I am installing a recored original radiator in a 1954
120 coupe. I ordered a ‘‘Radiator Mounting Kit’’ from one of
the vendors and now have 4 rubber pads 2.25’’ x 6.25’’ x
1/8’'thick. I assume these go underneath the radiator? Does
anyone know how it went originally? Also does the part
number C980 (drain tap) have a curved outlet to it? One
other thing, Xk’s sells a radiator drain panel in their
catalog, their part number 16-0889. I don’t see anything
like this in the Jaguar parts catalog. Does anyone know what
that is and is it original equipment?
Many thanks
Wes Keyes
York, Maine–
Wes Keyes
York Maine, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Weston Keyes sent Tue 5 Oct 2010:
Yes, the rubber pads go under the radiator in those saddles
and keep it from rubbing a hole in the bottom as it wiggles
around on those back country road trips.
My drain tap has a long curved down spout, and I have also
seen them with just a straight forward discharge hole.
The picture number on XKs website is wrong, #33 should be 30.
16-0889 is an aluminum panel that goes above the drain tap,
with just the handle sticking up through the slot. There
should be 3 screw holes in the chassis for it. I guess the
idea is to direct the flow down to the ground rather than
splashing out on your legs.
Mine was missing but I’d seen a lot of cars with it so I
bought one from Forrest Voges. I looked for it in the
factory parts catalog just now and couldn’t find it, and the
fact that XKs doesn’t use a C or BD number for it either
makes me wonder what the story is here. Perhaps yet another
mistake in J8, it should be in with radiator parts?
Referencing for 679526 with engine #W4509-8. I am getting a new radiator which I will install. I noted there is a drain panel16-0889 or XK Unlimited # 86-0889. There is not such an item on my XK. It makes sense that if there should be on that I install it when the time comes. There was no rubber pads under the radiator either which I will order the mounting kit C3718K to XK Unlimited # C3718.
Regarding the drain panel, how does this mount in relation to the radiator? Thanks for replies.
Wes, on my 1954 the drain tap is straight and ends in a nice hole. It’s perfect for use if you bend a piece of copper tube so that it loops around and down, preventing coolant from splAshing on the frame etc. then keep that tube in the tool box.
There has been quite a bit of discussion on the subject of block and radiator drain taps in the past on this forum.
XK120s used both the straight brass type and the plated type with the downturned nozzle which looks identical to the cylinder block drain tap. However, the spare parts catalogue gives two different numbers for these taps - C980 for the radiator and C2354 for the block. The reason for the different part numbers seems to be that the radiator tap thread is BSPP 1/4 x 19, and the block one is 1/2 x 20 UNF. I suppose the threaded boss on the brass radiator bottom tank benefits from a slightly coarser thread, whereas the cast iron of the block can take the finer UNF thread.
When the chageover from straight to downturned on the rad tap occurred, or which way round it happened, I’m not sure. Maybe they changed to the straight brass type to avoid people accidentally trying to fit an identical-looking block tap to the rad, or vice-versa? Just a guess…
I have the later straight radiator drain tap like John has. Mine has developed a slight leak, which I need to address. Does anyone have any advice for repairing these drain taps?
Hmm, I see this thread is from 11 years ago.
I had a different tap in mine back then.
There are a few varieties around, and we may not necessarily know which one Jaguar used at any particular time, or even whether they were bought separate or Marston supplied them with their radiators.
Here is a straight one.
They are very easy to disassemble by pulling out the brass split cotter pin.
Here is one with a down spout, on which the handle broke off and I had to make a new handle.
They are all brass, so to fix a leak you would take it apart and clean everything with soft Scotchbrite or Muriatic acid or Copperbrite or something, so the tapered plug and tapered hole are clean and matching.
The pass-through hole is in line with the handle. The oblong washer provides the open and closed stops. The spring is necessary to hold the tapered plug firmly down inside the tapered hole. The round washer keeps the cotter pin from being damaged.
i will guess the “closing panel” (my term) at the radiator base is to aid in air flow to radiator…easy to make one out of thin sheet metal, just mock it up in cardboard first… Nick
