To determine the difference between the early oil sump C.7313 and the later C.8592, is the only difference the front seal diameter and type? Is the part number stamped anywhere on the sump? I’m trying to purchase one and it is difficult to get a seller to specify which one they have.
Thank you,
Alan
Deleted…I was thinking 120…wrong car
Hi Alan.
Which are you looking for?
You are correct that the front seal is at least part of the difference.
The early sump is matched with the early timing cover, the C4820 block, gear oil pump and the asbestos rope seal.
The later sump is matched with the later timing cover, the C8610 block, rotor oil pump and the rubber ring lip seal.
There may be a difference in the location in the sump of the oil pickup tube, as I see the draftsman has drawn them differently, the later one much longer.
I don’t have a C7313 sump, but I have a C8592 sump for rubber ring seal and a cast aluminum sump from a Mark VII for rope seal to compare the seal grooves.
I’m offering the suggestion that the seal groove in the early C7313 sump might be the same as it was in the cast aluminum sump, to fit the asbestos rope seal.
The widths are the same .5", but the diameters and cut shapes are different. The diameter, (or you can measure across), is 2.625" on the rope seal groove, and 2.75" on the rubber ring seal groove.
Also I notice that the machine cut shape of the groove for the rope seal has rounded corners,
where the machine cut shape for the rubber ring seal is square cut corners.
I do not see a part number on either one.
Rob,
I’m looking for the later C.8592 sump for a 1955 FHC G6530. It currently has an early alloy sump (C.2359) from a XK120. I’m not sure what modifications were made to accept the alloy version. I am aware the the early sumps had different pumps.
I also do not know why, unless it was availability, why someone would have installed the earlier version.
Alan
G6530 is the engine serial number? Then it is a C8610 block.
Have you pulled off the sump yet?
Better check what you have for an oil pump pickup.
Post a picture of it.
I was hoping to locate the correct sump before removing the current one and then ascertain what I would need to do.
I will post photos when I remove it.
Thanks,
Alan
SNG offers a new seal for the front, that fits in the slot but is a modern lip seal.
I have not yet pulled the sump off, but Is it possible to use the later oil pump version with the earlier alloy sumps (C.2359)?
Alan
The C8592 sump has a baffle plate welded into place, with a screen basket, into which the oil pump pickup tube fits. The idea is that the oil inside that cavity should not slosh around, and always be available to be picked up by that tube.
The C2359 (straight bottom) and C2359/1 (stepped bottom) cast aluminum sumps have a baffle plate tray which is held in by 4 screws. There is also a baffle plate tray screwed to the bottom of the engine block, which contains the floating pancake oil pickup.
In order to use an earlier sump on your engine, one would have to be sure the oil pickup tube did not interfere with the screwed in baffle, or remove it, in which case you would have no baffling, and the oil would slosh around a lot. That is why it is a good idea to get the right sump.
2 Likes
Isn’t there a difference in oil capacity between early and late sump? My Viart book is downstairs and I’m about to sleep.
Correct me if wrong but I think, regardless of the sump’s capacity, the key factor is the oil level with respect to the engine block and its rotating parts. All of the dipsticks seem to have the same distances between the stop flange and the oil level marks. So, if we fill it up to the mark, it should be at the correct level. Just my dos centavos.
I have to correct myself. I cleaned my C2359/1 cast aluminum sump and discovered there is a part number cast into it. Unfortunately it is on the inside near the drain hole so that doesn’t help Alan.
But visually it is easy enough to identify.
So I cleaned my C.8592 sump looking for a part number, but no luck, it may have rusted away if it was there at all.
So Alan, you could ask the seller to measure the width of the front groove like this.
If it is 2-3/4" then it is probably right.
If it is 2-5/8" then it is probably the earlier sump C7313.
1 Like
I’ll forward that info to him. Apparently he has quite a few oil sumps.
Thx,
Alan
Continuing the thread from above:
[quote=“Raindog, post:4, topic:437801”]
I’m looking for the later C.8592 sump for a 1955 FHC G6530. It currently has an early alloy sump (C.2359) from a XK120. I’m not sure what modifications were made to accept the alloy version. I am aware the the early sumps had different pumps.
I have located a correct oil sump C.8592 for my engine no. G6530 (1955 FHC) and before I remove the existing alloy version (C.2359) to replace, I am curious how the difference in the seal diameter may have been overcome. I’ll deal with the pump issue after I remove.
Any insights would be appreciated.
Alan
I can think of 3 possible solutions a shade tree mechanic might do.
- cut a larger slot in the aluminum sump
- also replaced the timing cover with one from a 120 or Mark VII
- just crammed it in there being unaware of the difference
There’s not that much difference between the two. Later seal with rounded corners on the left, rope seal on the right.
Have you measured the diameters, Mike? I come up with a difference of 1/8" or 3mm.
What’s that one you show on the right from? I am only familiar with the 120 and 140, don’t know the later model aluminum sumps all that well.
XK120, C2359/1, step at the front, hole for the level sender, but with a blanking plate. I have 3 of them. I don’t know why. 
Something’s weird. I have two C.2359/1’s and both have rounded root grooves for the rope seal.
I was asking about your sump with the square cut root groove. That must be from a later car with the rubber seal. Also I notice the internal rib is a pyramid rather than rounded.
I beginning to think I should just leave the aluminum sump on. I may be heading into a Pandora’s Box.
1 Like