XJ6 Engine in E Type

I know there have been a number of previous posts on the subject of putting an XJ6 engine in an E type

I am aware of most of the issues associated with this.

However, one issue I cannot find a definite answer on is the water pump issue. some posts suggest the existing pump fits, but it is a tight fit.

Other posts suggest a water pump from a Series 2 E type

Does anyone know the best solution to this? does a Series 2 E Type pump fit?

thanks

Peter

Be careful! It has been a long time since I put an XJ6 block in my OTS so this may be entirely backwards. But I believe I was told to keep an XJ6 water pump in the engine, I ended up giving it away. I also got one with a too small impeller and the engine bypass(?) nipple wasn’t on the back facing under the carbs. Also the pulleys aren’t interchangeable.

Only other issues are the cam oiler lines feed off the filter block and you need an XKE sump and transmission bracket cut fit above the torsion bar reaction plate.

Hi Peter, Yes with the age of our chariots, a few of us have opted for the XJ6 block exchange. In my case the original block was timexed at .40 thou over and no room for more without pulling cans and starting again. In retrospect, I might consider it now but that ship has sailed.

The XJ6 Block that I have came without heads, sump or water pump (short block). But the holes and the crank were all standard, so in essence a clean sheet. I used my original head and sump (no problem) and the water pump from my original engine too.

However and as mentioned by Michael, the cam oil line feed required some Imagineering. My initial attempt was to pull the rear plug from the oil gallery, drill, and tap it for a 1/8" brass pipe nipple. This didn’t work our as there was not enough meat in the plug wall to contain the nipple safely…

Plan B was the winner. I added a brass T to the top of my oil filter / block housing (which also accommodated a manual oil pressure gauge line to my dash), then adapted the existing cam feed lines to this fitting. This worked (works) well with a no leaks and , ample oil flow to the cams.

The XJ6 block (mid 70’s in my case) is a viable option with a few minor mods. best regards, Brian/Mytype

I really like on your engine how the spark plug wire conduit sits up high next to the cam cover. I might have to try that one. It was missing on my car when I got it but I did not want to risk loosening those head nuts again on my old engine just to attach the conduit brackets.

David
68 E-type FHC

Lynn Gardner ran an XJ6 engine in his: runs JUST like an original, and (generally) way less expensive to source and to repair

I put a XJ6 engine in my MK2 , I was not sure what way to go with the water pump , in the end I just bolted the old MK2 pump on the front !

Hi Guys,

Many thanks for the replies/help.

Brian/Ian like the look of your engines.

My situation is the car I bought came with an XJ6 engine the PO was going to fit, so I have no original engine with the car.

The engine I was told had been reconditioned just before removal from the donor car, but this was 25 years ago, having stripped down the engine I found it was extremely good, I am currently having the valves re seated and head skimmed, but other wise all good

So far I have obtained an E Type sump and exhaust manifolds, and as car is a US import a pair of Stromberg carbs (maybe some time in the future I may try get hold of some SU’s)

As I understand, I fit the E Type sump, redesign oil feed from filter back into sump, the oil feeder lines to cam I can leave as is?

I have seen mention the the angle engine brackets need “trimming” to fit the reaction plate, but unsure of how much to trim yet.

So the pump I have is the original XJ6 8L engine pump, my problem is do I attempt to fit this or is it better to try fit a series 2 pump, to give the appearance of a “normal” series 2 engine.
I did not want to leave the pump off then find I cannot fit with engine in situ

The one other issue I can see I will have is pulley alignment, originally the car had power steering and was left hand drive, I am converting to RHD and manual rack so will have no need for power steering pump, not sure all this affects pulley set up just yet.

Any help much appreciated

Peter

I wanted to make the XJ6 engine look like a 340 engine , I have had no issues fitting the MK2 pump to the front of the XJ6 engine , the MK2’s impeller is around about 5mm smaller ,
I did not want to strip my engine down , but as yours is , you could fit the front timing cover from a early engine , to fit the right pump !

C.28414 is the correct pump for the application if the XJ6 engine is a later variant requiring a 3" impeller.

Wiggy has an excellent memory, after several failed professional(?) rebuilds on my original engine I had enough and found a running '85 XJ6 that I harvested the engine from for $400. It was a pretty straight forward conversion as outlined by the previous posts and the engine ran great for many ‘oil leaks’. 2 years ago I decided to rebuild the original engine myself and knock on wood-finally have it right.
At some point I’ll rebuild the XJ6 engine and have a spare :wink:
Thanks for thinking of me Paulie…
Cheers,
LLynn

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I’m here for ya, brah!

Maybe someone could send you a picture or buy a new set.

Not a good idea Ian.
A 2-3/4 impeller will cavitate in the involute designed for the later 3" variant.

Use an electric pump.?

Works fine , no over heating issues !

I have stripped down a few XK engines , and they all have had more silt built up at there rear , that’s why on the later XK engines there is 2 extra water ways , Jaguar knew there was a problem , all I have done is remove the drain tap , added a straight connector , to that run a hose to a S-type electric pump , to a T in the heater system , now and again I flick the switch to increase the flow to the back end , to stop the silt , from starting to build up , most people who have replaced the core plugs will know about the silt

Hi guys

Many thanks for all the feedback.

Michael, re angle brackets, for some reason I am struggling to find these brackets on the parts list (SNG) looked under engine mounts etc, but could not find anything.

thanks

Peter

Wirth looking into seeing if the later E-type water pipes would line up !

Are you certain of that Doug? Pete Petersen would have had the answer, RIP.

As an amateur, I thought cavitation occurs when pumping ‘to the max’. I.e. creating low pressure pockets where the liquid turns to its gaseous state, especially at acute angles or sharp edges in the fluid flow path. An undersize impeller would certainly result in reduced/lower efficiency pumping, due to bigger clearances. But intuitively I would expect that to mean less chance of cavitation?

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I have a XJ6 S3 engine in my Series 1 E-type. I did not need to change the engine mount brackets. A XJ6 non-oil cooler spin on fllter is very effective. Only problem is the S3 water pump is about 20 mm longer than the 3.8 water pump (original clearance to picture frame was only 25 mm). The XJ6 S3 water pump is much better than the earlier versions but the outlet needs a simple adapter). The water pump shaft protudes from the pulley. The inside of the water pump can be ground down increasing the protusion - which can be ground off giving a clearance of about 20 mm to picture frame. I use the standard XJ6 water pump pulley and crankshaft pulley - may need a spacer on the crankshaft pulley to line up the belts.
Car is stored until end of April but I will offer any advice you need.
John