XK 120 FHC steering box REBUILD

Hello All,
I’ve tried to dig up the previous threads on this, but since I’m a dinosaur on the computer, I haven’t found a direct link.
I’m in the midst of trying rebuild the entire front suspension on 680066 '52 FHC. So far, I’ve managed to remove the torsion bars, A-arms, etc… but have yet to tackle the LHD steering box, and it’s associated idler arm.
I am SO AFAID of dealing with my gorgeous steering wheel, and column in the perfect interior. But I realize that this all must be interupted for the job. My turn signal indicator is a bit sloppy, so now may be the time to attend to this?
Anyway, I’m looking for FIRST HAND advice on the FHC situation (other’s may be different?). I hope to tackle this job in the morning, so any and ALL input is appreciated.
Any tips on removing the steering box w/o a helper?

Fred, the basis for my question is ignorance, but do you need to remove the steering box? If turning the steering wheel with the front end jacked up does not reveal any binding, can’t the steering box remain in place while everything else is done? If you must remove the box in a FHC, it is a chore, at least it was in our fixed head. Best of luck.

I concur with Lewis. Do you absolutely have to remove the column? I did, on my 53 FHC, and if I remember correctly I had to disassemble a portion of the LH front suspension to get adequate clearance to thread the column out of the car. Once I did, I did clean and rebuild the box & column. Mainly new seals and new ball bearings in the race. THAT was quite something to reassemble! It took me four people holding things and I found a big help was to have the bearings packed in grease in the freezer to “stick” them into the assembly to assist holding everything together upon reassembly. And remember: you must use straight 140 weight oil in the box and in the opposite side box. Don’t use less, the race and column are too valuable to risk wear coming from use of a lighter or mixed weight lubricant.

Hi, I’m in the process of rebuilding the entire front suspension, so it is already off anyway. Turns out that this very original, low mileage car wasn’t that worn in the suspension dept, but we found a little play here & there whilst on the alignment rack after I bought her some new Blockley Tires (Tyres). The tires were such a hassle to get, and expensive, that I thought that I’d do the right thing, and get the front end aligned; hence the discovery of some “slightly” lose tolerances. I enjoy this car so much, that I figured I’d give it what it deserves.
The steering box was actually leaking (not a good thing when you stack cars on lifts above other cars).
It took ALL DAY just to get the large bolt that attaches the steering box trunion/mount to the frame! It fought me the whole way. Taking off the steering wheel, and the turn signals was the easy part! My inner fender panels were attached with the nuts on top. I would have figure them to be on the bottom. Does anyone know for sure on this?
I managed to get the column loose, but it appears that bakelite voltage regualtor or such is in the way of swinging out of the wheel well. I was too exhausted to pursue it any further today.
Many Thanks, RF.

Perhaps redundant: my experience (1954 XK120FHC) was that the box simply needed adjustment. I found it horrible when I first drove it, but frankly adjustment did a huge improvement. On the oil: I use red and tacky grease (Red 'N' Tacky vet - CafeRacerWebshop.com). No leaking, smooth action.

See Rob Reilly’s recent post in the front suspension thread, he sparked my memory; the key to removal of the steering column was the “third person to pull out on the fender” while extracting the column. Exactly my experience.