XJSC not started since 1994 - not turning when manually turned at crank


Not sure if link will work. If this dies work, it shows me turning the key and the lights on dash and the click heard from starter motor.

Thank you


That’s good news indeed Jaye !

There are many possibilities, start with the easy ones.
First of all you need a repair manual and electrical diagrams.
Make sure your inertia switch is not tripped (it would behave exactly as in your video).
Starter relay maybe stuck. You can manually connect the corresponding terminals and see if the starter works.
Try also to connect the starter directly to the battery.
Starter itself is stuck. Sometimes a good hit does the trick.
Starter might indeed be bad, a known PITA to change… there is a resent thread by Gragma on the subject, and a good opportunity to replace it with a reduction starter.

A endoscope camera can be very useful to examine the condition of your cylinders. If there are no visible signs of water ingress and rust, I think it would be even worth the time, money and effort to replace the starter so you can do the compression test.
Anything at this point looks better than having to replace the engine…!
Good luck.

Dear Aristides

Thank you for this really helpful information (especially the diagrams). I looked at the starter diagrams and it really gave me clarity. I kept looking at the wires in the car thinking that I would never have a clue as to the electrics of the car.

I took off the starter relay today (unfortunately before I read your very helpful post) and opened it up with a view to soldering any loose joints but they were all perfectly in tact and all looked clean and new inside. I then replaced it and re-connected the wires.

I found the starter and tried hitting solenoid but that did not do the trick.

I will try connecting wires into the starter relay to see if I can by-pass the relay that way.

I found it really hard to see the starter motor solenoid. Have you any tips to get to the terminals (to connect to battery) or is it a case of fishing around for the terminals?

I have just read post on inertia switch being located in box by footwell and pressing button to reset so I will do so tomorrow. It may have tripped because I connected fuel pump to battery to drain the 27 year old petrol and put some fresh fuel in (picture attached).

I have noticed that I am now getting small electric/static shocks when I touch the body of the car (battery unconnected). I am not sure if that is something I have done…



No, this would not trip the inertia switch. Should definitely check though. It has a little plunger, it should be pushed in. Check also with a multi meter to be sure it has continuity.

Electric/static shocks it’s just that, static.

The starter is better accessible from bellow.
You might have a better peak from above if you remove the complete air filter box.

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Hi All

I hope everyone is keeping well.

I have great news…the starter motor turns over and engages engine. This tops the happiness I felt when I could actually manually turn the engine.

I connected the starter directly to the battery and it spun but did not engage with the flywheel. I gave the solenoid a few bangs and tried again and it engaged the flywheel and started turning the engine. I have plugs out and coil and fuel relay disconnected so it turned over without firing up.

I then disconnected the wire from battery to starter motor and connected battery terminals and tried to turn the engine over From the ignition with the key. However, there was nothing except the click which I previously thought was the starter motor but which is not the starter motor, rather, I think, the starter relay.

I took the starter relay off and undid the c4 wire and then ran a wire from the c4 terminal to the starter (diagram below). I then connected the battery and without the key, it engaged the starter motor.

I then bridged cable for c4 and cable to c2 and it did not engage the starter.

I think I should test starter relay to eliminate it from the cause of fault. Would I test the relay by connecting w2 to positive of battery and then w1 to eg body of car/ negative terminal of battery and then measure across c2 and c4 to see if there is a connection made when power is applied?

I am beginning to fear the problem may be in the wiring after the relay and going to starter motor.

Has anyone got any thoughts?



Well, that’s more good news, your starter works !

I don’t quite understand what you did there…
The circuit is basically: +12V - C2 - C4 - Starter solenoid.
Check if C2 gets power from the ignition switch.
Check if you have have continuity between C2 - C4 when starter relay is energised.
Check if you have have continuity between C4 and starter solenoid.

Did you check the Inertia switch?
Also check the Neutral switch. It’s a micro-switch at the gear selector.

So I spent the last couple of days understanding the electronic circuitry between the battery and ignition and starter relay and starter motor. I purchase a multimeter ready to test continuity and voltage to pinpoint the fault.

During my reading I red and article about cleaning the earth points so I removed the batter and got access to the 3 sets of bolted cables and one by one I undid the bolt and meticulously sanded of the rust and corrosion until everything was back to bare metal. There was a fair amount of rust.

I then tried the ignition before undertaking the main diagnostics and IT TURNED OVER!!

No issue with the inertia switch; ignition; gear switch; starter relay nor starter motor. So I just need to install the new plugs; new distributor cap and rotor; leads; and then re-instate coil; AC compressor; and replace the water pump (seized).

Thanks everyone for you help so far, it has been invaluable.

Whilst I have the car in this state, is there anything I need to be doing before putting things back together?

On another note, the brake pads was going to the ground. I added fluid and pumped the brakes and they are hard now. I checked for leaks but could see none. However, the front brakes are bound. Are there any suggestions on how to resolve this issue?

Many Thanks


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Sounds like you will need to remove the calipers and recondition them.

Would I just buy a kit and change drums, rubber washers etc?

No its a bit more involved than that, best see if you can watch some YouTube vids on the process, brakes are not something to play with if you haven’t a good idea of what’s involved.

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Very true.

I think I might do a bolt off and new one bolt on job!

Restoring hydraulics like brake calipers and clutch cylinders is doable, but it can be a fiddly job. Strict cleanliness and care in not damaging the new seals. You also have to make sure you get a good refurbishment kit, a poor quality one is not likely to last very long. Unless the cost is prohibitive, an exchange rebuild is the better option.

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Thank you very much for your advice.


  • Change all your fuel hoses, and that is imperative, especially thee hoses at the fuel injectors.

  • Change your fuel filter

  • Service your distributor, your advance will most probably be stuck. Check also the vacuum advance capsule. Details on Kirby’s book.

  • Check all vacuum hoses

  • Flush and replace your coolant

  • You seem to have a major oil leak at the front, either front main seal or the timing chain tensioner plug.
    You can address both much easier when you will take your radiator out, which is 95% sure it’s blocked.

  • also your sump cover gasket seems to be leaking.
    Give the engine a good wash so you can see what the story is.

Servicing the calipers is easy and inexpensive. You will need new pistons (stainless is better), seals and dust covers.
The hardest part will be to free the frozen pistons.

Besides all the above you’re golden !!

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Thank you very much Aristides. It is so helpful to have a list to work through. I have done fuel filter so that is one off the list.

When you refer to fuel hoses are you talking about this job here?: https://youtu.be/gXovG0zUrTg

When the radiator comes out is it a case of attaching it to a hose and running water through it to unblock or does it need to be replaced?

I posted some pictures of the brakes. The driver side (RHD) is binding but the passenger side is functioning. I think for peace of mind I will replace calipers discs and pads.

Many thanks once again. This is invaluable information for me.



You appear to have a 1/8" spacer for the front wheel. Not sure why, as you’re running OEM wheels.

Hi Kirbert

I hope you are well.

I am not sure what the spacer is or where it is.

Do I just need to remove or is there something else I need to do to rectify the problem.

Many Thanks


The spacer is the last item on your “to do” list for the time being, but here it is:

I also must point out that there apparently are no dust covers on the front wheel bearings. If that’s been the situation since 1994, those wheel bearings definitely need repacking and probably need replacing. Plus you need to install some dust covers! I found one on my '83 had been replaced with a non-OEM cover, that’s not difficult because it’s probably some standard size, but you have to be careful to find a suitable shape or it may interfere with the wheels fitting properly. In fact, you may end up needing those wheel spacers!

Thank you! My heart starts to beat again.:grinning: