[xj40] Starter Motor

XJ40
21

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Tue 18 Sep 2007:

Having experience seeing and trying to remove nuts on agricultural
tractors/tools and off road cars, I can say that there are two
options to remove a tight nut: with an air operated impact wrench
or with a long tube that increases the arm lenght of the
ratchet/braking bar.

The position in which you are trying to remove the nut is also
important, so if the car is in a lift or one has a well in the
garage (like some shops have), that will make the job easier.

I’ve seen large nuts, in excess of 1’’ size that were almost welded
by dust, rust and lots of junk, removed with large (1+ m lenght)
steel tubes. That tubes are part of the tool stock in any descent
farm workshop, you can’t imagine the amount of impossible to loosen
nuts one can see in the course of a year at those sites. A stock
of strong arms and hands are also highly recomended :slight_smile:

I suggest to use WD40 or some of the spray and pray stuff in large
quantities some 24-48 hours before loosening one of those tight
nuts and repeat the application every 4 hours during that period.
Is a good idea to use antiseize stuff when refitting the nut (a new
nut is highly recomended). Always try to keep the bolts as clean
as possible and covered with a thin film of oily product, that will
avoid extreme corrosion.

The cleanest tractors are the easier to mantain, ask to any John
Deere/Caterpillar/JCB/whatever technician. Thats why I use to
clean the underbody of my car with the pressure washer at the gas
station. Mechanics are surprised how clean the car is from below,
almost more than the body or the interior :)–
Huaorani Warrior, '92 XJR 4.0, manual gearbox, VIN 653523
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22

In reply to a message from xjr fanatic sent Tue 18 Sep 2007:

My secret weapon for stuck bolts like this is Kroil, the polymer
penetrant from Kano Labs in the US. There is nothing like it that I
know of and it will penetrate better than anything else I have
found. I have been able to break loose engines frozen for years and
ancient exhaust manifold nuts that are just piles of rust. I
restore classic bikes and this oil has saved many an irreplaceable
part. I have never had a bolt soaked in this stuff not come loose,
no matter how corroded it was. the other tool needed for this
problem is an air impact wrench due to the restriceted space for
turning a breaker bar. The best tool I ever bought for my workshop
was a big air compressor.–
Brian Caro 96XJ6 4.0 63E-TypeS1FHC
Newport News, VA, United States
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23

Got to agree with Brian on the kroil, I have never seen anything that
works like it and I have tried them all. Ditto on the air compressor and
impact wrench
Cheers
Barri-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xj40@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xj40@jag-lovers.org] On
Behalf Of Brian Caro
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:07 PM
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xj40] Starter Motor

In reply to a message from xjr fanatic sent Tue 18 Sep 2007:

My secret weapon for stuck bolts like this is Kroil, the polymer
penetrant from Kano Labs in the US. There is nothing like it that I
know of and it will penetrate better than anything else I have
found. I have been able to break loose engines frozen for years and
ancient exhaust manifold nuts that are just piles of rust. I
restore classic bikes and this oil has saved many an irreplaceable
part. I have never had a bolt soaked in this stuff not come loose,
no matter how corroded it was. the other tool needed for this
problem is an air impact wrench due to the restriceted space for
turning a breaker bar. The best tool I ever bought for my workshop
was a big air compressor.

Brian Caro 96XJ6 4.0 63E-TypeS1FHC
Newport News, VA, United States
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services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On
Line Books and more !

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24

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Mon 17 Sep 2007:

Update - and a surprise discovery!

There is no sadder sight than seeing ones beloved
(accursed?) XJ40 strapped to the back of a low loader
en-route to a repair shop - especially when I had to follow
it yesterday in my other car for 25 miles or so at 55 mph or
less. It seemed to take forever - and I was convinced that
every passing driver was pointing at it and smirking with
sadistic pleasure!

I was fortunate that Clive at Nene Specialist Cars in
Peterborough agreed to try and fit in my starter motor
replacement between his many other Jaguar jobs - he is a
very busy guy.

Clive called me this afternoon with good news - and less
good news. The good news is that he managed to remove the
old starter motor, ‘bastard’ bolt not withstanding, and the
old starter was indeed badly worn - hence the long term
occasional ‘graunching’ noise on start-up.

The less good news is that having fitted the new starter
motor, although the old ‘graunching’ noise has gone, the new
‘stuck in mesh’ problem is still there!

Clive determined that when the ignition key is released from
the ‘crank’ position (III) after the engine starts, there is
battery power still on the starter solenoid, holding the
gear in mesh as long as the key is in the ‘run’ position
(II). His further analysis isolated the fault to the
ignition switch itself and a replacement (DBC5675) is on
order from Jaguar spares.

I’ve told Clive to change the switch before I pick up the
car, just to make sure that it is the final drama in this
saga - hopefully.

So there’s another lesson, folks. Just because your starter
is making ‘graunching’ noises occasionally on start-up, do
not assume that, if and when it sticks in mesh after the
engine starts, the problem, is mechanical - it may be
electrical!!!

That being the case, and since the missus (when we thought
it was a mechanical problem) has been bending my ear along
the lines of ‘‘What would we have done if this problem had
happened when we were in France two weeks ago with fourteen
dozen bottles of wine in the car?’’ (apart from saying ‘‘I’d
get drunk!’’) I think I see a ‘get you home work around’ if
it happens again.

I think (on a '91 / '92 car) pulling fuse B3 in the right
side fuse box after start-up would have cut power to the
starter solenoid, dropping it out of mesh, and affected
nothing else. Anyone see a flaw in that?–
The original message included these comments:

Well, I know when I’m beat!
Guess where my car is going tomorrow on a flatbed?

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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25

In reply to a message from locost sent Wed 19 Sep 2007:

Anyone know a source of ‘Kroil’ in the UK?
[In case there is a next time!)–
The original message included these comments:

Got to agree with Brian on the kroil, I have never seen anything that
works like it and I have tried them all. Ditto on the air compressor and

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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26

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Wed 19 Sep 2007:

just curious…if the new starter was not making any noise after
start-up, how did the mechanic determine it was still engaged?–
The original message included these comments:

The less good news is that having fitted the new starter
motor, although the old ‘graunching’ noise has gone, the new
‘stuck in mesh’ problem is still there!

–
Cliff - '93 XJ40 Sovereign (4.0L)
Lancaster/South Carolina, United States
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27

In reply to a message from Cliff Archie sent Wed 19 Sep 2007:

There is a difference between the ‘graunching’ noise (not
stuck in mesh) and the ‘whirring’ noise of the starter being
spun by a running engine.–
The original message included these comments:

just curious…if the new starter was not making any noise after
start-up, how did the mechanic determine it was still engaged?

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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28

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Wed 19 Sep 2007:

Another twist to this intriguing (well, at least for me!)
tale and a further update.

Whilst searching for a ‘get you home’ scheme if the ‘stuck
in mesh’ problem occurred again, I had chance to study
further the starter motor circuit diagram.

It seemed to me that if Clive’s theory was correct - i.e. a
defective ignition switch - since that ignition switch in
the ‘start’ position (III) only grounds the starter motor
relay coil to power the solenoid if the gear selector is in
‘P’ or ‘N’, as soon as the gear selector is moved from ‘P’
in to ‘D’, that circuit would be broken and therefore the
starter relay coil could not go to ground and the relay
therefore could not remain energised to maintain power to
the starter solenoid to hold the starter in mesh. I
theorised that, if this were true, the fault must be in the
starter relay, not the ignition switch.

I phoned Clive to get confirmation of this and to his great
credit, he took that view on board and has just put in a
couple of hours overtime looking for another explanation of
why the starter solenoid and relay remain energised when the
ignition key returns from the ‘crank’ position (III) to the
‘run’ position (II).

Clive has just phoned me to report that he believes that the
fault is in the starter inhibit circuit of the aftermarket
alarm system as it interfaces with the starter relay and not
in the ignition switch. He has successfully solved the
problem by dismantling the alarm system starter inhibit
wiring whilst leaving the rest of the alarm / central
locking system intact.

I’ve told him to go firm on that modification to get the car
mobile again and I will worry about the cause in my own time
when I have the car back on the road.

Thank goodness for JHM1130 and an understanding Jaguar
Master Tech who accepts with good grace my amateur attempt
at understanding WITHIH and happily cancelled his order for
a new ignition switch!–
The original message included these comments:

Clive determined that when the ignition key is released from
the ‘crank’ position (III) after the engine starts, there is
battery power still on the starter solenoid, holding the
gear in mesh as long as the key is in the ‘run’ position
(II). His further analysis isolated the fault to the
ignition switch itself and a replacement (DBC5675) is on
order from Jaguar spares.

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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29

There is also a single wire connector (with a white wire) under the hood
near the back of the engine which supplies power to the starter solenoid.
Easy to unplug that to.----- Original Message -----
From: “Bryan N” sophistic@btopenworld.com
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: [xj40] Starter Motor

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Mon 17 Sep 2007:

Update - and a surprise discovery!

There is no sadder sight than seeing ones beloved
(accursed?) XJ40 strapped to the back of a low loader
en-route to a repair shop - especially when I had to follow
it yesterday in my other car for 25 miles or so at 55 mph or
less. It seemed to take forever - and I was convinced that
every passing driver was pointing at it and smirking with
sadistic pleasure!

I was fortunate that Clive at Nene Specialist Cars in
Peterborough agreed to try and fit in my starter motor
replacement between his many other Jaguar jobs - he is a
very busy guy.

Clive called me this afternoon with good news - and less
good news. The good news is that he managed to remove the
old starter motor, ‘bastard’ bolt not withstanding, and the
old starter was indeed badly worn - hence the long term
occasional ‘graunching’ noise on start-up.

The less good news is that having fitted the new starter
motor, although the old ‘graunching’ noise has gone, the new
‘stuck in mesh’ problem is still there!

Clive determined that when the ignition key is released from
the ‘crank’ position (III) after the engine starts, there is
battery power still on the starter solenoid, holding the
gear in mesh as long as the key is in the ‘run’ position
(II). His further analysis isolated the fault to the
ignition switch itself and a replacement (DBC5675) is on
order from Jaguar spares.

I’ve told Clive to change the switch before I pick up the
car, just to make sure that it is the final drama in this
saga - hopefully.

So there’s another lesson, folks. Just because your starter
is making ‘graunching’ noises occasionally on start-up, do
not assume that, if and when it sticks in mesh after the
engine starts, the problem, is mechanical - it may be
electrical!!!

That being the case, and since the missus (when we thought
it was a mechanical problem) has been bending my ear along
the lines of ‘‘What would we have done if this problem had
happened when we were in France two weeks ago with fourteen
dozen bottles of wine in the car?’’ (apart from saying ‘‘I’d
get drunk!’’) I think I see a ‘get you home work around’ if
it happens again.

I think (on a '91 / '92 car) pulling fuse B3 in the right
side fuse box after start-up would have cut power to the
starter solenoid, dropping it out of mesh, and affected
nothing else. Anyone see a flaw in that?

–
The original message included these comments:

Well, I know when I’m beat!
Guess where my car is going tomorrow on a flatbed?

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On
Line Books and more !

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30

Ah, Lucas Electric Strikes again.

Thanks for the update Bryan. I’ve saved the post. And keeping it in
mind in light of my own mystery electrical issues just cropping up on
the transmission.

Glad all is well with your car.

Jay 90 VDP Majestic

At 08:25 AM 9/19/2007, Bryan N wrote:

Update - and a surprise discovery!

Clive determined that when the ignition key is released from the 'crank' position (III) after the engine starts, there is battery power still on the starter solenoid, holding the gear in mesh as long as the key is in the 'run' position (II). His further analysis isolated the fault to the ignition switch itself and a replacement (DBC5675) is on order from Jaguar spares. if and when it sticks in mesh after the engine starts, the problem, is mechanical - it may be electrical!!!!!

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31

Ah, one assumes that the grunching didn’t begin until after the
whirring had gone on for some time.
Jay

At 09:20 AM 9/19/2007, Bryan N wrote:

In reply to a message from Cliff Archie sent Wed 19 Sep 2007:

There is a difference between the ‘graunching’ noise (not
stuck in mesh) and the ‘whirring’ noise of the starter being
spun by a running engine.

The original message included these comments:

just curious…if the new starter was not making any noise after
start-up, how did the mechanic determine it was still engaged?

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary
/ Calendar, On Line Books and more !

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32

In reply to a message from Jay sent Thu 20 Sep 2007:

Jay,

No, it was the other way around. The occasional ‘graunching’
for a second on start-up has been happening on and off for
two or three years. It was like a heavy resonance / chatter,
typical of a worn mechanism as the starter gear was thrown
out of mesh with the starter ring when the engine started.

The ‘stuck in mesh’ problem was instant one day last week.
The starter motor could be heard (and felt) ‘whirring’ VERY
loudly (reminiscent of an old turbine) as soon as the
engine started - the noise rising and falling with the
engine revs.

Obviously, initially I thought that the two ‘noises’ were
connected and that ignoring the ‘graunching’ for all of this
time had lead eventually to the ‘stuck in mesh’ problem now

  • i.e. both noises being mechanical faults. However,‘my
    mechanic’ tells me that the ‘graunching’ was indeed as a
    result of a badly worn starter mechanism (now cleared by
    fitting the new starter) but the ‘stuck in mesh’ problem
    remained because it is/was an entirely separate electrical
    fault causing power to remain applied to the starter
    solenoid even after the key was released from the ‘start’
    position (III) and returned to the 'run position (II).

I’m told that the problem has been overcome by removing the
alarm system ‘engine inhibit’ wiring from the starter relay
(whilst leaving the rest of the alarm system / central
locking intact) and although I cannot yet understand why
that should have caused the problem, I hope to discover more
about the reason for that when I collect the car later today.–
The original message included these comments:

Ah, one assumes that the grunching didn’t begin until after the
whirring had gone on for some time.

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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33

Bryan

I was under the impression that position III pulled in a relay, which
was only energized while in position III. After starting, when you
released the key, this relay should drop out as it has no holding
coil. Apparently something was keeping this relay energized?

I would think the alarm system could have been affected this
relay. Itcould have been to lock it out of the circuit not in. So I
can see where it would be possible to malfunction. But I don’t have
your system and never explored my factory system as there is no
wiring diagram of it that I have anyhow.

My Jaguar Alarm has been disabled and thought the parts are there I
have no fob and the valet switch is on but it makes no difference
either way. I have the alarm horn and other components I have
stumbled across but no idea how its connected or disabled. Now I’m
beginning to wonder if that could be the cause of my transient limp home mode?

I’ve been afraid to take any parts out since I didn’t know who it was
rigged to avoid just such problems. Its been non functioning for 14
years without problems so why bother. Now I need to trace the
transient electrical problem so any information on how your sytem is
hooked up and if its the Jaguar OEM one would be appreciated.

Jay 90 VDP Majestic

At 01:23 AM 9/20/2007, Bryan N wrote:

In reply to a message from Jay sent Thu 20 Sep 2007:

Jay,

No, it was the other way around. The occasional ‘graunching’
for a second on start-up has been happening on and off for
two or three years. It was like a heavy resonance / chatter,
typical of a worn mechanism as the starter gear was thrown
out of mesh with the starter ring when the engine started.

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34

In reply to a message from Jay sent Thu 20 Sep 2007:

Jay,

The alarm on my car is not Jaguar OE. In the UK in '91 MY,
they did not fit a factory alarm as standard (or as an
option). As I understand the situation, Jaguar dealers were
authorised to retro-fit a ‘Jaguar approved’ aftermarket
alarm to new cars before delivery to the first customer.
That is how my car came with a LaserLine alarm / immobiliser
fitted.

I know of no source for information of how that alarm is
wired in to the standard Jaguar circuits.

You are correct in that when you turn the ignition key to
the ‘start’ position (III), it grounds one side of the coil
of the starter relay to put battery power on to the starter
solenoid. When the key is released from position (III), that
ground is removed and the relay is de-energised to stop the
starter motor - except, on my car it didn’t!

On my car, the ground wire from the starter relay coil via
the transmission rotary switch ‘start inhibit’ function was
cut and wired through the alarm control unit such that, when
the alarm was triggered, the ground circuit from the relay
coil was interrupted so that the relay could not be
energised and no power could go to the starter solenoid
hence, the starter would not crank.

That part I understand, but I do not understand how the
removal of that alarm ‘start inhibit’ function cured the
‘stuck in mesh’ problem I experienced - but it certainly has
done just that and the car (without the alarm immobiliser
working although the rest of the alarm / central locking
does) is now working perfectly. Somehow I believe there has
been an accidental curing of a different fault by the
removal of that alarm wiring, but my trusted mechanic
insists that was all it needed to get rid if the problem.–
The original message included these comments:

I was under the impression that position III pulled in a relay, which
was only energized while in position III. After starting, when you
released the key, this relay should drop out as it has no holding
years without problems so why bother. Now I need to trace the
transient electrical problem so any information on how your sytem is
hooked up and if its the Jaguar OEM one would be appreciated.

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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35

Bryan.

If the alarm circuit was put between your relay as an additional
contact that had to be properly energized by you fob or key opening
the door as is common to such logic, that circuit could easily fail
and keep your coil energized. These circuits act in both directions
as a rule and it looks like a relay in it failed in the wrong
position putting juice to your coil. Not much point in my diagraming
it as it could be done any number of ways.

The Jaguar electrical system is very similar to the old relay
designs used in machine tool controls before solid state came along.
In essences when we wanted to keep a circuit in the loop we would set
it up so that once the coil was energized and second power source as
also added. This kept the original relay coil energized until
another set of relay contacts in the circuit dropped out the power
source. My guess is the alarm system had a similar set up and the
relay that was supposed to let power to your coil drop out didn’t.

Marx Nix (sp) or whatever as the German’s say. Its out and you are
up and running which is more than I can say. Since it did a dumb
thing in helping move some tables at Church last Sunday and
re-injured my shot lumbar disk, I’m not able to do more than spend 10
minutes at a time trouble shooting my Limp Home Mode electrical
problem. Cant for the life of me understand where the water is
leaking in from on the drivers side with no duck bills in my
car. But that seems to be connected to the Limp Home problem? Fuses
are dry and not blown so I don’t know why I had a flickering
lightning bolt. Its gone now but I’m still in limp mode.

Jay

At 02:29 PM 9/20/2007, Bryan N wrote:

You are correct in that when you turn the ignition key to
the ‘start’ position (III), it grounds one side of the coil
of the starter relay to put battery power on to the starter
solenoid. When the key is released from position (III), that
ground is removed and the relay is de-energised to stop the
starter motor - except, on my car it didn’t!
snip

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36

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Thu 20 Sep 2007:

For those who may be similarly afflicted in the future, I
post this summary of ‘what went wrong with my starter’ saga.

The occasional short ‘graunching’ noise on start-up (which I
had ignored for years because it did not seem to affect the
starter function) was due to mechanical wear in the starter
mechanism which could only get worse. So, an exchange Bosch
starter motor (�120 UKP + Tax direct from Bosch) cured that
problem. However, removing the starter was another problem
which I was unable to solve at home with the car on wheel
ramps and the tranny / engine lowered at the rear to gain
access to the ‘backwards’ top bolt despite investing in
quality 13mm 6-point �’’ drive sockets and using an 18’’
breaker bar.

It cost me another �100 UKP to have an independent Jag
specialist change the starter (and solve the third problem -
see below). He eventually removed the upper bolt by using a
special bolt extractor (the type that bites in to the bolt
head as it turns). The bolt was so tight, standard impact
sockets were merely chewing up the bolt head. I now have the
removed bolt in my ‘rogues gallery’ of nasties.
Surprisingly, the 50mm plain shank of the bolt which I had
fully expected to be badly corroded is as clean as a whistle

  • no different to when it was fitted 16 years ago at Jaguar.

The only corrosion - and it doesn’t look that bad at all -
is on the first 20mm of thread - the bit that screws in to
the top lug of the starter motor. I can’t find a torque
figure for that bolt, but it must have been ridiculously
high on initial assembly for an M10 threaded bolt and they
almost certainly used a thread locker of some description on
initial assembly and probably a born-again tyre shop fitter
on the end of an air impact wrench to put it on!

The third problem was the killer - the starter staying in
mesh after the engine started - effectively preventing the
car from being driven any distance - so that it had to be
trailered to the Jag specialist 25 miles away. That is the
only good part of the story - I discovered that my car
insurance which has always included Europe-wide breakdown /
recovery cover now includes ‘home start / recovery’ too, so
the car was trailered 25 miles at no cost to me.

The Jag specialist discovered after fitting the new starter
that the ‘stuck in mesh’ problem was still there and that it
was electrical, not mechanical, and obviously not associated
with the original ‘graunching’ noise as I had first assumed.

For reasons I still don’t fully understand, the fault was
found to be caused by some malfunction of the dealer fitted
aftermarket alarm / immobiliser installation as it affects
the starter motor relay (power was still being applied to
the starter solenoid after the key had been returned from
the ‘start’ to the ‘run’ position). With that particular
immobiliser function now disconnected and the wiring
returned to Jag original, the problem has mysteriously gone
away and the car operates normally - so far!–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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37

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Fri 21 Sep 2007:

good summary Bryan…sounds as if you were going to have to replace
the starter one way or another…either due to the electrical issue
or due to the mechancial wear issue…looks like you were able to
have the work done for less than i…i paid $500 USD to have my
starter and solenoid replaced a couple years ago…–
Cliff - '93 XJ40 Sovereign (4.0L)
Lancaster/South Carolina, United States
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38

Bryan

This may have no bearing on your problem, but I have found that in some
cases of trying to undo a tight old bolt, it is worth grinding the end of
the socket flat as they usually have an internal chamfer which cause the
socket to slip off the bolt head easily.

NW----- Original Message -----
From: “Bryan N” sophistic@btopenworld.com
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: [xj40] Starter Motor

top bolt despite investing in

quality 13mm 6-point �’’ drive sockets and using an 18’’
breaker bar.

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39

In reply to a message from Norman sent Fri 21 Sep 2007:

Norman,

Funny you should mention that feature. I noticed it on both
the Britool and Draper impact wrench sockets I bought - a
slight internal chamfer, perhaps no more than �mm on the
13mm size socket, but a chamfer nevertheless.

Unfortunately, by the time I noticed that, the bolt head was
already starting to look ‘iffy’ so I decided to quit before
I did further damage.

The bolt extractor that the mechanic used was a vicious
looking device - like an ‘inside out’ milling cutter with
‘claws’ which really gripped the head of the bolt - and the
harder you turn, the tighter it grips. Chews up the bolt
head pretty good though in the process - but replacement
bolts are cheap enough!–
The original message included these comments:

This may have no bearing on your problem, but I have found that in some
cases of trying to undo a tight old bolt, it is worth grinding the end of
the socket flat as they usually have an internal chamfer which cause the
socket to slip off the bolt head easily.

–
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, RHD
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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40

Norman wrote:

Bryan

This may have no bearing on your problem, but I have found that in
some cases of trying to undo a tight old bolt, it is worth grinding
the end of the socket flat as they usually have an internal chamfer
which cause the socket to slip off the bolt head easily.
Norman:
Sounds like a good idea. I’ll make note of it. I have another similar
trick or device.
Dot know if you have this tool in the UK but I have one called a bolt
breaker.
Its about 4 x as thick as an open end 13 mm wrench, has a square opening
that is adjustable with a screw advance. If can be snugged up tight
with dead flat surfaces about 3/8" deep and the handle is thick enough
you can hit it with a 2 lb sledge.

Its a lot thinner than a socket and ratchet so it fit in the places on
the front of the engine around the water pump where no socket could grip
the bolts which were frozen in place on my water pump. The tip had
about 6-8 threads deep coating of white aluminum oxide when remove.

Jay 90 VDP Majestic

NW
----- Original Message ----- From: “Bryan N” sophistic@btopenworld.com
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: [xj40] Starter Motor

top bolt despite investing in

quality 13mm 6-point �’’ drive sockets and using an 18’’
breaker bar.

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for
exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary /
Calendar, On Line Books and more !

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !