[xk] 120 Horn Knob

XK
1

I’d like to refinish the horn knob on my 120. It’s disassembled
from the manette control assembly. I’ve cleaned up and polished
the palstic surface, removed scratches, etc.

The black paint on the inside surface is almost completely gone- I
can repaint that, no problem. But some of the silvery coating on
the image of the jaguar head is also missing and I’m having a real
problem finding something to use to redo it.

I’m experimenting on a similar piece of plastic. I’ve tried
several paints including the ‘‘chrome’’ types, but none come anywhere
near the original shine. I think that the problem with paints is
that I’m painting on the ‘‘wrong’’ side of the plastic and the
metallic pigments tend to float making the side away from the
plastic the shiny one. So I’ve given up on paints.

But what about foil? I can lay a piece of high-shine aluminum foil
in there and it looks great, but I can’t find a glue that will let
me stick the foil to the plastic and not ruin the shine. I’ve been
searching the craft and hobby shops, but nothing so far.

Has anyone out there been down this road? I’d really like to save
this original knob if at all possible.

I’d appreciate any help,

Bruce Wright
#674699–
Bruce Wright XK120 OTS #674699
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

2

In reply to a message from Bruce Wright sent Fri 9 Oct 2009:

Bruce perhaps you could apply a thin coat of a clear epoxy glue
over the back side and around the outside edges of the foil this
would serve to stiffen it up and hold the concave shape at the same
time not damaging anything. Only a thought hope it helps.
Regards
Michael Sweeney
XK 120 OTS–
jagman
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

3

Bruce,

Try using lettering (sign) painters foil! It is extremely thin and is
pushed in place with a soft brush. Experiment with a thinned varnish for
an adhesive, the best non-yellowing kind the better.

Boat owners know the best sign painters around and I’ll bet you can get
both the supplies and advice from them. Many good arts/crafts shops
carry the stuff too.

Regards,

Rick____________________________________________________________
Blue Cross Health Plans
Quote & compare top health plans like Blue Cross, Aetna, and more!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=En491d0KCZyxncM5JaOWAwAAJ1DGrNcIfGwvGZUgVOVC0tOpAAQAAAAFAAAAALKW2T0AAANSAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAOGiQAAAAA=

4

In reply to a message from Bruce Wright sent Fri 9 Oct 2009:

Bruce.

Or… it’s the same as an early Mk V or Mk VII horn button. And
you could probably find one of those [ or a whole Mk VII ] pretty
cheap.

When I did my Mk VII I was able to obtain new horn buttons
relatively cheaply–
The original message included these comments:

I’d like to refinish the horn knob on my 120. It’s disassembled
from the manette control assembly. I’ve cleaned up and polished

–
Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

5

Bruce,

All I can tell you is that someone on this list has done it and written
about it. One of the old timers…can’t remember who. Typical amazing
detail and success. I recommend doing a search, but use horn “button”,
not knob.

Good luck,

Tom Carson
1954 XK 120SE OTS S674946
1962 3.8 Mark 2 MOD, chrome wires
Juneau, AlaskaOn Oct 9, 2009, at 9:24 AM, Bruce Wright wrote:

I’d like to refinish the horn knob on my 120. . …
Has anyone out there been down this road? I’d really like to save
this original knob if at all possible.

I’d appreciate any help,

Bruce Wright
#674699

Bruce Wright XK120 OTS #674699

6

Ed;
You must have re-done your MK VII back in 1960 for the Horn Push (Button)
to have been cheap AND new (assuming OEM)… The “modern” (read: Asian)
repops were about $80 when I bought mine (and it looked like crap! The
seller acknowledged that, when he had them made, the Jag Head was a cheap
plastic toy “charm” imbedded in the casting… The Jag head looked
positively rabid!)
Bill Tracy (NAYYY) is offering his version, on sale on eBay for $50.00
(no picture). Regularly $75.00 (USD).
I opted to use my original horn push… the “silver” Jag Head “mellowed”
over time (now has a golden hue-- looks neat!) and the three “heat cracks”
are internal, minor, and on the “6 O’clock” side (the horn push somehow got
rotated before I bought it).
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Ed Nantes”

When I did my Mk VII I was able to obtain new horn buttons
relatively cheaply

7

In reply to a message from Bruce Wright sent Fri 9 Oct 2009:

Yeah, OK, I should have said ‘‘button’’ not ‘‘knob’’, but happily you
all knew what I meant.

Many thanks for all of the suggestions. I’ll let you know how I
make out.

I do want to keep my original button. It’s got a fair amount of
patina, but it also has some sizeable bits of silver totally
missing and I don’t think that will look very good.

Just as an aside, I didn’t replace the vehicle ID plate either, but
just cleaned it up a bit and clear-coated it. I also didn’t polish
the emblem that’s on the bonnet above the grille. I really like
the way they both look, but no one would mistake them for new. I’m
hoping to get the same effect with the horn button.

Bruce Wright
#674699–
Bruce Wright XK120 OTS #674699
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

8

In reply to a message from BISHOP13 sent Sat 10 Oct 2009:

Charles, I was pretty happy with the one I bought in 1993.

Modern technology is now enabling us to home produce at home many
items that previously would have needed a factory.

An SS Register member here has played with modern casting rubber
moulds and plastics.
The finish is as good as the original it’s moulded from, and he’s
done horn buttons , manettes, gear lever knobs etc. The supplier of
the raw materials has a pigment to reproduce bakelite.

It can also be cast as a clear moulding for lenses, which he has
done and the old problems of UV damage seem to have been long cured.

I haven’t had the need to get clear plastic badges like the Mk
V.VII horn buttons and XK 140 badges done, as they are a bit modern
for what I have. But if needed to reproduce the metallic colours
applied to the back side, I’d speak to some one commercially
making that sort of thing and try and get some info on how they do
it.

The badge maker here gets vitreous enamel badges made in Tiawan
for SSs- Mk V for me and I have to say they are perfect.

They have great workers there but they do need guidance and a clear
explanation of exactly what you need. These would be people who
have never seen a car older than about 5 years.–
The original message included these comments:

You must have re-done your MK VII back in 1960 for the Horn Push (Button)
to have been cheap AND new (assuming OEM)… The ‘‘modern’’ (read: Asian)
repops were about $80 when I bought mine (and it looked like crap! The
seller acknowledged that, when he had them made, the Jag Head was a cheap
plastic toy ‘‘charm’’ imbedded in the casting… The Jag head looked
positively rabid!)

–
Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

9

Bruce,
Keep after it. I too have a couple medallions that could use a touch of
silver, or whatever it is.

Gene McGough
XK-150 FHC S834515DN
XJ6C II 1976----- Original Message -----
From: “Bruce Wright” brwri@aol.com

I do want to keep my original button. It’s got a fair amount of
patina, but it also has some sizeable bits of silver totally
missing and I don’t think that will look very good.

Just as an aside, I didn’t replace the vehicle ID plate either, but
just cleaned it up a bit and clear-coated it. I also didn’t polish
the emblem that’s on the bonnet above the grille. I really like
the way they both look, but no one would mistake them for new. I’m
hoping to get the same effect with the horn button.

Bruce Wright
#674699

10

Bruce,
I agree. You happened to strike an idiosyncratic nerve of mine. I may be far
into the minority, but I do not believe that an original I.D. plate should
be never be replaced with an new one, ( unless of course the original is too
far damaged or missing). No matter how perfectly and beautifully restored an
XK is, when I look at the original stampings on the factory’s plate, I can
really feel the sense of history associated with the car, more than any
other component. When I was finishing up my second restoration on the
roadster, it was concourse competitive, but that was one item that I would
not sacrifice for points.
As far as your hood emblem being mistaken for a reproduction, you needn’t
worry. If you’d like, you can polish it, because the brass-copper mixture is
all wrong on the repro’s and you can spot them a mile away. That’s why
originals, with enamel still in tact, are going for $ 400-500 and up on
Ebay, while reproductions are only $75 ;-)) Too much copper, I suppose, is
what gives them a rosey cast.
All the best,
Knight> ----- Original Message -----

From: “Bruce Wright” brwri@aol.com

Just as an aside, I didn’t replace the vehicle ID plate either, but
just cleaned it up a bit and clear-coated it. I also didn’t polish
the emblem that’s on the bonnet above the grille. I really like
the way they both look, but no one would mistake them for new. I’m
hoping to get the same effect with the horn button.

Bruce Wright
#674699

11

Knight,

You do not have to have to sacrifice the ID plate for points. A couple years
ago, for the reasons you stated, JCNA ruled that the number plate is not
judged for condition. If anyone deducts for a knackered number plate, grab
the rule book.

Mark Stephenson, Chief Judge
Jaguar Club of Central Arizona-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Knight Martorell
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 5:14 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] 120 Horn Knob

Bruce,
I agree. You happened to strike an idiosyncratic nerve of mine. I may be far

into the minority, but I do not believe that an original I.D. plate should
be never be replaced with an new one, ( unless of course the original is too

far damaged or missing). No matter how perfectly and beautifully restored an

XK is, when I look at the original stampings on the factory’s plate, I can
really feel the sense of history associated with the car, more than any
other component. When I was finishing up my second restoration on the
roadster, it was concourse competitive, but that was one item that I would
not sacrifice for points.
As far as your hood emblem being mistaken for a reproduction, you needn’t
worry. If you’d like, you can polish it, because the brass-copper mixture is

all wrong on the repro’s and you can spot them a mile away. That’s why
originals, with enamel still in tact, are going for $ 400-500 and up on
Ebay, while reproductions are only $75 ;-)) Too much copper, I suppose, is
what gives them a rosey cast.
All the best,
Knight

----- Original Message -----
From: “Bruce Wright” brwri@aol.com

Just as an aside, I didn’t replace the vehicle ID plate either, but
just cleaned it up a bit and clear-coated it. I also didn’t polish
the emblem that’s on the bonnet above the grille. I really like
the way they both look, but no one would mistake them for new. I’m
hoping to get the same effect with the horn button.

Bruce Wright
#674699

12

Mark,
That is great to know and I am pleased to hear that JCNA has accommodated
those as weird as I. It’s no longer a worry, however since my car has been
several miles since those days and it is no longer concourse competitive by
a long shot - Alternator, additional relays, ( hidden but not well enough),
new manufacture sports coil, burled walnut dash ( on an OTS), seat belts,
GPS, pusher fan, etc. etc. ;-))
But I couldn’t love it more !
All the best,
Knight----- Original Message -----
From: “Mark Stephenson” mark@jag-lovers.org
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 1:45 AM
Subject: RE: [xk] 120 Horn Knob

Knight,

You do not have to have to sacrifice the ID plate for points. A couple
years
ago, for the reasons you stated, JCNA ruled that the number plate is not
judged for condition. If anyone deducts for a knackered number plate, grab
the rule book.

Mark Stephenson, Chief Judge
Jaguar Club of Central Arizona

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf
Of
Knight Martorell
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 5:14 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] 120 Horn Knob

Bruce,
I agree. You happened to strike an idiosyncratic nerve of mine. I may be
far

into the minority, but I do not believe that an original I.D. plate should
be never be replaced with an new one, ( unless of course the original is
too

far damaged or missing). No matter how perfectly and beautifully restored
an

XK is, when I look at the original stampings on the factory’s plate, I can
really feel the sense of history associated with the car, more than any
other component. When I was finishing up my second restoration on the
roadster, it was concourse competitive, but that was one item that I would
not sacrifice for points.
As far as your hood emblem being mistaken for a reproduction, you needn’t
worry. If you’d like, you can polish it, because the brass-copper mixture
is

all wrong on the repro’s and you can spot them a mile away. That’s why
originals, with enamel still in tact, are going for $ 400-500 and up on
Ebay, while reproductions are only $75 ;-)) Too much copper, I suppose,
is
what gives them a rosey cast.
All the best,
Knight

----- Original Message -----
From: “Bruce Wright” brwri@aol.com

Just as an aside, I didn’t replace the vehicle ID plate either, but
just cleaned it up a bit and clear-coated it. I also didn’t polish
the emblem that’s on the bonnet above the grille. I really like
the way they both look, but no one would mistake them for new. I’m
hoping to get the same effect with the horn button.

Bruce Wright
#674699

13

In reply to a message from Bruce Wright sent Fri 9 Oct 2009:

Hi there,

Not in this case, but for scale models I have been a very
happy user of an American product called ‘‘Bare Metal Foil’’.

For 1:24, 1:32 and even 1:43 models I have used it for
chromed parts, even very thin parts like fitting and beads.

But it does have a sticky side which in your care would
again be the wrong side. IMO as it is very thin metal that
might not be an issue.

Just something you can google or ask from some serious model
shops. I’ve only had chrome but I think they had a gold and
silver finish too.

Cheers,
Pekka T.–
The original message included these comments:

I’d like to refinish the horn knob on my 120. It’s disassembled
from the manette control assembly. I’ve cleaned up and polished
the palstic surface, removed scratches, etc.
But what about foil? I can lay a piece of high-shine aluminum foil
in there and it looks great, but I can’t find a glue that will let
me stick the foil to the plastic and not ruin the shine. I’ve been
searching the craft and hobby shops, but nothing so far.
Has anyone out there been down this road? I’d really like to save
this original knob if at all possible.
I’d appreciate any help,
Bruce Wright

–
MKV 3.5L DHC, E-type 2+2 Ser.1 MOD, XJ6C MOD, XJ8 Executive
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

14

In reply to a message from ptelivuo sent Wed 14 Oct 2009:

Pekka,

Thanks for the suggestion.

I have tried ‘‘Bare Metal Foil’’, but the problem is as you guessed.
The adhesive is on the wrong side of the foil for my application so
the result is a cloudy, not-shiny look. Too bad, because the foil
itself looks great.

My latest effort is a foil material I’ve ordered from Dick Blick
(don’t you love that name?) art materials. It’s a similar foil,
but the adhesive comes separately in a bottle and it’s supposed to
be suitable for lettering as another lister suggested. We’ll see
how it turns out.–
The original message included these comments:

Not in this case, but for scale models I have been a very
happy user of an American product called ‘‘Bare Metal Foil’’.
For 1:24, 1:32 and even 1:43 models I have used it for

–
Bruce Wright XK120 OTS #674699
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –