[xk-engine] Right Stuff instead of gasket?

I was replacing the gasket on my sump, and it tore. Rather
than get another cork one, I was thinking of just using
Permatex Right Stuff. They say it eliminates the need for
gaskets. Has anyone had any experience using this instead of
a sump gasket? TIA
Joel–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc, '97 XJ-6
Denison, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from ex jag sent Sun 23 Jun 2013:

Be careful you don’t end up with excess crush on the front
seal. The sump gasket is thick and the lack of one may
result in out-of-round forces on the seal exterior,
causing poor contact between the lip and the spacer. If
the engine is out of the car it’s easier to see.

Pete–
1E75339 66 D, 885958 62 FHC,1R27190+1R28009 70FHCs, 1960 Mk9
Gaithersburg, Maryland, United States
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Mon 24 Jun 2013:

Pete
That was my concern as well, but the cork gasket supplied by
XKs is very thin (which is why it tore). The original gasket
was paper, and about the same thickness as the cam cover
gaskets. I’d better do some measuring to make sure the front
seal doesn’t get crushed. Thanks.
Joel–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc, '97 XJ-6
Denison, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from ex jag sent Sun 23 Jun 2013:

My sump leaks along one side at just over 1000 miles on a
professional rebuild. Gasket was a Payen. All the bolts seem
to be torqued evenly at just under 20ft/lbs.

Given that sort of performance, I’d not hesitate to chuck
the standard gasket and make one up with one of those gasket
maker compounds. I did my coolant manifold (the one at the
front of the xk120 intake manifold) out of that stuff
(Permatex brand), and it is holding up fine. The one thing
I’ve heard is to try to avoid copious amounts of squeeze-out
so you don’t end up plugging an oiling hole somewhere.

I may pull my leaking sump and redo it with that Permatex
stuff as I just can’t deal with yet another oil leak. . .

I don’t believe these XK engines have to leak from
everywhere if one applies a bit of care and intellgence when
putting them together.–
John
Boston, MA, United States
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In reply to a message from John sent Mon 24 Jun 2013:

Since I started using the gasket, + Permatex non-hardening
on the surface I want to ‘‘stick’’, + grease on the side I may
wish to remove, and torque wrench, I have no oil leaks.

both surfaces must be checked for dings or scratches

works great for cam covers, they can be taken on and off, at
will, just leave the gasket in place!

I prefer the paper gaskets, and make my own very quickly if
needed.

rolls come in various thickness, and long enough to make a
sump gasket. Cost $5–
The original message included these comments:

I’ve heard is to try to avoid copious amounts of squeeze-out
so you don’t end up plugging an oiling hole somewhere.


Tony
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I use the paper gasket with a skim of silicone on both sides and oil on both
surfaces. That way the gasket conforms to any surface irregularities but
can be easily removed.

Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2

Since I started using the gasket, + Permatex non-hardening
on the surface I want to ‘‘stick’’, + grease on the side I may
wish to remove, and torque wrench, I have no oil leaks.

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