator. These
sockets hold the relays and slip over a blade type fitting on the
bracket. There are 4 blades only two used. I have no idea what these
relays are for but they are not the two that are inside the blower housing.
17 Remove the vinyl tube and pull the housing out from the bottom, the
tray will flex enough] pulling on the right hand bottom and out
[twisting it slight] and the housing will come out easily.
18 Disconnect the black round connector after marking it with tape
[there is another one the same size and color you could confuse it with
I’d post this to the on line book if I knew how but I don’t and am too
tired. So if someone who does would be so kind as to cut and paste it
in the online book perhaps others wont have to struggle as much as I did.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As far as repair, it should be pretty much the same thought there seems
to be additional equipment in this blower. On the outside near the top
there is a strip of rotting black open cell foam about 3 inches wide and
the width of the bower housing at that point. On top of this there is a
transistor of some type [unknown function at this time]. On the inside
of the case directly opposite the foam there is another layer of black
rotting foam one must assume this is supposed to be for sound attenuation?
In addition on the inside there is some kind of humidity sensor [best
guess]. The sensor is inside the case and has a bare metal tip that is
a corroded galvanized color. How this fits will have to be doped out
from the schematic but if anyone knows how this extra stuff works or why
its needed, it would be appreciated if someone would let me know.
Jay 90 Vanden Plas Majestic
PS thanks to Arnoud, Chris Jamison and Scott Roberts who’s help was
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