I recently remove the head with the engine in place inorder to
clean, inspect and replace the head gasket. I can’t help think that
I should replace the studs. Unfortunitly I can’t seem to get them
to budge using the double nut approach. The studs don’t look real
bad, caked rust in the top threads and surface rust. I’m wondering
if I should leave them alone or does using a cam type stud removal
tool work better?–
Dave Salter— 1970 XKE 4.2 Series II OTS
Phildelphia,PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Dave Salter sent Mon 23 Jul 2007:
I recall from a discussion here, maybe 2 years ago, there are two
kinds of studs, the later ones pass deep into the block and someone
said that if one broke off you could get access to it through the
freeze plug holes.
I gave me the shivers just reading about it.
Meantime, put some pentrating oil on the studs, maybe they will
loosen up for you.
P.–
Peter J. Smith, 1966 3.8S, former 67 MGB
carson city nevada, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from Dave Salter sent Mon 23 Jul 2007:
The cam type stud tool is the way to go. It eliminates the
torsional twist the double nut method has. Since your studs go into
the main webbing, I would pop a freeze plug and shoot some PB
Blaster or penetrating oil at the base. You may even try the cam
type tool with an impact gun set at the lowest torque, to help
shock them loose. Where you want to check them is down in the water
jacket. If they look good, I’d leave them alone.
Joel–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc, '97 XJ-6
Denison, TX, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from Dave Salter sent Mon 23 Jul 2007:
Even fairly corroded studs are still pretty strong - there is
redundant metal and the weakest point of any threaded fastener is
usually the minor diameter of the screw thread. So provided none of
your pitting is deeper than the threads you are probably OK.
There’s no question the ideal route is to remove and inspect, but
if you managed to get the head off OK and there are no major signs
of coolant neglect (running on water instead of coolant mix is
where the corrosion comes from) they are probably OK. Unless you
are going to work the engine hard you should be fine to leave them
alone and use proper coolant in future to prevent worsening.–
Peter Crespin 66E, 76 DD6 Coup�, 84 DD6, 85 XJS 5sp convert
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Tue 24 Jul 2007:
Ok, I got my hands on a cam stud removal tool and it worked
perfectly. Much better than the double nut method which wasn’t
working at all. I pulled 3 studs easily and the bottom threads
looked very good. They were clean with no rust at all. Thanks for
the help.–
Dave Salter— 1970 XKE 4.2 Series II OTS
Phildelphia,PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from Dave Salter sent Tue 24 Jul 2007:
Just be very careful replacing them Dave. It is normal for some
crud to fall down into the blind hole in the block and you will end
up with a stud that does not go all the way back in.
You now probably need to remove the adjacent core plug and
meticulously clean out the relevant stud hole if you see the stud
is not level with the appropriate others when you replace it (the
exact installed height varies depending on location).
Failure to do this can lead to stripped block threads, which is a
very awkward thing to fix, or a head nut which will bind on the end
of the stud before it has fully tightened down. This will either go
unnoticed and fool you into thinking the head is properly torqued
when it isn’t (head gasket trouble in store) or you will realise
what has happened and have to put extra washers under the nut to
give clearance inside the acorn and pray the block threads don’t
let go from the stud being part way out (you may get away with it,
but the packing won’t look pretty). Either way, I wouldn’t pull any
more studs if the first few checked out fine. Just use proper
coolant from now on…–
The original message included these comments:
working at all. I pulled 3 studs easily and the bottom threads
looked very good. They were clean with no rust at all. Thanks for
the help.
Good advice Peter. I made a thread cleaner a few years back and it’s amazing
how often in comes out of the tool box. I welded a 7/16 NF tap to a 3/8"
cold rolled rod 10" long with a ‘T’ handle on top. After cleaning out the
rust and crud, a blow gun tool with a 1/4" metal tube for a nose works great
to get the loose swarf out of the hole just before reinserting the head
stud.
In reply to a message from Bob Grossman sent Wed 25 Jul 2007:
Another way to clean out the swarf is get a 1/4’’ piece of copper
tubing, bend the end (about 3’’), stick the straight part in the
hole, and use your air gun to blow across the bent end creating a
vacuum in the tube. I use this method when I want to make sure the
debris doesn’t go where it shouldn’t be.
Joel–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc, '97 XJ-6
Denison, TX, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from ex jag sent Wed 25 Jul 2007:
On a related note, in case it happens to anyone else, I was once
forced to replace a stud that came out while the engine was still
in service with no intention of a rebuild. In this case the problem
was coolant rather than crud filling the hole, which would have
caused an hydraulic lock and made proper tightening of the stud
next to impossible.
I just cut a groove lengthways, the width of the hacksaw blade,
into the stud threads, to allow the coolant to come out from below
the stud end in the blind hole. Not a major stress raiser and not a
huge decrease in thread interlock area and it went in a treat, all
the way down, first time of asking.–
Peter Crespin 66E, 76 DD6 Coup�, 84 DD6, 85 XJS 5sp convert
Cambridge, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Wed 25 Jul 2007:
Here is another suggestion if your block is still in the car or you
don’t want to or can’t remove the freeze plugs. I was able to fit
a piece of copper tubing attached to some clear pvc tubing which I
connected to my shopvac. You can see fairly decently down through
the water openings in the top of the block using a mag light. Send
the cooper tubing down the stud hole to suction the hole. The small
peice of flexible clear pvc tubing makes it easier to manover the
copper tubing and you can also visual see the stuff you getting.
This isn’t the way to go if you have a real mess down there but it
works for a relative clean water jacket.
I got a nice clean, dry stud hole. You can also attach the copper
pipe and pvc tubing to and air hose to blow out the hole.–
Dave Salter— 1970 XKE 4.2 Series II OTS
Phildelphia,PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from Dave Salter sent Tue 24 Jul 2007:
…And when you’ve cleaned out the 3 holes, use a botomming tap
(welded to a rod as Bob Grossman suggested) to chase the threads to
the bottom, then blow/vacuuam the holes out again…–
345 DeSoto
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –