When I come down a long hill on compression and then stop at the
light, I burn a lot of oil taking off from the light. I do not
notice burning oil any other times.
Not A LOT of oil, but noticeable, blue, annoying.
Would you suspect valve guides or rings, and why?
P.–
Peter J. Smith, 1966 3.8S, former 67 MGB
carson city nevada, United States
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I had the same thing on an old Volvo and it was worn valve guides. Lots of
smoke in the exhaust using the engine as a brake. With the throttle closed
I guess the engine tries to drawin from where ever it can.
Of course if your valve guides are worn that much…what condition would the
rings be in??
Gary
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My money’s on the valve guides too, Peter. I can give you a procedure for
testing for ring problems if you contact me off-list.
George
"When I come down a long hill … and then stop at the
light, I burn a lot of oil taking off from the light. I do not
notice burning oil any other times.
Not A LOT of oil, but noticeable, blue, annoying.
Would you suspect valve guides or rings, and why?.."
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In reply to a message from George Morrell sent Thu 10 Aug 2006:
Valve guides, or valve stem seals. Even a guide within tolerance
will allow oil to pass when the engine is warm and subjected to
high vacuum if the seals are worn, installed incorrectly or non-
existent. The '66 did not originally come with valve seals, but may
have been installed at the time of its last valve job. If the
spring seats, valve keepers and spring retainers were not upgraded
to the later model ones, the seals will not work properly and can
actually ‘‘pump’’ oil down the guide. I know this because my '66 4.2
was smoking like yours, using about a qt. every 200 miles. I took
off the cam cover on the intake and removed the valve spring. Sure
enough there were valve stem seals with the original valve
hardware. I replaced the hardware and installed new seals. No more
smoke, and I go through a qt. of oil every 800 to 1000 miles. If
you check the archives, it will give you the procedure of how to
remove the valve springs without removing the head. You should be
able to do the whole job, including a valve adjustment in half a
day. The only specialty tool you will need is a lever type valve
spring compressor, and you can pick one up from NAPA for about $50.
The valve hardware can be a bit pricey if you buy it new. I got
mine for free off of an old V12 before the owner put a chain on it
to use as a boat anchor. Fortunately all the later XK engines and
V12s all used the same valve hardware, so if you search around you
should be able to find what you need for a song.
Joel–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc
Denison, TX, United States
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