In reply to a message from Eric318 sent Thu 1 May 2014:
What’s your budget? What’s your goal? It is just time and
work and money and satisfaction.
How many miles are on it already?
What do the bearings look like?
Was there any metal in the bottom of the sump?
Is there any slack in the timing chain?
Are the tensioners worn?
Is there a ridge at the top of the cylinder bores?
Has it been rebuilt before?
Do you want this particular motor or would some other motor
do as well if it was in better shape?
What does it look like inside the water jacket?
Do you want to check the block for cracks?
I know I could use a rebuild myself, so these are all the
things I think about. I can’t tell you the answers though.
In reply to a message from Eric318 sent Thu 1 May 2014:
Certainly you should start with more disassembly and
cleaning of parts.
In addition to Peter’s list of questions, I’ll add a list of
the order in which I would spend your money.
complete gasket set
oil filter
core plugs
spark plugs, wires, distributor cap
piston rings (evaluate pistons for excessive wear on skirts,
replace if damaged on top)
connecting rod bearings (evaluate crankshaft for scoring and
possible regrind)
timing chains
timing chain tensioner pads
main bearings
distributor driven gear
evaluate piston bores, use Flex-hone for light cleanup (or
rebore for oversize pistons)
block cleaning
timing chain sprockets
distributor shaft bushing
No doubt I’ve forgotten something.
You may read about timing chain stretch. Its not quite a
true way of expressing it, what happens is there are
something like 100 links and if each link pin is worn .0001’’
the whole chain will be worn .010’’, each pin .0002’’ is .020’’
on the chain, and so on.
So keep at it and this forum will help.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Fri 2 May 2014:
I read a good tip somewhere on judging the wear of timing
chains.
Take it out and hold it up sideways and see how much it
droops. Each link has some slack, very little when new and
more with wear. As you hold the chain sideways the cumulative
slack results in droop.
No, I can’t tell you how much droop is ok, but you will get
some feel for it. Maybe find a new chain and hold that out
for comparison.
P.–
Peter J. Smith, 1966 3.8S MOD
Carson City Nevada, United States
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In reply to a message from Eric318 sent Thu 1 May 2014:
You need to strip more …
If no bore lip and you can see a crosshatch pattern in the
bores you could forgo piston removal if it passes the ‘raw
gas in the bore test’ that will give you an indication of
the rings condition. But no matter what the oil pump should
be stripped and inspected and the main and rod bearings
inspected for wear [if oversized marked you know its been
rebuilt before] the dist.oil pump gear is ok ‘just check for
burrs’
REMOVE THE CHAINS AND REPLACE.along with the guard rails/and
adjuster. Black hammerite paint will work good.
I wanted to close the loop on this thread after so many years.
It turned out that the block was cracked between every . single . cylinder !!!
I will soon start dismantling my second engine (other thread).
If anyone needs s/h engine parts… Timing cover anyone? If not it will all go to recycling or scrap.