Hi,
Has anyone refit the chrome surround on a 120 DHC window?
The parts catalog talks about BD1300, a rubber glazing strip
(everseal) that fits between the glass and the chrome surround.
I am trying to use a 1mm thick glazing rubber, which seems
to be ok, but it is quite difficult to fit the glass?
Any hint?
Otherwise, I might go the ‘‘easy’’ way with a rubber compound.
Thanks
Jean-Francois S677941–
Jean-Francois Huguet EType FHC 63 XK120 DHC 53
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Jean-Francois;
I have not done the 120DHC, but I have done a couple of
the Tri-Five Chevy’s door window glass to chrome frames…
NOT a job for the faint of heart!!!
After struggling with one glass and frame, trying to “press”
the glass into the frame with the new “Glass Setting Tape”,
the boss called a professional glass shop, a fellow came out,
I showed him what I was doing, he asked if I had a three
pound rubber hammer, I did, he took the rubber hammer in
one hand, held the glass PERFECTLY Vertical (on a wooden
work bench) with the other hand, and with the Chrome Trim
sitting atop the arrangement, he proceeded to whack the snot
outta the newly chromed trim!! I was going for his throat
when the chrome trim fully seated…
He did note that, in learning this technique, he broke his
share of both tempered and laminated automobile glass… He
strongly suggested obtaining some “old” unbroken door glass
“sets” (those with the chrome trim that fit some defunct
vehicle, carefully take the chrome trim off the “experimental”
set, then using new glass setting tape, practice refitting the
chrome trim… This way you can learn the “feel” of how much
“beating” an “on edge” piece of door glass will take before
breaking…
It should go without saying to wear heavy leather gloves AND
some serious eye protection… Have your local paramedic on
“Speed-Dial”, just in case ;-} (also, have some tranqulizers on-
hand, as well! ;-} )
Good Luck
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “J-Francois”
Hi,
Has anyone refit the chrome surround on a 120 DHC window?
The parts catalog talks about BD1300, a rubber glazing strip
(everseal) that fits between the glass and the chrome surround.
I am trying to use a 1mm thick glazing rubber, which seems
to be ok, but it is quite difficult to fit the glass?
Any hint?
Otherwise, I might go the ‘‘easy’’ way with a rubber compound.
Thanks
Jean-Francois S677941
Jean-Francois,
The “glazing strip” is rubber like. It is not rubber. It is installed
into the channel after it is wetted and softened with oil and put over
the edge of the glass The chrome surround is put on or pushed on over
the “U” strip with the glass inside. Any oil “ooze” can be blotted up
with paper towels. The assembly should sit a few days to allow the
glazing strip to swell and hold the glass fast in the frame. The excess
seal can then be trimmed with a sharp knife. The “key” to the proper
fittment is the thickness of the “glazing strip” and getting it assembled
before the stuff swells too much.
Regards,
Rick
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 08:11:56 -0800 “J-Francois” jfhuguet@free.fr writes:> Hi,
Has anyone refit the chrome surround on a 120 DHC window?
The parts catalog talks about BD1300, a rubber glazing strip
(everseal) that fits between the glass and the chrome surround.
I am trying to use a 1mm thick glazing rubber, which seems
to be ok, but it is quite difficult to fit the glass?
Any hint?
Otherwise, I might go the ‘‘easy’’ way with a rubber compound.
Thanks
Jean-Francois S677941Jean-Francois Huguet EType FHC 63 XK120 DHC 53
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.
http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2
I think that’s why they invented black RTV.
Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2> I have not done the 120DHC, but I have done a couple of
the Tri-Five Chevy’s door window glass to chrome frames…
NOT a job for the faint of heart!!!
In reply to a message from cb@XKTX.Org sent Thu 5 Nov 2015:
Charles and Rick,
Thanks for your advice. I am using a 1mm thick rubber band,
the kind of band that can be used at the bottom of a wire
wheel. I put some liquid hand soap but it remains quite
difficult. It may be that it is even more difficult in the
two bends. I tried to hit with a leather mallet ( the one we
use for wire wheels) but I may not have hit strong enough. I
am also using 2 ratchet straps to put some pressure but I am
also a bit nervous when adding a new click.
It may also be, as you suggest, that it should not be
rubber. Do you know what it is and where I could get the
right material?
When I looked for BD1300 on Barratt website, they suggested
to use BD33326/1 which they described as a 1.5mm glazing rubber.
I dont know if it is rubber, but, if it is, 1.5mm is far too
thick.
KInd regards
Jean-Francois
S677941–
Jean-Francois Huguet EType FHC 63 XK120 DHC 53
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Thu 5 Nov 2015:
First question, is 1mm thickness the optimal material for
this job? The factory most likely used a thickness specified
in inches. Does anyone know what that might have been?
Second observation, when I did similar work with a Mark V
windshield, I used dish soap to get it to slide together.
Third comment, the factory guy who did this job all day
every day probably had some sort of bench setup with screw
clamps, toggle clamps or even air clamps to push the chrome
into place on all sides at once. I could envision something
like the push/pull toggle clamps shown here:
a number of them attached to a table top in strategic places.
The home restorer doing only 2 windows could use nuts
c-clamped to a table and bolts with saddles to push on the
chrome.
Or try bar clamps.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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JF,
As I posted, the setting material is “rubber like” it is not rubber.
It is not like a windscreen gasket or windscreen gasket material.
It is somewhat fragile and has limited stretch!
You can probably get it from shops that cut and provide replacement
glazing for autos. If you explain that you are restoring an antique,
they will usually part with a few feet or the end of a roll for a small
price…
It does come in different thicknesses and it is usually about 2 inches
wide as the excess is trimmed after it sets.
Tell them that you are not trying to take away their business, but that
the antique frames are rare and irreplaceable.
Don’t try to use rubber! Setting tape is quite different!! You will
have to exert pressure for sure, but you shouldn’t need to “pound” on it.
Setting tape is currently used to affix the slotted metal that is part of
the “frameless” glazing in modern cars.
Take a piece of the SNGB “glazing rubber” that they sent, and coat it
with engine oil. If it starts to disolve and get slimey, turning your
fingers black, it’s real setting tape!!!
Try installing your glass with oil instead of soap. If it seems to work
but still refuses to work, the tape is too thick, and you need thinner
stuff.before you break something!
Regards,
Rick____________________________________________________________
Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.
http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2
In reply to a message from holland-rick@juno.com sent Fri 6 Nov 2015:
Rick,
Many thanks. I will be looking for the material that you
describe. It should work well with the right thickness.
I found a video on youtube describing a similar process on a
Chevrolet. Charles, it may be what you have done as well.
Kind regards
Jean-Francois S677941–
Jean-Francois Huguet EType FHC 63 XK120 DHC 53
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