There are some older posts that reference using the RENU
process available in the U.S. for refurbishing XK fuel
tanks. Does anyone have any feedback that they can share on
their results with the process? Any feedback either on-net
or off- net on tanks available from everybody’s friend in
San Diego, CA or elsewhere would also be welcomed. The tank
I have seems OK from a structure perspective but it has not
held fuel in 30 years and has a good amount of surface rust
inside.–
Pete Seredynski
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Pete;
I bought the first proper (correct) for the 120 DHC, non roadster, fuel
tank Jorge made… in fact, he used mine as the pattern.
The only “complaint” was the internal Pick-Up tube was not bent
correctly to allow the Brass Drain Plug with attached sediment screen to be
installed. A proper looking Brass Drain Plug did come with the fuel tank,
just no screen… I used a variety of pry bars and tools to carefully
rearrange the Fuel Pick-Up tube so it would fit down inside the screen and
so the drain plug/screen unit would not bind when removed/installed… There
was “just enough” tubing so it almost reached the bottom of the fuel tank
(the screened brass fuel plug has a “well” inside the center in case
sediment does filter thru the screen).
Also, the replacement tank is made of a heavier gauge steel, making the
fuel tank noticeably heavier than the stock tank…
Other than that, I am pleased with the quality of work on my tank…
Do keep in mind, I bought this tank about ten years ago.YMMV…
With respect to resealing a gas tank. about fifteen years ago, I bought
one of those reseal kits (from Eastwood, I believe), it required me to get a
quantity of Muriatic Acid (swimming pool acid, commonly found at home
improvement stores, swimming pool supply stores, etc.)… The process is
laborious, requires the acid wash, flushing with water, throw in some
lengths of chain, another acid wash, another flush, douche with Acetone
(also from home improvement store), another rinse THEN you can pour the tank
sealer into the tank and slowly turn the tank so the sealer evenly coats ALL
six sides on the inside of the tank… a twenty-four hour “cure” (I gave it
two days), then reinstall the fuel tank.
The fuel tank I did was a ten gallon Volvo tank… with several gallons
of water/acid, etc. in it, and waving it around like a madman, I thought my
arms were going to fall off before I got finished! Once you start, you
CAN’T quit until it’s completely done! A Twenty Gallon XK Tank would kill
mere mortals!!
Fortunately, I had the forethought to get the methanol compatible
sealer, (even tho we didn’t have alcohol laced gasoline at that time… Now
I cannot buy anything BUT the E-10 crap).
The sealer is still sealing my 122S Volvo’s fuel tank.
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Uncle Sard”
There are some older posts that reference using the RENU
process available in the U.S. for refurbishing XK fuel
tanks. Does anyone have any feedback that they can share on
their results with the process? Any feedback either on-net
or off- net on tanks available from everybody’s friend in
San Diego, CA or elsewhere would also be welcomed. The tank
I have seems OK from a structure perspective but it has not
held fuel in 30 years and has a good amount of surface rust
inside.Pete Seredynski
Pete,
I had RENU done to my XK-150 tank. The tank had a row of perforations and a
fair amount of internal rust. Additionally, I had spun out the threaded
brass adapter for the bottom plug.
They cleaned, repaired, and coated the tank using reinforcements where
necessary. A lifetime warranty completed the task. What kind of warranty
come with a new tank?
The reason I didn’t mind spending roughly the same money to repair rather
than replace, is that there is absolutely no question as to whether the tank
will fit. Also there are no stylistic differences.
No affiliation. Tank not installed yet.
Gene McGough
XK-150 FHC S834515DN
XJ6C II 1976----- Original Message -----
From: “Uncle Sard” pjsard@prodigy.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 3:31 PM
There are some older posts that reference using the RENU
process available in the U.S. for refurbishing XK fuel
tanks. Does anyone have any feedback that they can share on
their results with the process?
. . .Pete Seredynski
I went through the Eastwood process on the two tanks from my XJ6C as Charles
describes. Right up front I saw that I was not hoss enough to adequately
shake the tanks. I bolted each tank to a sheet of plywood, attached a pipe
floor base at the approximate center, a length of 1/2" pipe served as an
axle. A short length of square tubing held in a vise was rotational
support. Miscellaneous pieces of hardware to make everything work. I
considered a motor, but that added too many complications, not the least of
which was getting the speed right.
Initial treatment to knock the rust loose was to load a quantity of
Eastwood’s pyramid-shaped grinding media and hand crank for maybe a half
hour. Then change the angle of the rotational support and rotate some more.
The rest of the job was to do pretty much what they said.
Gene McGough
XK-150 FHC S834515DN
XJ6C II 1976----- Original Message -----
From: “Bishop13” Bishop-13@Texican.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 5:16 PM
…
With respect to resealing a gas tank. about fifteen years ago, I bought
one of those reseal kits (from Eastwood, I believe), it required me to get
a quantity of Muriatic Acid (swimming pool acid, commonly found at home
improvement stores, swimming pool supply stores, etc.)… The process is
laborious, requires the acid wash, flushing with water, throw in some
lengths of chain, another acid wash, another flush, douche with Acetone
(also from home improvement store), another rinse THEN you can pour the
tank sealer into the tank and slowly turn the tank so the sealer evenly
coats ALL six sides on the inside of the tank… a twenty-four hour “cure”
(I gave it two days), then reinstall the fuel tank.
The fuel tank I did was a ten gallon Volvo tank… with several gallons
of water/acid, etc. in it, and waving it around like a madman, I thought
my arms were going to fall off before I got finished! Once you start, you
CAN’T quit until it’s completely done! A Twenty Gallon XK Tank would kill
mere mortals!!
Fortunately, I had the forethought to get the methanol compatible
sealer, (even tho we didn’t have alcohol laced gasoline at that time…
Now I cannot buy anything BUT the E-10 crap).
The sealer is still sealing my 122S Volvo’s fuel tank.
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Uncle Sard”There are some older posts that reference using the RENU
process available in the U.S. for refurbishing XK fuel
tanks. Does anyone have any feedback that they can share on
their results with the process? Any feedback either on-net
or off- net on tanks available from everybody’s friend in
San Diego, CA or elsewhere would also be welcomed. The tank
I have seems OK from a structure perspective but it has not
held fuel in 30 years and has a good amount of surface rust
inside.Pete Seredynski
Pete,
I’m currently running my DHC with a “Jorge” tank probably built from
Charles’ original.
I was opting to weld up my own, but Ernie Wagner (rest his soul)
conspired with my wife and convinced her to give me the San Diego tank
for Christmas some time ago. I’ve had it operational for the last 3
years and about 10K miles. I think that Christmas was about 10 years
ago.
My one worry on the onset concerned the spare tire room. Since I have
steel disc wheels and at the time no way to check it as my car was
exceedingly rough. The comparison between the original (that I was able
to poke my fist through) and the gift looked workable. I put the tank on
the shelf and addressed other stuff.
All does tuck in OK. The pickup as Charles said doesn’t match up with
the drain plug screen, but I could not see the sense of trapping crap in
the tank. I put a suitable “filter trap” outboard the tank as well as a
fuel shut off before the pump. I thought about “coating” the inside of
the new tank, but I lost some confidence as similar “stuff”
coincidentally broke down in a motorcycle tank, although for unknown
reasons.
There a few subtle esthetic differences in the tanks, mainly “stamped
ribs” on the sides of the original as opposed to flat panels, but you
have to weigh their actual 'worth". I was not going to hammer them in,
had I proceeded to weld up my own. Getting the baffles in and the sender
collar dimple would have been a task in itself. The warranty is
attractive but if you opt for the California “can”, you can work on your
original and have a spare! Handy if you are concerned with “down time”
Regards,
Rick
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In reply to a message from Uncle Sard sent Wed 11 May 2011:
I bought a reproduction tank for my 120DHC from SNG Barrett
and am totally happy with it. It was made in England and could
be mistaken for a NOS unit. My original probably could have
been repaired but wouldn’t have been worth fixing for the
price of the new one.–
oldgas
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In reply to a message from Uncle Sard sent Wed 11 May 2011:
I used the Renu process…following all instructions, as others have
described. Lots of work…but worked well. Then used Por 15 anti
rust on the exterior. I also installed an inline fuel line
filter…clear so I can see into it.
I would add that using a gas additive water remover will
help…also…the Marine Stabil…will help remove water…and will
stabilize the fuel which can degrade rather quickly in low milage
use.
and…about once in two years…I drain the tank when fuel level is
low…(not inside the garage !!!)…using many precautions !!!
parked in the middle of the yard away from everything
electrical…etc…i loosen the drain til it leaks…and let the gas
slowly run out…then remove…flush a little with fresh gas…and
replace. I use only premium fuel, fill with what I will use soon,
and add a little techron, a little lead additive.–
Nick 53 XK120 OTS
near SpokaneWA, United States
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In reply to a message from Uncle Sard sent Wed 11 May 2011:
There seems to be two processes being discussed here. The
renu process on this side of the atlantic refers to a
professional restoration of the petrol tank whereby the tank
has a patch removed and the inside and outside of the tank
is then sand blasted to remove all rust. the patch, about
one foot square is then welded back in place . finally the
inside is then coated with a petrol resistant resin and the
outside is coated with a different resin. The tank is
garanteed for life. I got a tank from an xj done and was
very impressed wit h the result. It has been perfect for a
few years now. the process is franchised to different
companies. I got mine done by the NAR group in Northampton,
U.K. I have previously used the product from Eastwood for a
leaky tank and it survived for a few years before leaking
again. There is no comparison between the two.–
The original message included these comments:
There are some older posts that reference using the RENU
process available in the U.S. for refurbishing XK fuel
–
loftydaly
dublin, Ireland
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