The upward pointing S1 license plate light that mounts on the top of the rear bumper no longer has replacement parts available. This makes restoration a little more challenging since the long clear lens typically breaks and the horizontal placement of the light body tends to attract moisture and lots of rust.
We blasted the original mount, filled in the bottom with fiberglass resin to seal all the rust holes, retrofitted festoon LEDs and then 3D printed a new lens cover. Now looks and works great.
Thanks for the useful post! What type of “chrome” paint did you use on the number plate light? Also, don’t amber coloured lenses diminish the efficacy of the already dim reversing lights?
Not sure if you’re open for “tarting” or if you are trying to stay original. If the former, I’ll mention a couple of things I’ve done.
Retaining the all-red lens (factory for 68-72; then amber for 73) you can replace the single-filament bulb with a double-filament. Then, both bulbs (not just one) operate together as the tail light (brighter, distributing the light). As before, one bulb doubles as brake light and the other as turn signal light.
Hella, Lucas, or VW beetle chrome reversing lights (or clear lens fog lights) can be fitted below the bumper, with modern halogen or LED bulbs. Then, the original reversing lights can be wired as “third” brake lights, with lenses dyed red. Alternatively, a Series 3 third brake light fits behind the rear window just as it does on the Series 3. All of the below-bumper reversing light options are brighter than the original.
The side marker light at the rear, which sticks out from the boat tail rear wing in order to have its surface parallel to the road, can be replaced with one from an MGB. Its profile is the same as the amber marker light at front.
We just used spray chrome colored automotive paint. The surface appearance doesn’t matter – it’s covered by the lens – but it does increase reflectivity and helps the LED output.
Our “restomod” project certainly isn’t trying to stay original! We have swapped in a 430HP Chevy LS3 with automatic transmission and push button shift, for example.
You are correct that amber colored lenses can reduce efficiency if the light source isn’t amber as well. The festoons LEDs we have in the reverse lights are very bright but also white. We are going to retain the clear/white reverse lenses instead of substituting the amber European style (clear lenses are apparently no longer manufactured), but more for appearance and safety reasons than due to light output concerns.
Our front amber side marker, BTW, doesn’t seem to have any better profile than the red rear one. Both are a little awkward fit.
Our blog about the XJ6 Restomod project has full details on the license plate lens – a PDF drawing and the STL file for 3D printing as well as complete part information – available at http://krissmotors.com/WP/2018/08/12/led-bulbs-and-sockets/
We don’t sell any parts or kits. The STL can be used by most 3D printers. The lens will require sanding/finishing. Also our name “Kriss Motors” is engraved on the bottom of the lens, but this isn’t visible when the lens is installed or lit.
If you don’t have a 3D printer available, you can try 3Dhubs.com – cost of printing will probably be $15-20. Just upload the STL file.