In reply to a message from Mad Moggie sent Tue 4 May 2010:
My pump failed without any warning whatsoever.
No bad running symptoms from the car, and no increase in
noise level from the pump. The car just failed to start one
By following Bryans process of tracing right back to the
pump connections, and then applying 12 volts directly to the
terminals, it confirmed the fault was inside, and the tank
needed to be removed to go any further.
Working backwards from the tank, the first plug connector
you come to is very suspect, and as it is easy to check I
would look here first. I know of several cars where this has
overheated and the internal spades have blackened making a
poor intermittent contact. You do not need to remove the
tank to access this or the evaporative loss flange
terminals, only if you need to remove the flange from the
tank completely. If the pump doesn’t run with 12 volts
directly to the terminals located within the flange then
only then will it need to be removed. It could save you time
This was also the case with my car. Not long after I first
bought it five years ago it began stalling occasionally and
then refused to start completely. When I traced the fault I
chopped that plug out of the system and made my own.
It was at least 50,000 miles later when the pump actually
failed so I don’t think it was a failing pump drawing extra
current that caused this plug connector to fail.
When I finally managed to get the pipe connectors off the
tank, the inside of both connectors were like brand new, all
the corrosion is on the outside and will brush off easily
with a wire brush.
The ’ low fuel ’ petrol pump symbol will sometimes appear
on my car when I have at least a quarter tank.
It can remain lit for around a minute or so with the gauge
reading in the red sector if I have had to brake hard for
instance, or if I park with two wheels on a pavement. It
always corrects itself and reads steadily afterwards, it has
always been like this during my ownership.
There can be lots of reasons for the engine to stall at a
junction, I think the misleading info you have received
regarding the fuel pump/ low fuel, has not helped at all,
and may even have you looking in the wrong place.
A fuel pressure test may certainly be helpful in diagnosing
what caused the cut out, but it will not prove conclusively
how much service life is left in the pump.
The original message included these comments:
evaporative loss flange connector also. And I note that Steve
no access to it at all even externally with the tank in situ) it
might then be sensible to put in the new pump. The pump certainly
Casso - 1993 4.0 Sovereign.
Liverpool, United Kingdom
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